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My turn signals are high on crack.

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    My turn signals are high on crack.

    Hey everyone, I have a persistent issue with my front turn signals. These issues all come and go seemingly at random, worse after the car has been washed or it rains.

    - Rear signals are fine. Problem only occurs in front.
    - Every time I turn on the car, the first time I indicate right, the blinkers go super fast for a few seconds, then they go normal speed. They stay at normal speed until I shut the car off. Problem repeats every time the car starts again.
    - The right side parking light actually fluctuates brightness. At night you can see it get brighter and then get dimmer like a candle. It's wild and I have never seen a light on a car do this.
    - When I remove the bulb, the rear contact of the bulb looks melted. Small bits of metal fall out of the socket. Socket is corroded/torched.
    - I have replaced both sockets and bulbs twice. The problem comes back quickly.
    - The left blinker will intermittently stop working, and start again sometimes a few minutes later, some times an hour, or a day later.
    - Rarely, the left headlight will also not work, but will come back to life like the blinker.
    - No codes relating to voltage, alternator is pretty new, battery is charged.

    So clearly there's something going on, I just don't know where to start. Maybe it's a bad ground somewhere, I've attached some pictures showing what the sockets and bulbs look like. Any help is appreciated!

    Click image for larger version

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    http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
    '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
    '01 M3, Imola/black

    #2
    Could the LCM be acting up? I would start with checking the grounds first as that's the easiest but LCM seems possible.
    "your BMW has how many miles!?"

    2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
    2007 GX470

    build/journal
    ig: @zzyzx85

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by zzyzx85 View Post
      Could the LCM be acting up? I would start with checking the grounds first as that's the easiest but LCM seems possible.
      Meaning on the socket plugs?
      http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
      '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
      '01 M3, Imola/black

      Comment


        #4
        I would check along the wiring harness. There should be ground points?
        "your BMW has how many miles!?"

        2003 M3 coupe - Imolarot/Black 6 M/T - JRZ - Ground Control - Volk Racing - Karbonius - SuperSprint - Recaro - Schroth
        2007 GX470

        build/journal
        ig: @zzyzx85

        Comment


          #5
          I’ve come across someone else that had this issue. I’ve compared the new Genuine BMW replacement to originals. The newer bulb sockets from BMW are different from originals. For some reason they pit the bulb base. Might try some dielectric grease.
          6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

          Comment


            #6
            The bulbs appear to have contacts that are heavily deteriorated. They should have a rather pronounced "bump", yours seem to be...melted? Try replacing bulbs with new ones.
            BMW / E46M Interior & Trim Restoration.
            https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...ch-restoration

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post
              The bulbs appear to have contacts that are heavily deteriorated. They should have a rather pronounced "bump", yours seem to be...melted? Try replacing bulbs with new ones.
              Yup those bulbs are worn out.

              Comment


                #8
                The bottom contact on the bulbs is basically just a blob of solder connected to one of the leads of the filament. Looks like something is melting that solder and it's being transferred to the socket. The connection deteriorates because of this, probably causes some sparking and then more melting.

                Had that happen recently on my car too. I just reflowed the solder on the bulb and it's been fine. Could never figure out what caused it though. I thought it might be that I set the dimmed turn signals to be on with DRLs and they were getting too hot. However, I measured them to be around 280F when fully up to temp, so not really enough to be melting solder. Do you do a lot of night driving or otherwise drive with the turn signals on (dimmed) most of the time?

                Other possibly I thought of was that the contact on the socket got bent over time and would not fully make contact with the bulb. This could cause sparking and eventually melt the solder. However, you said you replaced the sockets already, so this theory doesn't seem too likely.

                Regardless, something is causing that solder to melt, which makes it look like stuff is corroding.
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks guys, yea my thing is I'd like to get to the root of the issue, because it's not normal for bulbs to basically melt on the contact like that. I can keep replace the bulbs and sockets indefinitely, sure, but is that really the best solution? Like I said before this is now the second set of sockets and bulbs, I have a new 3rd set in a box from FCP on my desk. At least I can return them forever I guess LMAO.
                  http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                  '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                  '01 M3, Imola/black

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Previously my left turn signal experienced this issue and today my right turn signal did too.

                    Melted bulb contact:

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                    Pitted socket:

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                    This also came out of the socket. Looks like small solder beads:

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                    I disabled the turn signals on with the DRLs this weekend, so haven't been able to test the theory of that causing things to get too hot. Guess we'll see.

                    Also, I'm pretty sure the marks on the socket contact are pitting and not solder transfer. Tried melting them with the soldering iron and wasn't able to. Guess there was some arcing happening in between the bulb and contact and that caused the solder to melt. I bent the contact up a bit to try and have the best connection possible. Still not sure exactly what the cause of this is though.

                    Ended up reflowing the solder on the bottom of the bulb, like I did for the other one. Took about a minute so whatever. We'll have to see how long this lasts:

                    Click image for larger version  Name:	20220531_225731.jpg Views:	0 Size:	41.8 KB ID:	170128
                    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
                      Thanks guys, yea my thing is I'd like to get to the root of the issue, because it's not normal for bulbs to basically melt on the contact like that..
                      No problem and no mystery.

                      1. Do you have high moisture in the light housing/lamp?
                      2. The bulb lead blob was melted by the heat, not arcing or by any UFO played with your M3. But why it was heated so high?
                      3. Oxidation on the copper or brass leaf that contacts the bulb lead blob. Clean it up shiny, and clean the bulb base to shiny lead, then add dielectric grease on the leaf surface and the bulb base, install. Keep the light housing from collecting water. Problem fixed and I guarantee it.

                      Nothing else is wrong -- not wiring nor LCM.
                      Last edited by sapote; 06-04-2022, 12:16 PM.

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                        #12
                        Remember about many houses in the US, after WW 2, burned down due to using aluminum wires and mixing with aluminum and copper contact? Dissimilar metal contact creates corrosion which led to higher contact resistance, which led to heat generated, then fire.

                        Power (heat in this case) = square(current) x resistance (corrosion in this case)

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                          #13
                          The hot temperature might had annealed and weaken the brass leaf, so you need to pull it out a little to have more contact force on the bulb base, for a low contact RESISTANCE.
                          Last edited by sapote; 06-04-2022, 12:16 PM.

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                            #14
                            This is a good read to understand the problem:
                            https://www.howtolookatahouse.com/Bl...on%20and%20Use.

                            Click image for larger version

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                              #15
                              Do you have the BMW iPod interface? That was the cause of my problem years ago.. pulled it out, and problem fixed.

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