Tracking car hard in hot climate

[Driver407]

Not necessarily answering the question, but I personally just avoid Thunderhill in the hot months. We are lucky with so many other NorCal tracks...why subject the car to such brutal heat when the track is so nice in spring and fall? Just my two cents. Agreed that OEM radiator is best

I totally agree with you like 95%. When covid was in peek we had to sit in cars at 110 degrees, masks, and no clubhouse. It sucked. I swore not to do it again. Yet... here i am with a brand new track toy that needs a break in. Ha.

My car has 114k and had toons of maintenance done before i bought. New rack, all the bushings, new belts, coils, spark plugs, new coolant and power steering reservoirs, plus the big three in last 3k miles. Super ready to go

Usually run with Ongrid or SpeedSF. I usually come and annoy the e46 people to ask them about mods for my soon to be. Now i have one and will still be doing the same. So ill find you! Car number is... 407 in blue.

[Obioban]

New stock rad
New stock oil cooler
new stock waterpump
50:50 water/coolant.

(also do the coolant piping and thermostat while you're in there-- new stock would be a good choice.

You had a good experience in the F80 because the car was new(ish) stock. If you want a similar experience, stick to the formula that worked.

Overwhelmingly, all the aftermarket rads and oil coolers are downgrades.

With stock everything, coolant temps on track will go to just beyond vertical, and oil temps will go to ~3/4. That is normal/expected/healthy, and better than you'll get with aftermarket.

[Cronenberged]

CSF radiator is a dumpster fire. I know several people where there car suddenly started over heating for no reason, and mine started leaking after a year. Seen good things surrounding the PWR which is single pass like stock, and the Mishimoto which is dual pass. Can't go wrong with OEM if you're trying to save money plus FCP lifetime warranty you can swap it out if anything goes wrong.

[GolanM3]

Stay away from CSF, you can search other posts on here if you want to learn more on this

[Mr.wReckless]

Fitted a CSF oil cooler last autumn. Although not many miles, the normal oil temps did drop noticeably during normal driving.



The stock one is puny compared to the CSF, however it's not apples to apples as my OEM was old and tired, but as I said, oil temps did drop noticeably with normal driving with the new CSF. So I'm calling it good.

That being said, you don't have to search far and wide to find a certain cooling thread where the new CSF radiator was the culprit.

Regards

[thegenius46m]

Personally recommend avoiding CSF like the plague. Quality control is literal garbage. I’d you get units that actually function you are considered lucky.

My first csf didn’t even fit, second one is so far fine 5yrs later, but multiple friends and my local shop have received a handful of units that have dead cores out of the box and the cars start overheating. Wonder why? 🤦♂️

Recently got a d088 oil cooler and it’s excellent quality. E9x guys love them.

You can also run 80/20 water to coolant ratio and put your heater in full blast during the session. I’m in Cali too but haven’t tracked in the summer up at thill in a few years. Your car should last 10-15min before a cooldown unless you have other issues.

I personally don’t bother with track days in 100+ anymore. It’s just more wear and tear on the car and you get less sessions before the track surface is a hot mess and there is no more grip.


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[bigjae46]

Tires and grip have a role in upgrades needed, if any. If you're on 200 treadwear or higher street tires then a fresh OE system will do fine. If you're on a sticky 200 treadwear, NT01 or lower end R-comp then the OE system will not hold up when its 90 degrees outside without backing off every couple of laps.

Have to consider the track surface which plays a huge factor in track temps. For example, COTA is black top. So the air is less efficient in cooling. Also altitude.

If the car is on a trailer, there is no reason not to delete the AC, heater core and the fans. I run no fan. It is not an issue as long as I take a cool down lap or a lap around the paddock. Although water temps could spike if I suddenly come toa stop but my coolant temps are so low that I'm not really concerned about it.

Here is what I've done...

100% distilled water w/water wetter
Delete AC
Delete aux and mechanical fan
Delete heater core
CSF radiator (going back to OE at some point)
2qt aluminum expansion tank in drug bin (custom)
Stant high pressure cap
OE oil cooler
Secondary oil cooler
External oil thermostat
Diverter valve

I never had an issue with the CSF. It's not definitively better than stock either. And there is an issue with some of them, I guess I got lucky. With that said, I'll go back to stock when it comes time to replace the radiator.

Oil temps usually get up to 270 on a long session. It is higher than I'd like on the OE 10w-60 but I have to be really punishing the car in hot weather. I can use a better secondary oil cooler and mount it in a better position for better results.

It is about 60 degrees in this video - water temps never get above 175 even in the summer.

[S14]

I have a CSF oil cooler and CSF radiator, all OEM parts from FCP everywhere else in the cooling system and I have overheating problems on track. Even the plastic pieces before/after the radiator are new OE parts.

I'd like to go back to OEM radiator and see if that fixes my issues.

[Obioban]

I have a CSF oil cooler and CSF radiator, all OEM parts from FCP everywhere else in the cooling system and I have overheating problems on track. Even the plastic pieces before/after the radiator are new OE parts.

I'd like to go back to OEM radiator and see if that fixes my issues.

It will 👍🏻

… especially combined with a new stock oil cooler.

[Nate047]

I'm about due for a full system refresh, any reason to not go with the OE (not original BMW) kit from FCP? It's like a $600 difference. Specifically, any gripes with the Nissens radiator?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-comprehensive-cooling-system-kit-e46-m3-e46m3compcoolkt1

[DoubleSidedTape]

The genuine radiator is only $300:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-radiator-e46-m3-2001-2006-oem-17102228941

[Nate047]

Also, I hear a lot of gripes with CSF quality. I have not heard anything negative about Zionsville. Although the price point is higher, I think that's the way to go if you need an all aluminum racing rad.

[Nate047]

The genuine radiator is only $300:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-17102228941

That is very strange, good catch. I did not compare the parts individually, I just quickly looked at the kit

[DoubleSidedTape]

That is very strange, good catch. I did not compare the parts individually, I just quickly looked at the kit

There are big differences in price for the water pump, thermostat, hoses, and fan clutch (and some smaller parts). I went with a genuine water pump and OE for the rest of the parts, along with a set up upgraded o-rings from the member services section. I still have my original expansion tank and water pump pulley out of that list.

[Obioban]

Also, I hear a lot of gripes with CSF quality. I have not heard anything negative about Zionsville. Although the price point is higher, I think that's the way to go if you need an all aluminum racing rad.

I’ve seen people have issues with the Zionsville, as well.