Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

S54 timing chain guide

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 2
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 template Next
    #1

    S54 timing chain guide

    Hi everyone, I bought an 01 M3 with 168k miles. I was planning to pull the engine because I planned to redo the entire front suspension, cooling system, driveline, big 3 and any necessary preventative maintenance the car needs. My question to you guys is, how common is timing chain guide failure on a S54? I know the upper timing chain guide piece breaks over time (I have a new part from Beisans) but if I have the engine out already it makes sense to do the entire thing or is it an over kill? The car is pissing oil from the RMS, cpv o ring, valve cover gasket too. I wouldn't be surprised if it was pissing oil from the front crank seal while the engine is out too. My goals with the car? Well, I plan to track it a couple times over the year and also make it my summer daily, so it'll be driven.

    BMW S54 Timing Chain Kit - S54TIMINGKIT
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-timing-chain-kit-s54-11317830869kit
    BMW S54 Timing Chain Kit - S54TIMINGKIT


    Should I get this kit and send it?
    Tags: None
    #2
    I don't think timing chain issues are of major concern on this vehicle not to mention to replace one you must pull the head. I guess there is a way to do it without pulling the head but some don't recommend that.

    I would only be doing the chain at the point the head was comming off, thats my .02. But definitely do the vanos stuff, or at least get a visual on your pump driver tangs and cam sleeve bolts.

    Congrats on the purchase!
    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
    Instagram
    • Likes 1

    Comment

      #3
      What he said ^
      3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
        I don't think timing chain issues are of major concern on this vehicle not to mention to replace one you must pull the head. I guess there is a way to do it without pulling the head but some don't recommend that.

        I would only be doing the chain at the point the head was comming off, thats my .02. But definitely do the vanos stuff, or at least get a visual on your pump driver tangs and cam sleeve bolts.

        Congrats on the purchase!
        Yeah, I got the Vanos parts from beisans so I was going to do it all. I didn’t get the Vanos tabs since I don’t have any codes yet. I also got the upgraded bolts from Lang racing and the rouge engineering Vanos oil line and their cpv o ring. My thoughts were. If the engine is coming out and I’m doing the crank seal. Why not pull the cover and do the chains? I know timing chain guides other than the top piece by the Vanos unit is a common failure point but wasn’t sure if the other parts failed like the S62s and M62Tus cause they are 21 year old plastics.

        Comment

          #5
          Yeah the timing chain guides themselves don't seem to fail often at all on this engine. But make sure you at least check the bolt that goes through the head and holds the top part of the driver's side guide. Those tend to back out and can cause a lot of issues if they're loose.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

          Comment

            #6
            I would certainly replace the oil pump tensioner. Mine was so brittle it cracked in half while doing the rod bearings.

            The other chain guides seem to last quite long. The right side one is aluminum with a plastic cover, and the left side one is fiber reinforced plastic.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by cobra View Post
              I would certainly replace the oil pump tensioner. Mine was so brittle it cracked in half while doing the rod bearings.

              The other chain guides seem to last quite long. The right side one is aluminum with a plastic cover, and the left side one is fiber reinforced plastic.
              I will certainly order that and replace it while I’m in there. Thank you that was the information I’m looking for. At that rate, I’ll leave the other timing chain guides alone. I’ll just change the front crank seal

              Comment

                #8
                Only problem with replacing the oil pump tensioner is that the timing cover has to come off. Which technically means that the head needs to come off. Plenty of people have removed and reinstalled just the timing cover (including myself), but technically you are supposed to remove the head.

                If you're going to be doing all that, it's probably worth spending the $50 to have fresh guides.
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                  Only problem with replacing the oil pump tensioner is that the timing cover has to come off. Which technically means that the head needs to come off. Plenty of people have removed and reinstalled just the timing cover (including myself), but technically you are supposed to remove the head.

                  If you're going to be doing all that, it's probably worth spending the $50 to have fresh guides.
                  Exactly, at that point why not do all new guides and chains and such.
                  • Likes 1

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Ajcanadian View Post

                    Exactly, at that point why not do all new guides and chains and such.
                    I just had mine apart and didn't replace the two side ones cause they looked perfectly fine. But yeah... plastic degrades so not a bad idea if you're doing a refresh.

                    I got the timing cover off and resealed without too much hassle. It would be very easy without the engine in the car. I just cleaned it super well to remove all trace amounts of oil and then put silicone sealant between the gasket layers and especially in the corner where the front cover mates with the block and head. It has only been 1500 miles but no leaks so far at all. The hard part was reinstalling the front main seal and had to make a tool to do it properly.
                    • Likes 1

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by cobra View Post

                      I just had mine apart and didn't replace the two side ones cause they looked perfectly fine. But yeah... plastic degrades so not a bad idea if you're doing a refresh.

                      I got the timing cover off and resealed without too much hassle. It would be very easy without the engine in the car. I just cleaned it super well to remove all trace amounts of oil and then put silicone sealant between the gasket layers and especially in the corner where the front cover mates with the block and head. It has only been 1500 miles but no leaks so far at all. The hard part was reinstalling the front main seal and had to make a tool to do it properly.
                      Exactly, it won't hurt it if I have the engine out. How many miles are on your engine?

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ajcanadian View Post

                        Exactly, it won't hurt it if I have the engine out. How many miles are on your engine?
                        100k

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Some good info about replacing this stuff starting on page two of my thread here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ressions/page2

                          Also features two helpful members that have already chimed in here!

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Pklauser View Post
                            Some good info about replacing this stuff starting on page two of my thread here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ressions/page2

                            Also features two helpful members that have already chimed in here!
                            Thank you! That thread helped me out.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Thanks all. Ended up ordered new guides, oil pump tensioner, timing cover gasket, and INA chain tensioner and a few hardware.

                              Comment

                              Previous 1 2 template Next
                              Working...
                              X