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    #31
    Originally posted by Dafoe View Post
    My favorite job! It's so rewarding when you first drive the car.

    Some things I use for these jogs...
    • PB Blaster! Soak all fasteners first!
    • Wine cork for the hard coolant line
    • Rubber Glove to tie off the coolant tank
    • 1/4 snapon cordless ratchet (or similar small ratchet)
    • 1/4 11mm swivel socket
    • VERY good set of wrenches for the rear part of section one... those fasteners will be RUSTED LIKE HELL! When they round off, I use this tool which holds them without rounding. Usually it's forward fasteners that will round off https://shop.snapon.com/product/Plie...er-Wrench/PWZ1
    • Use colored tape, or something to mark the O2 sensor wires up top before you unplug them from each other.
    • O2 sensor socket and 1/2 breaker bar, just in case they're seized.
    Will a similar wrench like this work for the section 1 to 2 rounded off bolts?...


    The snap-on one looks great, but more money than I can spend at the moment for a tool.
    Garage:
    2002 BMW M3: Slicktop jetblack/cinnamon. SMG to 6-speed. Arc-8's. Koni yellows/Dinan springs. Macht elbow. Megan headers. Stock section 1+AR20. SCZA section 3.
    1998 Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel: Pizza bag warmer.

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by Circa Surviven View Post

      Will a similar wrench like this work for the section 1 to 2 rounded off bolts?...


      The snap-on one looks great, but more money than I can spend at the moment for a tool.
      These work quite well.
      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
      Instagram

      Comment


        #33
        I'd lower the whole exhaust, saves you from extra gaskets and it's not that many bolts holding it to the car, 4 at the rear and 8 for the 2 center mounts plus the 3 for the v-brace. Leaves you plenty of space to angle grind the rounded bolts off.

        Regards

        Comment


          #34
          I attached a photo of 2 studs that came out. Is it possible to retighten on the head without the header and then try and get the nut off again or would I risk stripping something?
          Attached Files
          Garage:
          2002 BMW M3: Slicktop jetblack/cinnamon. SMG to 6-speed. Arc-8's. Koni yellows/Dinan springs. Macht elbow. Megan headers. Stock section 1+AR20. SCZA section 3.
          1998 Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel: Pizza bag warmer.

          Comment


            #35
            I wouldn't risk stripping the head. Throw them in some vinegar for awhile and remove as is. Another technique is melted wax, etc.

            Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by Circa Surviven View Post
              I attached a photo of 2 studs that came out. Is it possible to retighten on the head without the header and then try and get the nut off again or would I risk stripping something?
              Use double nut method with some PB Blaster and you should be able to re-use the studs. Just always, ALWAYS make sure your stud hole is clean and when you do final run down of stud use a bit of anti-sieze.
              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
              Instagram

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by Circa Surviven View Post
                I attached a photo of 2 studs that came out. Is it possible to retighten on the head without the header and then try and get the nut off again or would I risk stripping something?
                I would just do it on the bench. Attached a pic to aid in communication. I know it's a bolt, but just imagine it's a stud with a seized nut, like what you have.

                Spray them with a bunch of penetrant. Then put two nuts (red + green arrows) on the free side of the stud and tighten them against each other to lock them. Hold by the nut closest to the center (red arrow) and use a ratchet to remove the seized nut (blue arrow).

                Click image for larger version  Name:	maxresdefault~4.jpg Views:	0 Size:	39.4 KB ID:	101571

                Or just get some new studs (they're not too expensive).​
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by M3GA View Post
                  I wouldn't risk stripping the head. Throw them in some vinegar for awhile and remove as is. Another technique is melted wax, etc.

                  Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
                  This would definitely be a safer option, or better yet get some new studs. Have a local BMW dealer? Could get them very quickly.
                  2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                  Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                  Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                  OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                  RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                  2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                  Instagram

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Thank y'all! Ill go to dealer to see how long it would take to get some in. Shipping from fcpeuro takes a week and I want to get the car off jack stands. Is it okay to use just a couple of the torx ended studs with proper nuts instead of replacing them with the same kind that needs the two nut method?

                    On another note, I found some solid wine corks that plugged the coolant lines well at target. Hardware store didn't have the proper size.
                    Attached Files
                    Garage:
                    2002 BMW M3: Slicktop jetblack/cinnamon. SMG to 6-speed. Arc-8's. Koni yellows/Dinan springs. Macht elbow. Megan headers. Stock section 1+AR20. SCZA section 3.
                    1998 Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel: Pizza bag warmer.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by Circa Surviven View Post
                      Thank y'all! Ill go to dealer to see how long it would take to get some in. Shipping from fcpeuro takes a week and I want to get the car off jack stands. Is it okay to use just a couple of the torx ended studs with proper nuts instead of replacing them with the same kind that needs the two nut method?

                      On another note, I found some solid wine corks that plugged the coolant lines well at target. Hardware store didn't have the proper size.
                      Go ahead and use the etorx studs if you have them but your dealer could likely overnight some factory studs free of charge.

                      Nice find on the corks, looks like a solid plug. For what it's worth the 2nd and 3rd time I removed the coolant overflow reservoir I pumped it out first beforehand and used tinfoil to wrap and parts that may get coolant on them from the metal coolant line, so much less mess, coolant isn't fun to clean up.

                      Just go easy on the bolt holding down the overflow res., I went too tight and broke the tab, it bothers me enough I may have to get a new one.
                      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                      Instagram

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by Circa Surviven View Post
                        On another note, I found some solid wine corks that plugged the coolant lines well at target. Hardware store didn't have the proper size.
                        Great thinking!
                        '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Swivel socket and a tiny 11mm open ended. It’s honestly not the worst job in the world. 45 min max to remove all the nuts.

                          Make sure you have brand new OEM gaskets... don’t overlook this or you will HATE YOURSELF when you need to redo the job.

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