S54 Stroker build

[M/Anthony]

You’d be nuts not to bore and torque plate hone even if it was as little as 0.25 instead of 0.5mm. What pistons specifics ?

I didn't ask him the specs, all I know is they are custom CP pistons, I will ask more specifics when I can.

[8 Coupe]

I've just discovered this thread and thought that I would contribute the details of the S54 that I'm currently having built. I've spent more than 2 years researching all the available S54 performance parts and, with the advice of my engine builder, the following is the package that I've gone firm on.

This engine is designed for an E36 track car but, with strength and longevity for the engine in mind, I'm not going too extreme. It will run on E85 fuel, 6 speed manual gearbox & 4.45 ratio LS Diff (fairly tight tracks in my area).


Steel “girdle” secured with ARP Bolts to make the block as rigid/strong as possible (https://www.difflab.com.au/products/...-engine-girdle)
Ross Performance Harmonic Balancer (similar to ATI) (https://rossperformanceparts.com/pro...rmonic-damper/)
Crank Journals ground 1mm wider to accept wider S50 Euro Big End Bearings - ACL Main & Big End Bearings (S50B32 size)
Carrillo Euro S50B32 Connecting Rods - Big End flanges machined to be 1mm narrower
Carrillo S54 high compression pistons (12.5:1) Bore 87.25mm
Cometic .051” thickness MLS head gasket
Supertech Black Nitride Intake Valves, Single groove keepers
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves, Single groove keepers
Supertech double Valve Springs with steel retainers
Supertech Valve Stem Seals (Viton)
Schrick DLC Cam Followers
Cat Cams 296/288 camshafts, 13mm lift
New Timing Chain & Guides including Beisan upper Chain Guide
VAC upgraded VANOS Exhaust Hub
ARP Cylinder Head Studs
Achilles Under-Drive pulley kit
Achilles Accelerator Cable Adapter Kit
Supersprint V1 Stepped Headers flowing into Y single 3.5" exhaust (lighter than dual 2.5")
Radium Fuel Rail, Pressure Regulator & Fuel Pressure Gauge
High Flow Fuel Injectors (1000cc)
Kassel Performance MAP Sensor Kit
Intake Plenum modified to increase airflow (may end up buying the Karbonius plenum)
Link Fury ECU
Bespoke wiring harness
JB Racing Ultra Light Flywheel/Clutch Kit

The engine has been assembled up to the stage of setting the Cam timing. The VANOS has been refurbished with Beisan parts and is ready to go on. The machining and build has gone very well and the engine builder is very happy with the quality of the parts and the way they went together.

The car has had the previous engine and drivetrain removed and is in the process of having the fuel, electrical and exhaust systems upgraded.

Will keep you informed with the progress of this build.

[jbfrancis3]

I've just discovered this thread and thought that I would contribute the details of the S54 that I'm currently having built. I've spent more than 2 years researching all the available S54 performance parts and, with the advice of my engine builder, the following is the package that I've gone firm on.

Thanks for sharing. Its a stock crank, yes? If I'm reading right, slightly over-bore and stock stoke?

[8 Coupe]

Thanks for sharing. Its a stock crank, yes? If I'm reading right, slightly over-bore and stock stoke?

Yes, it is a stock crank. I know that this thread is about a stroked build but, as there was significant discussion about other aspects of the build, I thought I’d contribute.

The previous engine that my engine builder completed was a stroked 3.5L S54 with a dry sump. He’s currently waiting for the dyno results to see how it’s come together.

One of my main concerns when I started the build was to overcome the biggest weakness of the S54 which is excessive wear of the big end bearings - especially when regularly stressed with track work. I have great respect for Andrew Lang and if you go to his Lang Racing website (https://www.langracing.com/addressin...ification-kit/), he details this problem and his solution. If you look at his pictures, you can see the significant increase in journal width to take the wider Con Rods & big end bearings. My builder was uncomfortable with taking that much metal from the crank so we came up with the idea of widening the journals by only 1mm and taking 0.5mm off each side of the big end flanges on the con rods. This allowed the use of S50B32 bearings which are 2mm wider than standard S54 bearings (the length and other dimensions are suitable for substituting the S50 rod for the OE S54 rod). Following the machining, extensive efforts were made to weight match the rods & pistons as well as balance the crankshaft. We had to wait quite a few months because of a backlog at the best machine shop in my city but, as it’s such a critical section of the engine, it was worth waiting and getting it done right. The block was machined with a torque plate in place to ensure the most accurate finish. The weight of the Carrillo Rods & Pistons is lighter than the OE components so, the change to wider Rods & Bearings, should have no adverse effect on the engine’s ability to rev highly.

The pic in my first post shows how well this crank journal/ Con Rod setup has gone together (as well as showing the “girdle” which adds significant rigidity to the block to protect the crankshaft when being stressed on the track). The first pic in this post shows the wider crankshaft journals after it returned from machining.

[jbfrancis3]

Never mind the non-stroked part, its just as relevant, for me at least. This thread has some helpful bits and its nice to see documentation of a real build. Are you based in Australia/NZ?

Just curious. I got that hunch from the girdle which I hadn't seen before for this motor (that's probably more due to lack of knowledge of in this modified S54 world)

Did you discuss any specific power levels with your builder before beginning or was it generally known the abilities of the motor and the focus was on how to do it right?

[SteelGreyM]

JB Racing Ultra Light Flywheel/Clutch Kit

What clutch did you choose with your lightweight flywheel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[8 Coupe]

Never mind the non-stroked part, its just as relevant, for me at least. This thread has some helpful bits and its nice to see documentation of a real build. Are you based in Australia/NZ?

Just curious. I got that hunch from the girdle which I hadn't seen before for this motor (that's probably more due to lack of knowledge of in this modified S54 world)

Did you discuss any specific power levels with your builder before beginning or was it generally known the abilities of the motor and the focus was on how to do it right?

Yes, I live in Brisbane, Australia.

The girdle is used by a number of guys driving Track BMW’s in Australia. It’s been designed to fit M50’s, M54’s, S50’s as well as the S54. I think that it would also fit the US spec S52 but doesn’t fit the M52. As the crankshaft tries to flex on power strokes, the forces imparted to the main bearing caps obviously get transferred into the block so the girdle stops these forces causing flex in the block thus keeping the crankshaft straight. Used in conjunction with a quality harmonic balancer, there shouldn’t be any crankshaft failures when being hammered during track events.

The discussions with my engine builder were about finding the balance between power & longevity. Obviously, we all want the most HP that we can get out of an engine but, as this is an expensive build, I want to get many years of track time out of it. The selection of large (but not huge) cams, standard size valves and the big end bearing modifications were part of achieving that balance. With the engine running on E85 (necessary with the 12.5:1 compression ratio), longer duration cams with improved flow through the intake and headers, we’re aiming for 350WHP. The use of the JB Racing Ultra Light Flywheel/Clutch combination should slightly reduce drivetrain loss due to the reduction in diameter and weight.

[8 Coupe]

What clutch did you choose with your lightweight flywheel?

I bought the JB Racing Ultra Light Race Flywheel/Clutch kit. The clutch is only 140mm (5.5") diameter with two plates. This design will significantly reduce the rotating mass compared to a conventional flywheel and clutch.

I believe that the plate surfaces are scintered iron which don't "slip" well thus, it will make manoeuvring in tight spaces a bit more difficult, as well as issues trying to drive the car onto the trailer.

http://www.jbracing.com/flywheel-bmwul1.php

[Jhinz03]

Following this post because I am planning on something VERY similar early next year. My current plan has me going with the Lang Racing stroker kit with the 97mm stroke and keeping the 87mm bore, along with Lang's stage 3 head and 304/296 cams. Also planning to run a full SuperSprint exhaust including the stepped header and race muffler with test pipes and going with PSDesigns's velocity stacks. I haven't decided on the DME and whether I want to use E85 (there are two stations within a mile of home that sell it), but Active Autowerke isn't far and they have a great reputation locally (and online it seems) for tuning this engine. They did a similar VAC stroker kit build a few years ago and made 370rwhp without too much more than the stroker kit and tune. Also likely going to 12.5:1. Project will likely be done in several stages as money comes in, with the stroker kit going in last. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as this will be my first BMW project and first project of this scale.

[digger]

Following this post because I am planning on something VERY similar early next year. My current plan has me going with the Lang Racing stroker kit with the 97mm stroke and keeping the 87mm bore, along with Lang's stage 3 head and 304/296 cams. Also planning to run a full SuperSprint exhaust including the stepped header and race muffler with test pipes and going with PSDesigns's velocity stacks. I haven't decided on the DME and whether I want to use E85 (there are two stations within a mile of home that sell it), but Active Autowerke isn't far and they have a great reputation locally (and online it seems) for tuning this engine. They did a similar VAC stroker kit build a few years ago and made 370rwhp without too much more than the stroker kit and tune. Also likely going to 12.5:1. Project will likely be done in several stages as money comes in, with the stroker kit going in last. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as this will be my first BMW project and first project of this scale.

what is the engine to be used for? are you going to run e85 or flex? if the former then youd want a bit more than 12.5:1

honestly i'd probably avoid the usual suspects and their stage 3.1415 heads (alot of the description is verbatim from each other lol) and seek out the services of specialist porter.

honestly youd be better off with a CSL style airbox, when the hood is closed routing cold air is critical for performnace and knock control

i think those cams will probably be overkill and hurt the broadness of the powerband more than it helps the topend

[Jhinz03]

what is the engine to be used for? are you going to run e85 or flex? if the former then youd want a bit more than 12.5:1

honestly i'd probably avoid the usual suspects and their stage 3.1415 heads (alot of the description is verbatim from each other lol) and seek out the services of specialist porter.

honestly youd be better off with a CSL style airbox, when the hood is closed routing cold air is critical for performnace and knock control

i think those cams will probably be overkill and hurt the broadness of the powerband more than it helps the topend

I'd probably run flex if I run anything at all but haven't really decided. Would honestly prefer regular 93 if I thought I could get away with it.

I'm definitely open to finding a local shop to port the head, but the Lang seems to be a good option and I've heard good things about them.

The PS Designs stack kit has a CF heat shield and some nice scoops to route air in. Im also going to be venting the hood to help with temp control.

What cams would you recommend? 288/280?

[8 Coupe]

Jhinz03, are you intending to use a VANOS Delete Kit (Achilles or VAC) or retain VANOS operation? If the Cams are too long a duration, combined with greater valve depression then you run the risk of contact between the valves and pistons. You can reduce the amount of VANOS movement electronically to prevent this (if you are using an aftermarket ECU) but there's always a risk that it may have a glitch so you really need to mechanically limit it, especially on the intake cam. I'm using Cat Cams 296/288 which are considered to be at the upper limit to use with VANOS although 288/280 is considered optimum for street use.

On the subject of installing a stroker kit, the guy who has built my engine, previously built a 3.5L stroked S54 and he recently said that he won't do another stroked one. He said that the gains are not very great considering the expense and the engine doesn't rev as freely with the power shifted to a lower rev range. Another guy, who races an E46 M3 de-stroked it so that he can compete in sub 3.0L events, said that the engine response is much better and he's able to get the power down better when coming out of corners. Apart from bragging rights, stroking an S54 does not necessarily make it a better engine in terms of "using" the power.

[digger]

I'd probably run flex if I run anything at all but haven't really decided. Would honestly prefer regular 93 if I thought I could get away with it.

I'm definitely open to finding a local shop to port the head, but the Lang seems to be a good option and I've heard good things about them.

The PS Designs stack kit has a CF heat shield and some nice scoops to route air in. Im also going to be venting the hood to help with temp control.

What cams would you recommend? 288/280?

Schrick big lift 288/280

there are some great Honda shops that might be interested some of them extremely competent people working there. Don’t limit yourself to local

lots of hot contaminated air still gets ingested

[Jhinz03]

I will most likely be keeping VANOS, since it's mostly going to be a daily driver with VERY occasional track use. The more I ready, I think 288/280 is probably closer to where I want to be. The idea of stroking it was mostly due to the fact that I was likely going to have to replace the rod bearings and wanted to increase the compression, so I figured I'd do it while I was in there. Destroking honestly doesn't sound like a terrible idea, except I feel like I'd be losing more torque then I'd like. There are a couple fairly highly regarded BMW tuners locally in Miami, so I doubt it'd be too difficult to find someone to get it dialed in.

[digger]

If you destroked you’d just run a shorter final drive to make up the difference. The engine will just be a bunch busier in that it will always spinning faster at a given road speed. Personally I’d rather have the stroke for a bit more effortless / accessible performance.

the power is always in the top end of the engine the bottom end just determined the rpm where it happens (scales peak hp rpm up or down)

it’s amazing how many think stroking an engine makes more peak power inherently as it’s just completely wrong to assume that. It’s not to say you won’t get gains but it comes down to what’s limiting power in the first place