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Paint costs? Front end

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    #31
    Here's an example of how the car sits currently, just the rear right quarter but the rest of the body/paint is in the same condition. Top of the rear bumper isn't clear, it's fuzzy which means it's oxidized to a degree and will probably start fading in the future. This is after my 2-step correction.

    edit: that's dirt on the car btw, there are no major blemishes except swirls and what not.
    Last edited by WestBankM4; 11-30-2022, 09:15 PM.

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      #32
      Originally posted by WestBankM4 View Post
      Bringing this thread back as I have a little aesthetic project here and I'd like some feedback, Bay Area Cali.

      2003 M3 Carbon Black Metallic. Garaged it's whole life minus sitting outside for 4-years straight, PO started it on occasion but she baked in the California summers. I did a 2-step paint correction myself when acquired as the PO sprayed half the body in plasti-dip in anticipation of it being outside for an extended period. I didn't use a super abrasive compound but it came out better than I had initially anticipated. I think if I had a professional do the job, they'd remove the majority of the swirls/blemishes and would be back to near perfect. The chassis is clean and the paint thick, with one or two minor dings PDR can fix on the body. With that said these are the parts I've acquired and ready to install,

      Karbonius CSL Trunk
      OEM Euro Front Bumper
      Vorsteiner Rear Diffusor

      I have two little dings in the hood, I don't think I can reach them with PDR so I'm opting for the shop to repair it. Any issues repairing an aluminum hood with body filler? I'd hate to use that stuff, but they're super super small dings, can't reach them unfortunately.

      My plan is to have the new Euro front bumper sprayed, at the same time paint the hood entirely and blend in the fenders. Is this a good idea to blend into the fenders or should I just paint them whole? They're in good shape, minus a couple of small rock chips.

      For the rear, I plan on painting the CSL trunk and rear diffusor, should I paint the rear bumper as well or blend into that? After reading this thread, I'm going to opt for them to not touch the rear quarter panels if it's not needed. If I paint the whole rear bumper will it look ridiculous without blending into the quarters, if I don't paint the full rear bumper will the diffusor and CSL trunk look completely off?

      I'm not expert in body work, is it normal for customers to purchase their own paint? A forum member purchased Glasurit on his own and plans on having a shop spray it. Should I be looking for Glasurit? Apparently it's not recommended anymore and technology has moved on with equipment so some shops may not have guns that can spray that thick of a compound? Is that correct or am I talking out of my ass. Thanks in advance, I'm an absolute noob when it comes to anything body work related.
      It isn't normal for the customer to supply paint and quite frankly the shop I worked at would have sent the customer on their way. I want the painter shooting what they and shop are comfortable with and will stand behind. I'm assuming you have done your due diligence and are having a good shop do the work.

      In the end the shop matters, not so much the paint, assuming you aren't taking it to jimmy bob's backyard paint service and the guy has only ever shot one paint in his life.
      3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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        #33
        Originally posted by oceansize View Post

        It isn't normal for the customer to supply paint and quite frankly the shop I worked at would have sent the customer on their way. I want the painter shooting what they and shop are comfortable with and will stand behind. I'm assuming you have done your due diligence and are having a good shop do the work.

        In the end the shop matters, not so much the paint, assuming you aren't taking it to jimmy bob's backyard paint service and the guy has only ever shot one paint in his life.
        Agree with all of this. IMHO, Glasurit is not mandatory. This time a year ago, I thought it was. My car (entire respray) is not Glasurit. I asked the shop if they could use it, even if I was willing to pay for it. I got a looooong and very detailed explanation from their painter as to why he chose to shoot only certain bases, colors and clears. I trusted them after looking at their work - and in particular, their painter's work - and saw how good it was on a wide variety of cars and trucks.

        Also, don't cheap out on the shop. Ask lots of questions. You'll know when you've connected with the right shop. Trust but verify. If the painter tells you they are Bob Ross reincarnated, ask to see some examples of happy little trees he's painted.

        Good luck! Can't wait to see the final results!

        Edit: this is my 1,000th post! 🥳
        Last edited by Casa de Mesa; 12-01-2022, 06:24 PM.
        Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

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          #34
          Thanks for the replies, the shop and painter are in the peninsula and actually sprayed this Alpine White Vorsteiner Diffuser over a decade ago. He'll be doing it again, heard great things about his work.

          That's a solid copy on the glasurit, just thought it may be better for panel blending as it's all original paint on it currently.

          Thanks for the replies boys.

          HAPPY 1,000TH POST. Glad you popped your cherry with my reply. 💥

          Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

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            #35
            Originally posted by WestBankM4 View Post
            HAPPY 1,000TH POST. Glad you popped your cherry with my reply. 💥
            Lol! 1,001...
            Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

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