Throttle Position Sensor Codes (#2 / Cross Check / Position Failure)

[PSUEng]

Well in my latest EML code list, using an old BavAuto reader, seems I have some throttle issues:
1) 77 for TPS #2
2) 78 for TPS cross check
3) E6 "Drive by wire throttle position failure"

TPS #2 seems obvious--from what I can tell, #2 is the one under the intake, part 13637840383. Searched around and seems this one is the most difficult and I'll probably replace the one near the oil filter as well.

Anyone have any tips for intake removal (hose clamps, etc.)? Anything else worthwhile (within reason) to replace that is done easily with the intake off? I've not had the intake off before, so this will be first time through.

But E6 for the throttle position failure, that one has me stumped. Not much on this forum to be found; hope it's actually not the actuator.

Any input is appreciated!

EDIT: I wonder if this could be the cause of my "thud" I posted in another thread. If the gas pedal, TPS#1 and TPS#2 don't agree--then this may lead to shifting problems I would think--problems like, when I'm on/off the gas, the response at the actuator is off. Hmmm. I also see separate actuator codes E4 and E5 for actuator failure, so, hopefully it's not that.

[Mr.wReckless]

Common to at least clean the ICV while the intake is off. I got normal worm clamps for the intake boots, I have the normal clamps and even the suitable tool but just could not get them fitted as it seems for me at least, the new clamps needed to be tightened just that bit more to latch and I wasn't strong enough. Gave up and used normal clamps instead, just make sure the throttle bodies don't foul anything as even a minute snag will set off a code. You could also think about cleaning and lubing the throttle body shaft, but be mindful about the type of lubrication and don't use stuff that will attract more gunk and work against the idea of cleaning and lubing.

Regards

[heinzboehmer]

Anyone have any tips for intake removal (hose clamps, etc.)?
Anything else worthwhile (within reason) to replace that is done easily with the intake off? I've not had the intake off before, so this will be first time through.

I would reuse the stock clamps. Worm clamps can interfere with the throttle linkage and cause more problems. Here's how: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...le-body-clamps

Also, the two hoses underneath the intake will be a pain to remove if they've never been off before. I've had to use pliers on the big one before to get it off. The small one is easiest to get off by sticking your hand in the intake and pushing on it. Might need to push it with a small socket or something.

[dukeofchen]

This is a pretty decent guide for intake manifold removal. I would also take a few minutes to clean the visible parts of the throttle bodies with some throttle body cleaner and a q-tip or similar. Some wedge / prop open the throttle linkage to clean beyond the butterfly valves, but there's a risk of mangling your fingers if you aren't careful so I probably wouldn't bother unless it looks really bad in there.

I've reused the stock oetiker clamps several times without issue. I tried to replace them with properly sized worm gear clamps but found it didn't make things much simpler since they require careful positioning so as not to impede the throttle linkage. The type of pliers shown in that DIY supposedly make removing stock clamps much easier, but after struggling through it the first few times I can get them on pretty quickly with standard 3" pliers and a good amount of body english.

Something else worth doing might be a partial replacement your PS fluid with the turkey baster method since you'll have much easier access than with the intake on.

[Mr.wReckless]

Watching that video in the link makes it look easy, but I swear, either I got the wrong clamps, as I remember I had to use WAY more force with the tool to even be in the vicinity of being able to hook the clamp on that lock, I even tried to bend the locking tab on the clamp to get it to hook using the correct tool. And by way more force I could see clamp dig deep into the rubber coupler, it didn't feel right so in the end I gave up and used worm clamps.

Regards

[silvergraym3]

i have this same code and i already replaced the tps and the actuator next is the gas pedal. did you ever figure out what was wrong??

[PSUEng]

i have this same code and i already replaced the tps and the actuator next is the gas pedal. did you ever figure out what was wrong??

Nope, I cleared the codes and haven't come back. However, I did order replacement TPS' and plan to replace them at some point.

So which TPS did you replace? I think the actuator itself throws its own codes, no?