Timing/Vanos related codes? unable to find source of the issue P0015,P0010, P0185

[M3llowM3]

Hey guys, I've been having a bit of an issue and I'm not sure where to move forward from here. This summer i had my chain tensioner and exhaust hub replaced. My car has been stored in my garage for the past month or so, and we've had some warm weather recently, so i decided to get into the garage and install my turner airbox. I did the MAP kit, along with the HP dme conversion by kassel with a remote tune from HTE. I went for a quick 10 minute drive day one just to hear it and it felt and sounded good, and i parked it up. I was going to warm my car up the next day for a compression test because I had what i thought to be a little too much smoke from my exhaust (still haven't done pressure test so this needs to be done still). I was idling and the car had the CEL illuminate with 3 codes. P0010, P0015, P0185. The car actually stalled out twice idling on my driveway over the course of 15-20 mins or so. After research and reading i found it would most likely be one of two things, the vanos solenoid/controller, or the exhaust cam position sensor. I first replaced the cam shaft position sensor, with no change. I found a beisan rebuilt solenoid locally and installed that. with new seals and cleaning the valve body. Still getting codes P0010 and P0015 instantly with no CEL, and after idling 5-10 minute P0185 comes back up with a CEL. I noticed in INPA the cam shaft sensor bank 1 reads 0 and does not move whatsoever so I decided to test my wiring going to the sensor. I tested all 3 wires , 12v was good, 5v signal was good, and ground was good. I am currently at a loss, and don't know where to move from here, hoping someone has any suggestions or insight for me. thank you.

[maupineda]

I would try another sensor and solenoid pack. I would not trust used parts unless they were removed from a working car.

[M3llowM3]

I would try another sensor and solenoid pack. I would not trust used parts unless they were removed from a working car.

Sensor is brand new the the solenoid was confirmed working (purchased from a friend who ended up getting brand new from bmw in a full vanos rebuild)

[Tbonem3]

p0010 is solenoid. P0015 might be as well, look at besian website.

Besian rebuilt solenoids have been know to fail. Might need to try another one.

[sapote]

Hey guys, I've been having a bit of an issue and I'm not sure where to move forward from here. This summer i had my chain tensioner and exhaust hub replaced. My car has been stored in my garage for the past month or so, and we've had some warm weather recently, so i decided to get into the garage and install my turner airbox. I did the MAP kit, along with the HP dme conversion by kassel with a remote tune from HTE. I went for a quick 10 minute drive day one just to hear it and it felt and sounded good, and i parked it up. I was going to warm my car up the next day for a compression test because I had what i thought to be a little too much smoke from my exhaust (still haven't done pressure test so this needs to be done still). I was idling and the car had the CEL illuminate with 3 codes. P0010, P0015, P0185. The car actually stalled out twice idling on my driveway over the course of 15-20 mins or so. After research and reading i found it would most likely be one of two things, the vanos solenoid/controller, or the exhaust cam position sensor. I first replaced the cam shaft position sensor, with no change. I found a beisan rebuilt solenoid locally and installed that. with new seals and cleaning the valve body. Still getting codes P0010 and P0015 instantly with no CEL, and after idling 5-10 minute P0185 comes back up with a CEL. I noticed in INPA the cam shaft sensor bank 1 reads 0 and does not move whatsoever so I decided to test my wiring going to the sensor. I tested all 3 wires , 12v was good, 5v signal was good, and ground was good. I am currently at a loss, and don't know where to move from here, hoping someone has any suggestions or insight for me. thank you.

P0185 could be a large intake air leak.

On the cam sensor: pin1 is 12v supply, pin3 is ground, pin2 is a toggling signal normally 5v (or 12v) and pulled to 0v when cam wheel activated it. So just pull out the ignition coil harness and fuel pump fuse to ensure engine not starting , then manually turn the crank with key turned on, then watch for pin2 changes from high voltage to 0v as sensor triggered. If pin2 not toggling with cam turning then it is bad. Pin2 must be connected to DME during the test as it is an open Collector and needs the DME to pull up high.

[M3llowM3]

P0185 could be a large intake air leak.

On the cam sensor: pin1 is 12v supply, pin3 is ground, pin2 is a toggling signal normally 5v (or 12v) and pulled to 0v when cam wheel activated it. So just pull out the ignition coil harness and fuel pump fuse to ensure engine not starting , then manually turn the crank with key turned on, then watch for pin2 changes from high voltage to 0v as sensor triggered. If pin2 not toggling with cam turning then it is bad. Pin2 must be connected to DME during the test as it is an open Collector and needs the DME to pull up high.

I will attempt your test tomorrow with daylight. I did test the 3 wires with the key in pos2 though. i got 12v on pin 1, with chassis ground, 5v on pin 2 with chassis ground, and the same 12v and 5v with the ground being used on the connector.


edit: I also just inspected the intake boots and air lines going to and around the airbox and map sensor and all looks normal. I emailed beisan and he said their units CAN fail and he does warranty them for the original purchaser. He also states p0015 is a mechanical exhaust vanos issue where the valve can become stuck, where p0010 is an electrical solenoid issue. my question would be can one lead to the other? I cleaned my valves and did the seals when I just swapped out for the beisan unit. My exhaust hub and chain tensioner were both done this summer by a very reputable indie shop, is this looking like a bad timing job or bad parts? again, any input or suggestions are appreciated.

[maupineda]

Sound to me you have a failed solenoid pack.

[Tomba]

Have the camshaft offsets been correctly programmed/edit in the tune?
Seems an exhaust camshaft sensor to me.

[M3llowM3]

Have the camshaft offsets been correctly programmed/edit in the tune?
Seems an exhaust camshaft sensor to me.

I would hope so. I had my csl tune flashed a 2nd time by hte after I had kassels base csl tune on thinking it maybe a tune issue.. Still persists

[M3llowM3]

Well I apparently don't have a 32mm socket to crank the motor manually.. But everyone thinks it's a solenoid or cam shaft sensor which were both already replaced. Car is not moving anywhere until spring anyways so it'll be going back to the shop asap come March/April but I'd like to keep this thread open Incase anyone has more suggestions on what this may be. Just had this car at the shop for vanos work so I'd really like to avoid spending more money on it getting diagnosed and timed again.

I've opened up my old solenoid to inspect for a failure and couldn't find anything.. What is the beisan procedure to repair? Just reflow solder on the 6 connector pins to the main board? I can do that but it all looks good and continuity between the pins and the board was good too. Other than just waiting to get it to a shop and have the vanos inspected I'm not sure where to go from here

[oceansize]

Well I apparently don't have a 32mm socket to crank the motor manually.. But everyone thinks it's a solenoid or cam shaft sensor which were both already replaced. Car is not moving anywhere until spring anyways so it'll be going back to the shop asap come March/April but I'd like to keep this thread open Incase anyone has more suggestions on what this may be. Just had this car at the shop for vanos work so I'd really like to avoid spending more money on it getting diagnosed and timed again

The VANOS solenoid pack is very very easy to remove and replace plus you don't need to time. If your friend would let you try the solenoid off his currently working car that would answer all your questions around the solenoid. Another rebuilt one from Beisan is only a $150 as well (plus you have to send your old one back to Beisan).

[M3llowM3]

The VANOS solenoid pack is very very easy to remove and replace plus you don't need to time. If your friend would let you try the solenoid off his currently working car that would answer all your questions around the solenoid. Another rebuilt one from Beisan is only a $150 as well (plus you have to send your old one back to Beisan).

Yeah maybe I can borrow a known working solenoid from a friend to rule that out. I did replace mine but shit can happen and it could also be having issues. I'm going to make some texts/calls today to see if I can get my hands on a known good part. Otherwise the car will be parked sitting in the garage waiting for spring timing

[Cubieman]

I would hope so. I had my csl tune flashed a 2nd time by hte after I had kassels base csl tune on thinking it maybe a tune issue.. Still persists

My Kassel CSL tune included CSL camshaft offsets causing a vanos inlet error code until I changed it.

If you had Kassel ship you a DME with CSL firmware like I had them do check it out. As to Hassan's partial having any effect on CSL vs non--CSL cams I'm not sure but I don't think you're changing that parameter with his tune unless you specifically asked him to.

[M3llowM3]

My Kassel CSL tune included CSL camshaft offsets causing a vanos inlet error code until I changed it.

If you had Kassel ship you a DME with CSL firmware like I had them do check it out. As to Hassan's partial having any effect on CSL vs non--CSL cams I'm not sure but I don't think you're changing that parameter with his tune unless you specifically asked him to.

It's something I will ask Hassan, thank you

Edit:

Confirmed with Hassan, he is fairly certain my codes are not related to the cam offsets in the remap. And considering the cam sensor and solenoid were done with no change, I think it suggests a mechanical timing issue and should be inspected/diagnosed/retimed?

[M3llowM3]

I tested my old sensor out of the car following the procedure at the pelican page I posted here. I stuck a jumper wire into the pin 2 , and connected the old sensor out of the car. Reads 5v normal and 108mv when I touch a wrench to the tip. Is this normal behavior? If this is to be expected then does this rule out the camshaft sensor? Reminder that this test was done on the sensor I pulled from the car because I thought it was bad in the first place.