Did you ever pull adaptations? Wonder if they'd show different ignition values on cyl 2 & 3.
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Possible Head Gasket Failure
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DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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For those that have done the HG, is it best to pull the engine? Do you have proper clearance for your torque wrench etc? I'm not suggesting you must pull the engine for a HG but wondered if it might be an easier job all in all with the engine out.
I almost had to pull the head when I broke off a crossthreaded exhaust stud and I figured at that point I would be doing a mini rebuild, rod bearings, valve seals etc. and all would be so much easier on an engine stand.2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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Leaving the engine in and pulling the head is easier in my opinion. I pulled mine because its getting pistons and a few other things done while im in there.Originally posted by Cubieman View PostFor those that have done the HG, is it best to pull the engine? Do you have proper clearance for your torque wrench etc? I'm not suggesting you must pull the engine for a HG but wondered if it might be an easier job all in all with the engine out.
I almost had to pull the head when I broke off a crossthreaded exhaust stud and I figured at that point I would be doing a mini rebuild, rod bearings, valve seals etc. and all would be so much easier on an engine stand.
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The engine bay is your engine stand lol. Plenty of HGs replaced in the UK with the engine in the car:Originally posted by Cubieman View PostFor those that have done the HG, is it best to pull the engine? Do you have proper clearance for your torque wrench etc? I'm not suggesting you must pull the engine for a HG but wondered if it might be an easier job all in all with the engine out.
I almost had to pull the head when I broke off a crossthreaded exhaust stud and I figured at that point I would be doing a mini rebuild, rod bearings, valve seals etc. and all would be so much easier on an engine stand.
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I'm wondering what's causing head gasket failure at low mileage 80k, saw one on m3cutters with around 56k also. Mine at 210k I just accepted that its high mileage with high compression and being thin between cylinders.
Does anyone recommend adding copper gasket spray when reinstalling, I did and feel it would "beef" up the thin gasket area between cylinders, but that's just my opinion.
OP sorry to hear and good luck.
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I would suspect overheating by a previous owner in this specific case and not normal wear and tear.Originally posted by Halftim3 View PostI'm wondering what's causing head gasket failure at low mileage 80k, saw one on m3cutters with around 56k also. Mine at 210k I just accepted that its high mileage with high compression and being thin between cylinders.
Does anyone recommend adding copper gasket spray when reinstalling, I did and feel it would "beef" up the thin gasket area between cylinders, but that's just my opinion.
OP sorry to hear and good luck.
Unless op owned it since new then I’m not sure.
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Just look at all the threads on here of guys buying shitty radiators and refusing to update their cooling systems until failure.
OP, sorry to hear if this is true. It's unfortunate that you never know the complete history when buying a used car.2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO
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Thanks boys, to answer your questions I am the 2nd owner. 1st owner gave me the complete history and service records, I have no clue how the head gasket failed but I suspect the same thing, overheating or waiting for the temp light to come on instead of doing preventative maintenance.
It's a fun project from the look of it and I plan on going through it meticulously, everything will be replaced or refreshed while I'm in there.
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I am almost certain you have head gasket failure. Do not ignore this or you will need to get a new head like I did. I had the exact same issue. basically with the detonation at ~3k rpm. You are having gasses mix between the cylinders. if you ignore it like i did this will eventually chip away head material and it will not be fixable (AFAIK). Eventually, I needed a full engine rebuild.Originally posted by WestBankM4 View PostEngine has 80k miles on it, I've replaced all the spark plugs, coil packs, and valve cover gaskets, screws, etc. with OEM parts. Engine is dead stock, no upgrades.
I've had the Vanos upgraded with all Besian parts and saw that it passed the test with flying colors.
I'm chasing a misfire, essentially rough starting when cold but gets better when it warms up. The problem is a pinging (marbles) noise once the car heats up, happens around 2500-3500 and with load on the motor, worse when going uphill. I think the car may have some sort of pre-detonation and it's throwing codes for cylinder 2 and 3 misfire.
Tomorrow I plan on yanking the plugs and doing a compression test. I'm praying it's not the head gasket.
If it's not, I'm installing the OEM fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, if that doesn't solve it, then I'll send out the injectors to RC. Not sure what is causing this, thoughts?
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Good advice aboveDD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Car is prepped for the HG in my garage, no more driving it although I can't be too sure how long the PO drove it like this.
Parts should be arriving from FCP in a couple weeks, I'm hoping there's no damage and if there is, nothing a minimal skim couldn't fix.
Does anyone know of any good machine shop that can carry out the hot tank, cleaning, and skimming for me in NorCal?
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