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    Clutch and pilot bearing questions

    I have never dealt with a self adjusting clutch plate before so I thought I would check in with you guys to make sure I'm on the right track.
    As I understand it after the clutch plate is torqued into place I just use the Allen key to remove the center locking device?

    Is there a certain depth that the pilot bearing should be placed to in the crank or should I just set it at the front hub and let the input shaft push it back to where it needs to be?
    Thanks
    Attached Files

    #2
    Pilot bearing - there is a groove in the crank that it will butt up against, so drive it in carefully using proper size socket or bushing tool attachment so you push it in against the outside casing, tap lightly with hammer to make sure it is going in straight. If you let the input shaft drive it in, you will have a hell of a time and it might not go in straight or sit flush.

    SAC release - yes, torque the pp down, (hopefully you have the clutch alignment tool with long allen on the end, because this is where it comes in) and then release the mechanism with allen key or ratchet extension and remove the clutch alignment tool.
    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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      #3
      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
      Pilot bearing - there is a groove in the crank that it will butt up against, so drive it in carefully using proper size socket or bushing tool attachment so you push it in against the outside casing, tap lightly with hammer to make sure it is going in straight.
      Just to make sure I understood correctly. Bearing should be tapped in until it won't go in anymore (should mean it's flush up against the groove in the crank) right?
      Last edited by heinzboehmer; 04-21-2020, 03:58 PM.
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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        #4
        Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

        Just to make sure I understood correctly. Bearing should be tapped in until it won't go in anymore (should mean it's flush up against the groove in the crank) right?
        Yes, it should bottom out in the crank. You'll hear the change in sound when tapping it in.

        Anyone know a neat party trick to get the old one out with no special tools? (quiz)
        '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jbfrancis3 View Post
          Anyone know a neat party trick to get the old one out with no special tools? (quiz)
          wonderbread/wet shop towels 🤑

          I'll never forget the time I tried this during my 6MT swap, I just couldn't believe it worked!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ATB88 View Post

            wonderbread/wet shop towels 🤑

            I'll never forget the time I tried this during my 6MT swap, I just couldn't believe it worked!
            Yes very good!! 😁

            Any bread, really. I hadn't heard wet towels.

            Good stuff.
            '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jbfrancis3 View Post

              Yes very good!! 😁

              Any bread, really. I hadn't heard wet towels.

              Good stuff.
              Hah yeah, was stranded with my car on the lift so I couldn't go anywhere to get bread. Read that little wet strips of blue shop towels or newspaper would work just as well. Sure enough, it did!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
                I'll never forget the time I tried this during my 6MT swap, I just couldn't believe it worked!
                All I could think of was Todd Howard when I read this...

                Click image for larger version

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                This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                "Do it right once or do it twice"

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sourdough!
                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                  Comment

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