Benefits of running THE flap?

[Bry5on]

You could run "9,10,15" in this scenario, which I believe is meant to draw air from below the car/outside engine bay when the flap is closed.
As said above - for main snorkel intake, could run an Eventuri scoop or piece of ducting to connect with the hole in the top of the brake duct.

Bumping an old thread here, but I did route most of the CSL piping in my M wagon which uses the ZHP bumper and similar front ducting to the non-CSL M3. I used parts 9 and 10 and cut a window (a little too much) into the brake duct. The window left a bit of a gap, so I added a piece of sheet plastic to close it out a little tighter. It works well with my plastic non-m brake duct mount. No problems with it after a few thousand miles and I love the stealth sound of the flap closed while driving around town. That and I could swear there's a little more torque between 2-3k. No proof of that though!

Some (okay, a lot of, and a bit out of order) photos of the routed ducting, as I would have loved all of these before I started:

[Cubieman]

Very cool

[0-60motorsports]

The rubber seal around my CSL Intake flap has deteriorated and disappeared. There is no separate replacement and only option is to replace the complete snorkel.

I wonder if anyone had the same issue here and what they did to solve it minus removing the flap.

[Slideways]

The rubber seal around my CSL Intake flap has deteriorated and disappeared. There is no separate replacement and only option is to replace the complete snorkel.

I wonder if anyone had the same issue here and what they did to solve it minus removing the flap.

Can you post a picture of the seal?

[0-60motorsports]

Can you post a picture of the seal?

Here you go. You can see the seal around the flap has deteriorated and fallen off.

[Cubieman]

Also, look on page 2, I got a decent picture of the seal from the other side of the flap.

[Slideways]

0-60motorsports You'd have to find some sort of flexible trim edge seal online and fit it to the flap. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEIGNER-Ru.../dp/B06XKJ21NG

[0-60motorsports]

0-60motorsports You'd have to find some sort of flexible trim edge seal online and fit it to the flap. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/STEIGNER-Ru.../dp/B06XKJ21NG

Oh yeah that would be great. That particular one is pretty big. Would have to be something else really small in height like 3-5mm

[kook]

Bumping an old thread here, but I did route most of the CSL piping in my M wagon which uses the ZHP bumper and similar front ducting to the non-CSL M3. I used parts 9 and 10 and cut a window (a little too much) into the brake duct. The window left a bit of a gap, so I added a piece of sheet plastic to close it out a little tighter. It works well with my plastic non-m brake duct mount. No problems with it after a few thousand miles and I love the stealth sound of the flap closed while driving around town. That and I could swear there's a little more torque between 2-3k. No proof of that though!
Some (okay, a lot of, and a bit out of order) photos of the routed ducting, as I would have loved all of these before I started:]

The hole that'd needed to be drilled looks like it pretty much lines up right next to the serpentine belt. I'm just wondering how did you get a drill in there to drill the hole for the mount?
I'm getting to ready to put this pipework onto my car and an OEM CSL bumper at the same time, and hopefully without the need to remove the radiator.

[Bry5on]

The hole that'd needed to be drilled looks like it pretty much lines up right next to the serpentine belt. I'm just wondering how did you get a drill in there to drill the hole for the mount?
I'm getting to ready to put this pipework onto my car and an OEM CSL bumper at the same time, and hopefully without the need to remove the radiator.

Yep it’s right on the belt. Remove the belt, and a slim or 90 degree drill fits right between the pullies to drill the hole and crimp the nutsert

[kook]

Yep it’s right on the belt. Remove the belt, and a slim or 90 degree drill fits right between the pullies to drill the hole and crimp the nutsert

Thanks Bry5on, looks like it's time for me to buy a new slim or right angle drill. At least I know you can get in there without removing a whole lot of other stuff. Thanks for the info 👍

[thegenius46m]

I guess it's for bringing in air when the flap is closed. It's a hole on the bottom right behind the junction between the airbox and the flap housing.



Just CNCed a little piece of HDPE and siliconed it in place haha.

Edit: IIRC Karbonius actually has caps specifically for this purpose, but I didn't want to wait for one in the international mail.

Has anyone successfully ordered one of these caps from Karbonius? Not seeing it listed on their website.

[SUPREM3///]

Has anyone successfully ordered one of these caps from Karbonius? Not seeing it listed on their website.

Has this ever been figured out?

Just CNCed a little piece of HDPE and siliconed it in place haha.

Edit: IIRC Karbonius actually has caps specifically for this purpose, but I didn't want to wait for one in the international mail.

Hoping someone could post the diameters/size of the inlet by chance? Save me from having to pull mine and check - calling for snow in Denver lol

I was looking at ordering something like this - RN (mocap.com)