Originally posted by digger
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
I am not worried about that region - track only. I might touch upper 3k a few times but usually it will be on purpose where I stay in a higher gear to deaden the torque because of a bump or tricky corner.
The BW race is all about weight savings and top end power. I think if you move the merge back it will add unnecessary weight for those who would buy this. You certainly wouldn't put a BW race on for the sound.
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Originally posted by digger View Post
to boost 2.5-4k you could experiment with exactly doubling (or close to it) the current merge distance (which would still be slightly shorter/less than the stock merge distance by looks of it) but it will likely soften 4-5k a bit as a compromise but shouldnt hurt anyting above 5k. its expensive doing custom exhausts and hard to undo , so it depends how much it bothers you for the type of use
i am suprised nobody as brought something similar to market as a bit less of a compromise and the 6-2-1 is the superior power setup over 6-2-H/X-2 with other advantages to boot
The BW race is all about weight savings and top end power. I think if you move the merge back it will add unnecessary weight for those who would buy this. You certainly wouldn't put a BW race on for the sound.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
i am suprised nobody as brought something similar to market as a bit less of a compromise and the 6-2-1 is the superior power setup over 6-2-H/X-2 with other advantages to boot
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
Thanks for the insight!
I had your canned tune for awhile and worked flawlessly for years! Very happy with it! Dyno’d at 325whp with it.
I switched because I needed a detune for a NASA class.
Originally posted by Darbshaw View Post
This is promising, almost identical to my current build. BW race is the sections 1,2,3 correct? My only difference would be having the street/track which has a stock section 1. I'm curious where I'll fall and if I have that same low rpm dip.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
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Originally posted by Nardo S54 View Post
Funny enough I am going through same thing based on feedback from Epic. I am trying to stuff the largest cone filter inside the factory airbox (goal being more flow without the heat). I’d be happy just getting to 310whp…
And I agree with above, I’d use heat reflective tape around the intake pipe and heat shield to see if that helps work lower IATs.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
It's crappy. Randy pointed out that being aluminum it absorbs a lot of heat which could help explain why the car sucks in hotter temps. He also noticed my IATs were high on the dyno. Randy recommended plasti-dip'ing it. Doing that now, we'll see if it helps.
Thinking of what the alternative will be,
And I agree with above, I’d use heat reflective tape around the intake pipe and heat shield to see if that helps work lower IATs.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
It's crappy. Randy pointed out that being aluminum it absorbs a lot of heat which could help explain why the car sucks in hotter temps. He also noticed my IATs were high on the dyno. Randy recommended plasti-dip'ing it. Doing that now, we'll see if it helps.
Thinking of what the alternative will be,
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Originally posted by Nardo S54 View Post
Very impressive - how do you like your crappy Injen intake? is it modified in anyway?
Thinking of what the alternative will be,
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
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Originally posted by paulclaude View Post
Nice power for the spec! The dip low down is due to the merge after the headers on the BW race. You won't be able to tune that out without moving the merge point in the exhaust to further back in the system (i.e. running dual pipes, then merging into single).
I had your canned tune for awhile and worked flawlessly for years! Very happy with it! Dyno’d at 325whp with it.
I switched because I needed a detune for a NASA class.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
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