Hello everyone, car wont go into gear at high rpm but low rpm is smooth as butter(doesn't matter the gear). Anything after 4k+ rpm just wont let me in i have to wait till rpms drop. I bled the clutch to see if it resolves the issue it did not and also replaced tranny mounts with rogue ones the issue still persists. The car has 92k miles original clutch and flywheel. If anyone has an idea or had the issue and resolved it please let me know, Thanks!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Car wont shift at high rpm 02 6mt
Collapse
X
-
This sounds like what happened to me and after exhausting every other option I pulled the tranny to find that:
(1) The plastic pivot pin (#6) had snapped which meant the fork (#5) was flopping about when it should only be able to pivot forward / back when actuated by the slave cylinder
(2) The throwout bearing had a pretty nasty crack in it, presumably because of the uneven pressure applied to it due to (1); I drove with the car like this for longer than I care to admit
(3) The clutch was original at 180k miles and absolutely toast
Ended up doing the clutch / flywheel and all the surrounding parts while the tranny was out. Also opted for the stainless steel pin BMW offers for other models so that it never happens again.
See my thread here.
Last edited by dukeofchen; 09-23-2022, 04:34 PM.'04 LSB Coupe 6MT
- Likes 1
-
Does it feel like you are running into a "wall" shifting at high RPM and does it grind if you can force it into gear?Originally posted by joem3 View PostHello everyone, car wont go into gear at high rpm but low rpm is smooth as butter(doesn't matter the gear). Anything after 4k+ rpm just wont let me in i have to wait till rpms drop. I bled the clutch to see if it resolves the issue it did not and also replaced tranny mounts with rogue ones the issue still persists. The car has 92k miles original clutch and flywheel. If anyone has an idea or had the issue and resolved it please let me know, Thanks!
I have had this issue during very hard driving situations, namely drag racing with this car the handful of times I've tried.2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
Instagram
Comment
-
Thanks for the info, so you think I should drop the trans changed the clutch flywheel and all surrounding parts?Originally posted by dukeofchen View PostThis sounds like what happened to me and after exhausting every other option I pulled the tranny to find that:
(1) The plastic pivot pin (#6) had snapped which meant the fork (#5) was flopping about when it should only be able to pivot forward / back when actuated by the slave cylinder
(2) The throwout bearing had a pretty nasty crack in it, presumably because of the uneven pressure applied to it due to (1); I drove with the car like this for longer than I care to admit
(3) The clutch was original at 180k miles and absolutely toast
Ended up doing the clutch / flywheel and all the surrounding parts while the tranny was out. Also opted for the stainless steel pin BMW offers for other models so that it never happens again.
See my thread here.
Comment
-
It feels like when it stops you from downshifting into the wrong gear. For example going 70 and trying to drop into second. and NO grinds whatsoever. Just blocks me from going into any gear until the rpm drops. at low rpm (under 3k) it rows through gears completely normal.Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
Does it feel like you are running into a "wall" shifting at high RPM and does it grind if you can force it into gear?
I have had this issue during very hard driving situations, namely drag racing with this car the handful of times I've tried.
Comment
-
When up shifting, or down? Of course it was a mismatch on rpm and wheel speed, and the synchro for some reasons couldn't change the gear speed to match its counterpart. The reason, most of the time, is by the clutch not totally released.Originally posted by joem3 View PostAnything after 4k+ rpm just wont let me in i have to wait till rpms drop.
To check: park on inclined driveway or road, shift in 1st gear, engine off, clutch pedal up, no braking, then slowly push down the clutch pedal until car rolls down, the pedal should be about 1" to 1.5" higher than the stopper.
Comment
-
I would check everything else off before resorting to that, but it does sound very similar to my case. Like you I bled the clutch and replaced the mounts, and also checked the detent springs and refreshed the shift mechanism which were pretty unlikely suspects, at which point there wasn’t much else to check or do without dropping the trans. Would do the test Sapote suggested as well.Originally posted by joem3 View Post
Thanks for the info, so you think I should drop the trans changed the clutch flywheel and all surrounding parts?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by dukeofchen; 09-23-2022, 11:16 PM.'04 LSB Coupe 6MT
Comment
-
A worn out clutch might be slipping; your issue was caused by clutch disk not completely disengaged as pointed out in my first post and how to check.Originally posted by joem3 View PostMy issue turned out to be a worn out clutch. If you have a new clutch and new hardware your issue might be different. What pivot pin did you use? just curious.
Comment
-
It must have kind of exploded in order to not able to disengage completely from FW and PP. If just worn down smooth then it wouldn’t cause clutch dragging problem as you had, unless other parts had problems such as slave cylinder or pivot pin or PP.Originally posted by joem3 View PostWhen i removed clutch it was perfectly worn out, no heat spots at all. You might be right it might have caused it to not engage at high rpm for that exact reason.
Comment
-
Weirdly all of the components you named were fine upon inspection, but I replaced anyway. Thats why i made the assumption of clutch culprit because thats the only thing that was worn out completely.Originally posted by sapote View PostIt must have kind of exploded in order to not able to disengage completely from FW and PP. If just worn down smooth then it wouldn't cause clutch dragging problem as you had, unless other parts had problems such as slave cylinder or pivot pin or PP.
Comment

Comment