Tracking car hard in hot climate

[Obioban]

There are big differences in price for the water pump, thermostat, hoses, and fan clutch (and some smaller parts). I went with a genuine water pump and OE for the rest of the parts, along with a set up upgraded o-rings from the member services section. I still have my original expansion tank and water pump pulley out of that list.

There is no OE option for the water pump, AFAIK.

[bigjae46]

Also, I hear a lot of gripes with CSF quality. I have not heard anything negative about Zionsville. Although the price point is higher, I think that's the way to go if you need an all aluminum racing rad.

CSF doesn't do anything better than OE. With the issues...could be worse. I'd stick with OE.

The OE M3 cooling system is pretty good unlike the non-M cooling systems which were terrible. You can stick with genuine BMW and be in good shape. If you want to really beat on it...improvement comes from what you delete and airflow. The OE airflow is really good especially when you delete the AC condenser.

It was an OK improvement deleting the AC and installing the CSF radiator - still around 205. Noticed a good bump by deleting the heater core, aux pump and relocating the expansion tank to the drug bin. At this point, cooling was not an issue - around 195-200

I'm never above 180 after deleting the fans. If its below 80, I'm in the high 160s/low 170s. I don't think the thermostat is open the entire lap.

My theory is by reducing the fluid capacity of the coolant system, you cycle the coolant through the radiator more often which improves cooling.

[Driver407]

Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?

[ridebikes]

Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?

I don't think you'll find consensus around anything other than OEM.

[Obioban]

Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?

What aspect of fresh stock are you finding deficient, that you want to improve on?

[GolanM3]

Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?

I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.

[Obioban]

I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.

And yet, it performs worse than stock.

[bigjae46]

I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.

Larger doesn't mean better. In the case of M cars - usually means worse. I think it has been proven that the volume of airflow through the radiators is optimized from the factory. Really the only way to get more cooling is to introduce more air to more cooling surface area - oil and water. So if you have a larger or thicker radiator with the same amount of air flow then you will get less cooling.

The quality of airflow is as important as adding coolers. I've been considering moving the OEM radiator forward, closer to the bumper reinforcement, so I can duct the backside of the radiator out of the hood. This would significantly increase air flow through the radiator (and oil cooler) and provide far superior cooling performance. For me, I would be doing for more for oil temp control.

[Cronenberged]

The C&R is cheaper if you buy direct and not from Bimmerworld. it's single pass like the OE radiator and similar in size as well. I'm torn between that and OE myself, only considering OE cause of FCPs warranty where the C&R is only 5 years.

Anyone have good feedback on the do88? Its thicker than stock but they built it around the same dimensions as if the plastic shroud was on it.

[GolanM3]

And yet, it performs worse than stock.

Can you share data to support this statement?

[bigjae46]

Can you share data to support this statement?

Plenty of data on M3Forum.net. Mishimoto is mostly rebranded eBay stuff that they charge 2x-4x the price.

[GolanM3]

Plenty of data on M3Forum.net. Mishimoto is mostly rebranded eBay stuff that they charge 2x-4x the price.

If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?

[Obioban]

If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?

From what I've seen, all the aftermarket options are downgrades. If you need more cooling than stock, your options are removing obstructions (AC condenser, fan shrouds), and better exhausting (hood ducts, etc).

That said, I've never seen anyone that's not FI overheating their car on track with a new stock cooling system. For FI people, I've never seen them solve their overheat issues on track with an aftermarket cooling system.

[bigjae46]

If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?

The OE system, as Obioban mentioned, can be improved with subtraction. The issue is going to be oil cooling. IMO...can only be fixed by adding more coolers.

[t44tq]

I'm about due for a full system refresh, any reason to not go with the OE (not original BMW) kit from FCP? It's like a $600 difference. Specifically, any gripes with the Nissens radiator?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...6m3compcoolkt1

Nissens is low quality crap. Stay away. Now that I've said that, I'm sure a ton of people will chime in, saying that they've no zero issues with Nissens. If you're going to buy an OE type radiator that isn't a genuine BMW boxed radiator, get a Koyo.