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Strut Mount and Camber Plate Comparison

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    #16
    Good info here, well done!

    I've used GC street plates and despite claims that they don't introduce NVH, they absolutely did. Not only were they much harsher than OE strut mounts, they clunked really badly. I tried two sets of brand new units and they both clunked. I had the street version with the B12 kit. I installed them properly using all provided hardware, tried both with and without OE strut spacer, but they still clunked. Not sure how this is acceptable to those who use them but I wouldn't recommend them. I replaced them with OE strut mounts and all clunking went away. I only used these to increase bump travel but to be honest, I found the harshness of the GC plates worse for compliance than the reduced travel with B12 kit when using OE strut mounts.
    Last edited by PetrolM3; 03-14-2024, 07:14 AM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by PetrolM3 View Post
      Good info here, well done!

      I've used GC street plates and despite claims that they don't introduce NVH, they absolutely did. Not only were they much harsher than OE strut mounts, they clunked really badly. I tried two sets of brand new units and they both clunked. I had the street version with the B12 kit. I installed them properly using all provided hardware, tried both with and without OE strut spacer, but they still clunked. Not sure how this is acceptable to those who use them but I wouldn't recommend them. I replaced them with OE strut mounts and all clunking went away. I only used these to increase bump travel but to be honest, I found the harshness of the GC plates worse for compliance than the reduced travel with B12 kit when using OE strut mounts.
      That's a weird one. I've got GC street with the GC coilovers and I have no clunk and if they introduced NVH I didn't notice. Around 8k miles on them currently (not a track car).
      Last edited by oceansize; 03-14-2024, 07:39 AM.
      3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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        #18
        Originally posted by D-O View Post

        Odd. It looks to me like Ground Control will make them to accommodate the smaller TCK strut shaft and 60mm spring. Please let us know what he says.

        There is also talk that E36 top hats will work on the E46 with the TCK SA's, but I cannot find exact details on what is required to make it fit.
        He's short with his words over email, here is a direct quote from today:

        "Non-M plates are needed because the dimensions are different and the M plates don’t fit with our struts."

        I don't know what's right or wrong here, just passing along info he's given me. If you or Tbonem3 is knowledgable enough to have this conversation with him and decypher what's really going on he does answer the phone.

        It would be super helpful for me as I'm on the verge of purchasing suspension parts.

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          #19
          Just guessing here, but I bet it has to do with 14mm versus 16mm shaft and/or maybe the square shoulder (koni) versus tapered (bilstein).

          I solved my issue (that TMS plates only work with 16mm not 14mm - my MCS are 14mm) by using some bronze bearings that were 14mm ID and 16mm od. It perfectly picked up the slack and filled out the TMS bearing 16mm ID.

          If anyone has a specific question about fitment or compatability, feel free to PM me. Once I know the details, I bet I can figure it out.
          DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
          /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
          More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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            #20
            Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
            Just guessing here, but I bet it has to do with 14mm versus 16mm shaft and/or maybe the square shoulder (koni) versus tapered (bilstein).

            I solved my issue (that TMS plates only work with 16mm not 14mm - my MCS are 14mm) by using some bronze bearings that were 14mm ID and 16mm od. It perfectly picked up the slack and filled out the TMS bearing 16mm ID.

            If anyone has a specific question about fitment or compatability, feel free to PM me. Once I know the details, I bet I can figure it out.
            I tried to probe further and will wait to hear back. If it was the shaft diameter though would non-m plates make a difference ?

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              #21
              Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

              I'll ask again what the reason is, but he actually said the plates wouldn't work when I asked about GC Streets(m3 version).
              The non-M vorshlag plates allow for more than -3.0 degree camber at close to stock height. You lose caster but the Vorshlag plate has enough caster to get back to around 7.5 degrees.

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                #22
                D-O Tbonem3 bigjae46 Ok so here is the followup email. This, clears it up, i think? 🤨


                Me: About the dimensions you mention, which are you referring to? Is the strut shaft diameter the issue? Would love to hear more because I still don't understand the issue.​


                TCK: Yes. Shaft diameter varies on M3 struts​.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                  You can run non-M plates and get a significant increase in negative camber. Perfect for track, probably too much for street driving.
                  Is this true for all brands of plates?

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by oceansize View Post

                    That's a weird one. I've got GC street with the GC coilovers and I have no clunk and if they introduced NVH I didn't notice. Around 8k miles on them currently (not a track car).
                    This is my experience as well. Only had them for about a year and a half and maybe 3-4k miles, but absolutely no noise from my GC street plates. Also didn't notice any NVH. If there was any, it wasn't significant. Still a very comfortable car unless you hit a big pothole.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
                      D-O Tbonem3 bigjae46 Ok so here is the followup email. This, clears it up, i think? 🤨


                      Me: About the dimensions you mention, which are you referring to? Is the strut shaft diameter the issue? Would love to hear more because I still don't understand the issue.​


                      TCK: Yes. Shaft diameter varies on M3 struts​.
                      I thought the TCK struts were the same for all E46s. I think the complication is the shoulder on the shaft where the plate sits on is different which causes an issue with most plates. Most use the TCK plate, Vorshlag makes a TCK specific plate, not sure about the others…doubt it.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Ubaderb View Post

                        Is this true for all brands of plates?
                        Not sure. You do need to have a caster adjustment to add the caster back that you lose. I’d guess that any plate with a caster adjustment should yield a similar result.

                        if it doesn’t have a caster adjustment, probably not a huge deal but it should work.

                        Again, never tried. My Vorshlag plates have been flawless for almost 13 years. Never had to try a different plate on this car.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by 01SG View Post

                          This is my experience as well. Only had them for about a year and a half and maybe 3-4k miles, but absolutely no noise from my GC street plates. Also didn't notice any NVH. If there was any, it wasn't significant. Still a very comfortable car unless you hit a big pothole.
                          Do you guys have any other mods that would 'hide' the NVH? Poly/solid bushings, coilovers, loud exhaust? If your car is otherwise stock and all you changed is the top mounts for GC street plates, you must be able to notice the change - it's impossible not to.

                          I also recall several others on this forum complaining of clunks with GC street plates so I know I'm not the only one. Not sure why some clunk and others don't but as I said, I tried two separate sets both brand new. There's a small chance I had two lemon sets but then again, several other people on this forum alone complained of the clunking as well as increase in NVH. Some of these members ended up removing them and went back to OE or some other brand but GC certainly lost my trust and I wouldn't get them again... my 2 cents.
                          Last edited by PetrolM3; 03-15-2024, 07:34 AM.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by PetrolM3 View Post

                            Do you guys have any other mods that would 'hide' the NVH? Poly/solid bushings, coilovers, loud exhaust? If your car is otherwise stock and all you changed is the top mounts for GC street plates, you must be able to notice the change - it's impossible not to.
                            No other mods for me but Bilstein shocks and solid subframe bushings, otherwise all refreshed OEM.

                            I think your problem probably stems from using them with the lowering springs. Maybe it's inconsistent manufacturing, or they updated the design at some point..who knows. But I can say for sure I'm happy with mine, absolutely no noise and good ride quality.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by PetrolM3 View Post

                              Do you guys have any other mods that would 'hide' the NVH? Poly/solid bushings, coilovers, loud exhaust? If your car is otherwise stock and all you changed is the top mounts for GC street plates, you must be able to notice the change - it's impossible not to.

                              I also recall several others on this forum complaining of clunks with GC street plates so I know I'm not the only one. Not sure why some clunk and others don't but as I said, I tried two separate sets both brand new. There's a small chance I had two lemon sets but then again, several other people on this forum alone complained of the clunking as well as increase in NVH. Some of these members ended up removing them and went back to OE or some other brand but GC certainly lost my trust and I wouldn't get them again... my 2 cents.
                              All stock up front other than coilovers, end links, and strut tower reinforcement plates. No clunk, no NVH. I'm not being a disagreeable idiot either, I seriously don't have any issues. All of my rubber suspension bits (from front to rear), motor mounts, etc. were replaced around 7k miles ago so I'm nice and fresh.
                              3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                                #30
                                I used to work on these e46s when they were new as a tech and I’m sensitive to NVH. I installed, then removed both GC street upper strut bearings and solid RTAB monoballs due to NVH on my personal car. It’s a subtle change and I can easily see how most would not notice the difference. I think this comes down to personal tolerance and feel. I will say the NVH difference for the RTABs was more pronounced than the front upper strut mounts. No clunking, just a different tone and feel from sharper impacts, a different sort of thud.

                                You can’t really get around this, GC uses urethane bushings which inherently won’t have the same stiffness and damping as thick rubber with a large shear area. You trade better damper control for NVH isolation. In this case it really is a trade. Personally, I’d choose either solid uppers for great damper control OR stock for NVH, but its dealer’s choice here.
                                ‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion

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