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    Tracking car hard in hot climate

    Hi all,

    First post here on the forum.

    Recently bought an E46 M3 as my dedicated track car. Have been tracking my F80 M3 daily the last two years (~20 events) with zero worries in regards to cooling. However i know i am going to need to refresh some if not all of the e46 cooling setup.

    I track in California and my closest spot is Thunderhill. Most sessions are 25~ minutes. Some organizations run open pit sessions that can be 45 minutes.
    In the next couple months it will be 100-110 degrees out at track days. Currently gets to around 80.

    Starting to plan out what things should be done around cooling for e46.
    I would really like to get the e46 to the same point as my f80 where i don't even have to worry about how hot it is.

    Part of me wants to address all of the items below in one big garage session. Part of me want to do just a few of them to get me to the track for my first few events and not have to do it all at once.

    1) Upgraded Oil Cooler (looking at CSF)
    2) Upgraded Radiator (looking at CSF)
    3) Distilled water/waterwetter track combo upgrade (vs standard 50 water/50 coolant)
    4) New 16" fan and relay (hear oem fan can nuke?)
    5) Performance thermostat
    6) Upgraded waterpump (metal fin)
    *If i am missing any other popular cooling items from my list, let me know

    TL DR. My main question here:
    1) Out of the upgrades above. If i just want to be able to make it through my sessions and not have to stop and cool within a few laps.
    Which should i do right away vs can be put off for a few more events and may not be as drastic an improvment? Or is this a much larger e46 issue where i am not going to solve it without doing all of them?

    My current thoughts are the oil cooler, radiator, water wetter for my first few events? Rest can come as need be? As time/money persist?
    Would those three upgrades set me up for really hard 25 minute sessions?
    Last edited by Driver407; 04-04-2022, 03:36 PM. Reason: words

    #2
    I don't think you need the upgraded radiator, honestly. The stock one is really good. And I encountered weird heat issues with my CSF rad where it would spike temps under heavy load especially uphill when it's 100F+. Maybe just replace your old stock one with a fresh rad and update anything else.

    Last edited by EthanolTurbo; 04-04-2022, 03:44 PM.
    Instagram: @logicalconclusion

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      #3
      Totally a chance i am over thinking this and the oem can suffice. Read so many differing opinions on the cooling.
      Just trying to prevent any wasted track time for my first event if i can do a few fixes beforehand. Maybe i should just bite the bullet and do an event fully stock and see where i am?

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        #4
        To give you some perspective I was at Thunderhill last Friday and it was about mid 70s. I wasn’t paying close attention but I never saw my coolant go above the middle and I saw oil get to around 250. I wasn’t fully pushing it because it was the first event out with the car. I have a stock cooling system with silicone pipes. I recently refreshed all the pipes, pump, fan clutch, but kept the original radiator and oil cooler. I am running about 50/50 water/coolant with water wetter added.
        Last edited by Koolsilver; 04-04-2022, 04:07 PM.

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          #5
          I run no mechanical fan and stock everything else. Cooling system is refreshed, but I even run 60/40 mix of distilled water and BMW coolant, so nothing fancy to try to keep temps down. Been to hot Thunderhill days (90+ F) and my car had zero issues. Water temps have always stayed rock solid in the middle and the highest I've seen oil temps get is about 240 F.

          Just make sure your cooling system is refreshed and the air passages in all the radiators (coolant, oil and AC) are free of debris. As stated above, stock cooling works very well.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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            #6
            Originally posted by Koolsilver View Post
            To give you some perspective I was at Thunderhill last Friday and it was about mid 70s. I wasn’t paying close attention but I never saw my coolant go above the middle and I saw oil get to around 250. I wasn’t fully pushing it because it was the first event out with the car. I have a stock cooling system with silicone pipes. I recently refreshed all the pipes, pump, fan clutch, but kept the original radiator and oil cooler. I am running about 50/50 water/coolant with water wetter added.
            Cool that info helps out. I just need to suck it up and do an event. Still cheaper to do event than refresh crap. My current radiator and oil are working pretty well. Pushing it hard in the canyons for 20 minutes and can barely get oil temp past half way.
            What sort of lap times are you doing? For reference i am 2:02 and 1:25 at Thill in the f80. Fairly quick but not the tippy top quite yet.

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              #7
              How crucial is it that i replace the fan? I should be fine doing several events without swapping or is the failure rate high enough to warrant one now? I am super preventative maintenance kinda person. Just dont like dealing with shit i coulda fixed for few hundred bucks.
              However just bought the car and trying to budget all my mods accordingly over time. Thanks for info so far.

              Comment


                #8
                I would definitely replace the fan clutch if it’s original ($90 Mahle Behr) and the fan itself is cheap insurance while you’re at it.

                I second the recommendation to stick with an OEM radiator, but I do like my CSF oil cooler.

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                  #9
                  If you buy a CSF radiator - you'll come back and buy and OE radiator after the CSF fails to cope with the heat.

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                    #10
                    Truth, if I have learned one thing from this forum it is do not buy any radiator other than OE.
                    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                      #11
                      Ha, roger that. Stay OE and buy FCPEuro if i do . I know the drill.
                      Went over the previous owners records and appears to have had fan clutch replaced about a year ago when he did big 3. Seems i should be good to go.
                      Going to sign up for an event with all yalls help.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Driver407 View Post
                        Going to sign up for an event with all yalls help.
                        Nice, I'll be up there doing the 5 mile track on May 6th with HoD. Maybe we'll run into each other at some point
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Estoril View Post
                          If you buy a CSF radiator - you'll come back and buy and OE radiator after the CSF fails to cope with the heat.
                          Agreed, you'll get a lap or two and then the car will start over heating, DON'T DO THE CSF RADIATOR

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                            #14
                            Not necessarily answering the question, but I personally just avoid Thunderhill in the hot months. We are lucky with so many other NorCal tracks...why subject the car to such brutal heat when the track is so nice in spring and fall? Just my two cents. Agreed that OEM radiator is best
                            2005 6MT TiAg | 1:47.01 @ Laguna Seca
                            ..........................| 1:58.93 @ Sonoma

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                              #15
                              I didn’t get any service records with my car and it had 115k so I threw a lot of parts at it. Of course one thing I didn’t replace was coil packs and at this event I developed a misfire under load after the third session so that cut my event short. Haven’t officially diagnosed coil packs but I bought a full set, probably good to carry spares anyways.

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