I wasn't able to do it today because I want to have fuel when I do this. The wife took her car to work and my mini is down from a nail in the tire(thanks Orlando). Checked the battery and it's at 12.47V so I think it's on its way out. My instructors emphasized on not using the screw driver method but I can do what I can with what I got if the pump needs to come out.
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The new engine is in, crank no start
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Last edited by Arith2; 04-18-2020, 07:35 PM.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Who's instructing you?Youtube DIYs and more
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
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Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View PostWho's instructing you?This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
I go to UTI which seems to be one of the more preferred schools. My instructors seem competent for the most part. My instructor, before corona, was a BMW Master Tech for 17 years and he'd currently be my instructor if everything wasn't shut down and I would ask him at lot of questions before I even got the engine. When I did my engine, it was at the shop I used to work at with two more Master Techs. It really was hard for me to mess up stuff because if I was 99% sure, I would ask.
1, Check fuel pressure at the rail
2. Check for spark.
No fuel, no spark, no start. It doesn't sound like you have checked either one of those things.
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Originally posted by chicane View Post
I would have to say your instructors are NOT competent as they would have told you to check TWO things before you start asking 'no start' questions:
1, Check fuel pressure at the rail
2. Check for spark.
No fuel, no spark, no start. It doesn't sound like you have checked either one of those things.
That's because only cylinder one injector was plugged in.
I did the 'ole touch everything test. Turns out I had never re-plugged in my injectors. There was an issue with the plastic cover so I had to remove the harness and fix it. I didn't push down on it enough because injector one was plugged in but the rest were just right before the click.
So the fuel was the problem... Or lack there of. I was ruling out simple fixes and things that maybe have actually been a problem. My instructors weren't incompetent, I just didn't think to do the obvious right off the bat. Touch stuff. I caused the problem over something stupid.
It started immediately. No Check engine light and no low oil light. Just have some tire pressure, which 32 down to 26psi after 10 months isn't bad. I also had it on stands so the tires wouldn't get flat spots.
This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
There was an issue with the plastic cover so I had to remove the harness and fix it. I didn't push down on it enough because injector one was plugged in but the rest were just right before the click.
So the fuel was the problem...
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Originally posted by jbfrancis3 View PostHow would injectors not be plugged in and no codes thrown?This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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