The new engine is in, crank no start

[Arith2]

So I finally got everything buttoned up on my car. Everything is together and ready to go... Except it doesn't start. I get an occasional combustion but it's not starting. I had the battery on a trickler but lead acids hate not being used.

Right now I'm thinking expired gas. It has been sitting since June and I had about 1/6 of a tank. Thankfully there's so little gas in it so new gas can mix in and I can get closer to finding the problem.

Once that doesn't work, I'm going to possibly look at a bad CKP or something. I'm using INPA and google translate so I'll look at the data tomorrow. Another weird thing that keeps happening is when the key is on, the rear heater valve solenoid, crankcase breather solenoid, and the suck pump solenoid by the master cylinder are heating up a lot. Is there something in common that tests these? I hear a clicking from what sounds like is behind the master cylinder. The car definitely didn't have the issue before.

Unrelated code is the oil lever sensor active signal. Probably was a bad sensor already but maybe this means something.

[ethan]

Can't really speculate with the information provided. Checked fuel pressure, spark, ICV/TBs, and compression?

Edit: No codes from cam/crank position sensors?

Edit again: No EWS issues?

[Arith2]

Can't really speculate with the information provided. Checked fuel pressure, spark, ICV/TBs, and compression?

Edit: No codes from cam/crank position sensors?

Read codes through INPA and only oil level sensor
All plugs are OEM and new. All coils tested with good resistance(for whatever that is worth), I didn't even think of the ICV. I definitely plugged it in. Fuel pressure was expected to take time to build up. Maybe I need to crank it more. Eventually I'll get it to start.

What's really weirding me out are those solenoids heating up.

[ethan]

I vaguely remember the heater solenoid getting hot to the touch on a cold engine, but can't comment on the other two. Is your car MK60? I've heard internal valves of some sort click in accessory in my MK60 before.

Intermittent combustion makes me think you have spark, but pull a coil and put a spark tester in it just to be sure.
Also leads me to believe you have fuel getting into the cylinders, but you should at least check fuel pressure off the Schrader valve.

Did you build and time the engine yourself? If not, have you verified cam timing with the OE tool using the Beisan procedure? Make sure that's right before you perform a compression test.

[Arith2]

I did retime it because a put my built vanos and sprockets on the new engine. What would the typical degrees of the cams look like if the engine is off?
yeah it's a mk60

[ethan]

No offense (and assuming you're not trolling), but if you timed it yourself and you're not sure how to verify the timing, then I suggest you take another look at the Beisan guide.

[Arith2]

No offense (and assuming you're not trolling), but if you timed it yourself and you're not sure how to verify the timing, then I suggest you take another look at the Beisan guide.

I'm not asking how to time the engine. I'm asking what the camshaft position sensor will read in INPA degrees wise. When the engine shuts off because technically my engine did, the cams are sitting at 50° or so right?
I'll have to aquire a spark tester somehow. School is physically closed so I can't just borrow one.

[ethan]

Gotcha. Not sure about the shutdown positions on stock cams/stock tune offsets (IIRC the exhaust cam gets maxed or something), but you might also not be getting there anyway if you're not building full oil pressure (just spinning the motor with the starter). I say check the timing and get back to us. Good luck!

[Arith2]

Gotcha. Not sure about the shutdown positions on stock cams/stock tune offsets (IIRC the exhaust cam gets maxed or something), but you might also not be getting there anyway if you're not building full oil pressure (just spinning the motor with the starter). I say check the timing and get back to us. Good luck!

The timing was checked with the BMW bridge. Went through both. The car should start even with a faulty CMP, if it was bad. I should probably look elsewhere than timing and cams thinking about it. The easiest solution is bad fuel. I'm also checking the battery voltage in the morning because this whole thing could be that. It was was 12.55 when I checked it last but it had been on the trickle charger. I want to see what it does overnight.

Oh and none of the coils have an open or are shorting from primary to secondary. If it is spark, there's a good chance it isn't a coil. Resistance was all .8 ohms

[jbfrancis3]

I'm with you on the fuel. You're probably trying to the run the engine on a good amount of water which has been pulled in by the ethanol, and now occupies the bottom of your tank. I don't think its worth checking anything further until you pull the rear seat, partially remove the fuel pump assembly and remove the old stuff followed by fresh fuel. This would be preferred over trying to blend up the bad fuel/water.

[eacmen]

I don't believe oil level sensor will prevent the engine from starting. However if it is faulty you should replace it.

Id disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel filter and drain out the old fuel then add fresh fuel in the tank. Might need to jump the fuel pump to get all the old fuel out of the tank. The issue is that if the bad fuel is in the lines you dont want to pump all that bad fuel into the engine while it wont start. Simply filling the tank with fresh fuel will only "fix" the fuel in the tank, there is still significant fuel in the lines.

[Arith2]

I could possibly just do the filter disconnect and put good fuel in the tank. When the key is on, the pump primes the system which should drain fuel correct? I don't have a fuel pump removal tool but if it comes down to it, autozone should for rent.

[mrgizmo04]

Yeah, disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter and let them drain.

You don't need any special tool to remove the fuel pump. I'm assuming you are talking about the big screw on lock ring that holds it down. Use a screw driver and a hammer to tap around the circumference, it will come loose.

*not my pic

[eacmen]

I could possibly just do the filter disconnect and put good fuel in the tank. When the key is on, the pump primes the system which should drain fuel correct? I don't have a fuel pump removal tool but if it comes down to it, autozone should for rent.

Yup. Using the key to prime the pump is good enough. Make sure the battery is decently charged.

I am in the process right now of siphoning the old fuel out of our crashed car. That fuel was from October. Plan to just use it in our lawn tractor. However I did put Stabil in the fuel before storing the car. I expect it will be okay.

[terra]

You can turn on the fuel pump with INPA. Runs longer than the prime on key on.