Ohlins R&T Spring/Sway Choice

[K-Dawg]

I went from 550/600 to 300/600 (by simply swapping the front TCK 550s with TCK 300s, no other changes) and comfort is significantly improved. The car is far more settled, so handling feels better also. The front is a little lower with the 300s vs the 550s, so I need to make some adjustments to get ride height back up where it was.

[Mayan-Viking]

Dinan's springs are flat ride with zero effort.

I think you may think flat ride is something different than it is-- flatride is having higher frequencies in the rear than the front.

Thank you for that, I didn't know Dinan qualified as flat ride. Glad I know that. Just when I thought my decision was made (Dinan + Koni Yellow) I find these. Does anyone know how these shocks (tuned by Dinan and 2X in price) compare to the standard Koni Yellows when matched with Dinan springs? Specifically, are they twice as good?

Thanks for everyone's help with knowledge sharing thus far.

[r4dr]

Thank you for that, I didn't know Dinan qualified as flat ride. Glad I know that. Just when I thought my decision was made (Dinan + Koni Yellow) I find these. Does anyone know how these shocks (tuned by Dinan and 2X in price) compare to the standard Koni Yellows when matched with Dinan springs? Specifically, are they twice as good?

Thanks for everyone's help with knowledge sharing thus far.

Same exact dampers. Search around for the Dinan settings on here, they're posted somewhere. Save yourself some cash.

[Mayan-Viking]

Same exact dampers. Search around for the Dinan settings on here, they're posted somewhere. Save yourself some cash.

That's what I was wondering exactly. I have the settings written down. Thanks much!

[cobra]

That's what I was wondering exactly. I have the settings written down. Thanks much!

I wouldn't buy the konis again.

[lvm3sm46]

I wouldn't buy the konis again.

Thats what you are going to leave us with? What would you go with instead?

[Mayan-Viking]

Thats what you are going to leave us with? What would you go with instead?

Yeah. Was thinking the same. Just when I thought I had this issue sorted...

[cobra]

Thats what you are going to leave us with? What would you go with instead?

I mean the koni shocks aren't bad but I feel like there's better options out there. The koni are a huge pain in the ass to adjust and the damping isn't quite dialed for performance driving. It's more of a comfort tune I think.

Id look at pss10 if I was buying now

[Obioban]

I mean the koni shocks aren't bad but I feel like there's better options out there. The koni are a huge pain in the ass to adjust and the damping isn't quite dialed for performance driving. It's more of a comfort tune I think.

Id look at pss10 if I was buying now

If you want easy of shock adjustment, you can buy top adjustable Koni yellows from TCK for the rear (normal Koni yellows are already top adjustable up front).

PSS10s means you're on coilovers, which for most people means they end up downgrading their handling (don't corner balance, set the ride height so it it doesn't work well, etc). PSS10s in particular don't like to be lowered much below stock... and they'll ride worse than a Dinan/Koni setup.

I'm not saying Konis are the be all/end all by any means, just that... what you're suggesting is not "better"-- it's a different set of trade offs.

Anyone know what the PSS10 spring rates are?

edit:

Bilstein supplies springs with a mild, street-favorable rate of 340lb in the front and a rear progressive rate up to 565lb.

^not flat ride.

[cobra]

If you want easy of shock adjustment, you can buy top adjustable Koni yellows from TCK for the rear (normal Koni yellows are already top adjustable up front).

PSS10s means you're on coilovers, which for most people means they end up downgrading their handling (don't corner balance, set the ride height so it it doesn't work well, etc). PSS10s in particular don't like to be lowered much below stock... and they'll ride worse than a Dinan/Koni setup.

I'm not saying Konis are the be all/end all by any means, just that... what you're suggesting is not "better"-- it's a different set of trade offs.

Anyone know what the PSS10 spring rates are?

edit:

^not flat ride.

I would definitely choose top adjustable Koni rears if I did it again. IIRC I got Dinan springs and Koni dampers as a package deal from Dinan for $900 so it was a pretty reasonable deal.

If someone gets PSS10 and sets the spring perches to equal heights, then there's no difference between that and bolting on a fixed damper. It's just that you then have the option to corner balance if needed. I like the architecture of the PSS10 over the Koni.. they are pressurized monotubes vs twin tube, and the front is inverted which is superior. The convenient adjustment is nice even if it is changing compression and rebound at the same time.

Those spring rates look like 1.91-1.94Hz front and rear which looks pretty balanced to me. I wonder what the rear initial spring rate is. 565 seems low for a final rate (would be softer than stock).

Anyway, the Billies are also twice the cost of the Koni kit so that's definitely a factor haha. I've had my Konis for like 8 years now and they're perfectly fine for 90% of driving.

[S14]

I really think the stock set up performs really well but this is my first performance car so I have no experience.

Then why are you changing it?

[Mayan-Viking]

If you want easy of shock adjustment, you can buy top adjustable Koni yellows from TCK for the rear (normal Koni yellows are already top adjustable up front).

So...are Koni yellows normally not (top) adjustable in the rear? Is there a specific set that conventional wisdom says works best with Dinan? Not trying to belabor the point. But I don't want to miss anything.

[Slideways]

I am by no means well versed in suspension but I try my best. My current setup is ohlins r&t with stock ohlins springs, stock sways, GC street camber plates, 3DM ohlins strut spacers. Personally, I think they ohlins are beautiful and I don't really have any complaints, but my fear is that I might unknowingly be forgoing additional comfort and performance by not trying out some different spring options.

Without access to corner weighting my car, I can only really guess for what the weight would be. But to be honest, from what I can see from others it seems most people end up at around the 325-375lb/in range anyway. Seems a safe bet to aim for 350 front and run the stock ohlins spring in the rear. If anyone does want to guess weights, my M3 is close to no options with the exceptions being xenon headlights and power seats (which have been replaced with recaro PP ABE's on manual sliders). With regards to spring length, is the stock ohlins spring length of 7" optimal? If I understand correctly, simply slapping in a lower rate spring in the front will throw the front roll couple off and require a stiffer front sway. For the purpose of seeing if the exercise is worth while, is it sufficient that I just remove the rear sway (I recall Ian saying something to this sentiment)?. That way if I'm unimpressed I can quit while I'm ahead only having bought a couple springs, and if I am I can go down the rabbit hole of getting different sways/rear springs etc.

Did you end up finding a good option for softening the front spring rate on the Ohlins R&T while maintaining the stock Ohlins rear springs?

It would be nice to find something that will work with the setup below and replace only the front springs and front sway bar:

13.5" F 13.0" R ride height
TMS Street Camber Plates with 2.5" spring perch
Ohlins strut spacer

I'm guessing a 2.5" 325lbs 8" long front spring is needed with a TMS front sway bar to get it near or at flat ride while improving ride quality on bumpy roads. The one concern is spring bind with a 325lb 8" long spring or tire contact with the top of the plastic liner.

[Tbonem3]

I ran a 7" 325lb 2.5" eibach spring that *just* let me get down to 13.5" ride height (though that's more a consequence of lower spring perch position on strut) AND it never bottomed out (zip tie trick). My MCS is threaded quite far down, so you could def run a 8" probably more if you wanted, but I though ohlins struts didn't go as far down, so I'm not sure if an 8" will allow you to sit at your desired ride height.

Anyway, in re Ohlins, I'm now running the rear ohlins spring/perch (628lbs) and I LOVE it. Very firm, but not harsh at all, no noise. I even went up a steep driveway the other day that would normally cause my rear springs to "pop" on their perch. The ohlins perch, with rubber donut underneath, didn't move or make any noise. I'm at 13.2" back there and can now bomb through road imperfections and dips without a care in the world, no bottoming/scraping. This is with 343lb up front at 13.5" height. Very satisfied and my journey is done. Other important factor in re flat ride, is a hotchkis bar set on medium.

[repoman89]

13.5" F 13.0" R ride height
TMS Street Camber Plates with 2.5" spring perch
Ohlins strut spacer
.

I have this exact setup. 325 lb/in 7.5” length / 2.5” diameter front springs with the TMS street plates and their spring mount. 13.7/13.2” F/R ride height, corner balanced last spring and tracked a handful of times since then.

I think the springs are Vogtlands … German brand, found on ebay. Their specs suggest they have plenty of travel to avoid spring bind