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    #46
    Originally posted by Cronenberged View Post
    The C&R is cheaper if you buy direct and not from Bimmerworld. it's single pass like the OE radiator and similar in size as well. I'm torn between that and OE myself, only considering OE cause of FCPs warranty where the C&R is only 5 years.

    Anyone have good feedback on the do88? Its thicker than stock but they built it around the same dimensions as if the plastic shroud was on it.
    do88 radiators have a bad rep with Volvo owners, don't know if anything is different with BMWs- they leak, poor QC seems to be the cause. It's weird, because the companies that do radiators for Corvettes seem to be fine- DeWitts & Ron Davis. But they don't do BMW, generally. And they're both companies that make radiators in the US.

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      #47
      Originally posted by t44tq View Post

      do88 radiators have a bad rep with Volvo owners, don't know if anything is different with BMWs- they leak, poor QC seems to be the cause. It's weird, because the companies that do radiators for Corvettes seem to be fine- DeWitts & Ron Davis. But they don't do BMW, generally. And they're both companies that make radiators in the US.
      Ron Davis makes a radiator http://www.rondavisradiators.com/BMW...3-radiator.htm but not and oil cooler is that what your referencing?

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        #48
        From experience, replacing the fan clutch helps A LOT.

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          #49
          Originally posted by simonnim View Post
          From experience, replacing the fan clutch helps A LOT.
          Replacing the clutch fan with a new clutch fan or going to electric?

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            #50
            Fans really only function when the car is stationary, so
            I assume he means removing it .

            2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
            2012 LMB/Black 128i
            2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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              #51
              I know the consensus is that the factory fan shroud is functional. But what about the two plastic pieces that wrap around the engine from the fan shroud? Can these be deleted without impacting cooling perf?

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                #52
                I would guess that the side pieces aid in creating a pressure differential between the air in front and behind the radiator which increases flow through the radiator.

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                  #53
                  Airflow really is the key- that means removing AC condenser and some cut the hood for better airflow. radiator and oil cooler fins need to have space bt them too. When i removed my oil cooler there was a TON of trash/pebbles/dirt lodged bt the fins. Also go 90-100% water +water wetter.

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                    #54
                    for those who track in hot climates, Curious to know what oil are you using that provide best results?

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by Jevi Javi View Post
                      for those who track in hot climates, Curious to know what oil are you using that provide best results?
                      I use Castrol Edge Supercar 10W60. But the cooling system health is the primary factor in controlling engine temps. And make sure you hood is up right after you are off track.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Originally posted by Estoril View Post

                        make sure you hood is up right after you are off track.
                        I've always done this since I started tracking. Gets all the hot air out from under the hood. I also usually let it run for a while parked with the hood open.
                        "your BMW has how many miles!?"

                        2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
                        2007 GX470

                        build/journal
                        ig: @zzyzx85

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                          #57
                          I don’t think it’s been specifically mentioned, but if you plan to keep your AC, replace the AC condenser. If the fins are bent and blocked by debris, you’ll get less airflow to the radiator. My track temps have been cooler after I deleted both stock fans and installed SPAL fan, OE radiator, and OEM AC condenser. Also have a CSF oil cooler, but I think I’ll be going back to OE soon.

                          I also added 1/4” wire mesh in front of the condenser and oil cooler to protect the fins from larger debris. It works—catches large bugs and track rubber.

                          Pics in case they’re helpful. Hit a coyote so front end was fucked.

                          Click image for larger version

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                          Originally posted by Jevi Javi View Post
                          for those who track in hot climates, Curious to know what oil are you using that provide best results?
                          Castrol 10W60 ran cooler than LM 10W60 in my experience. Have driven the car at TWS, COTA, and MSRH in the Texas summer heat.
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by SQ13; 04-27-2022, 10:48 AM.
                          E46 M3 TiAg/Black - Journal​, IG: sharkmar
                          981 Cayman GTS Racing Yellow/Black
                          C43 AMG Diamond Silver/Red​

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                            #58
                            I’ve tracked in as high as 105° ambient, probably higher on track, always using TWS. No issue.

                            2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                            2012 LMB/Black 128i
                            2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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                              #59
                              Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
                              I don’t think it’s been specifically mentioned, but if you plan to keep your AC, replace the AC condenser. If the fins are bent and blocked by debris, you’ll get less airflow to the radiator. My track temps have been cooler after I deleted both stock fans and installed SPAL fan, OE radiator, and OEM AC condenser. Also have a CSF oil cooler, but I think I’ll be going back to OE soon.

                              I also added 1/4” wire mesh in front of the condenser and oil cooler to protect the fins from larger debris. It works—catches large bugs and track rubber.

                              Pics in case they’re helpful. Hit a coyote so front end was fucked.

                              Click image for larger version

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                              Castrol 10W60 ran cooler than LM 10W60 in my experience. Have driven the car at TWS, COTA, and MSRH in the Texas summer heat.
                              Good stuff, I'm going to change my AC condenser and swap from a CSF oil/rad to new OEM ones.

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                                #60
                                ive been runinng mostly LiquidMoly and Respol with no issues till recently. They are way cheaper than Castrol where I live. But, I'll give Castrol a try again and see if that helps with my heating issues.

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