3D Printed Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate Intake (Louder intake noise)

[TeddybearCup]

Currently available here:
https://3dwardprinting.com/collectio...wap-compatible

1/18/23: I splurged on the stiffest strongest filament I can reasonably print, 3DXtech Carbon Fiber polycarbonate.
This is several times stiffer than pure polycarbonate, and stiffness made a fairly significant impact on sound.

Got tired of my K&N running funky and decided to 3D print a MAF housing to perfectly transition from a velocity stack to MAF to OEM elbow.
Result: It no longer wavers at idle!
Bonus, WAYYYY larger surface area (Part: aFe 21-91035), and a smoother transition into the MAF.
Was super happy that the MAF opening design I did made for a perfect friction fit with the O ring and the offset amount on the screws was perfect.

Sound is slightly so different from the K&N, similarly loud but a tad more sonorous?

Next steps:

• I accidentally offset the MAF screws backwards in Fusion towards the elbow instead of toward the intake, so will be reprinting with that fixed.
• Am also waiting on a CF bellmouth (Part AF64-4971) to come from Australia to shave down a bit of weight and have an elliptical bellmouth profile vs the circular on this cheap Spectre (Part: Spectre Performance 9605).
• Will try for a silicone elbow, too. The flex in the ribs are actually pretty nice actually!
• Redo the air blockoff because between the CSL SMG fluid tank and this new filter, the K&N shield isn't even close to fitting.

GOOGLE ALBUM of photos and a video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/opLeiVBDH5HY9v8D9

Quick pic, feel free to laugh at my awful sense of direction on both the photo and the maf screw offset.

[Obioban]

What material did you use? Lots of heat in the engine bay, to make 3D printed parts go soft.

Fun project!

[Gt4]

Are you sure MAF is pointing in the right difection? Looking at MAF harness, you should rotate 180 degrees

[TeddybearCup]

I used a resin printer! So it cures by UV and can go well over 100C (Def won't get that hit there)

Shit, you're right, so the maf sensor plug, the tabs, after checking are the right way, but perhaps previous owner installed the harness on the sensor backwards???

Edit:
Checking my spare maf, the plug is very directional! So unsure how this happened.
From pictures and the OEM sensor, my plug orientation as it is matches: offset tabs are towards the filter.
Very puzzled right now

Ok, took it out and checked, still perplexed, because the harness is definitely in the plug the right way (no way to put it backwards) and from pictures, it DOES look like that cut out notch has to go forwards towards the filter, right?

[TeddybearCup]

Ok, fixed it by turning the boot around

[PowerSax]

That is some nice work. Resin printer sounds like a nice tool also.

[cobra]

Nice dude, what printer are you using? I have an FDM but it's not useful for final products, just for prototype and mocking up.

[TeddybearCup]

Nice dude, what printer are you using? I have an FDM but it's not useful for final products, just for prototype and mocking up.

I'm using an Epax E10.
I still print with FDM printers >90% of the time. Resin is a pain to clean and cure. But once in a while, resin seems like a decent solution to a functional part.

[TeddybearCup]

Updated my printed MAF to have the right screw orientation and swapped to a CF bellmouth that has an elliptical inlet curvature instead of a constant radius one. Also, used some clear resin instead, and made the housing shorter.

A part of me wants to just use the old K&N 4" ID filter just for simplicity, but love the sheer ridiculousness of this thing. It's massive.

[Sprp85]

Looks like you have the stock Karb box as well

Sound clips?

[TeddybearCup]

I have sound clips in the Karbonius thread but stopped sharing because my phone mic doesn't actually do the changes justice. It made all the volumes sound the same at the end.
I'm still working through some revisions, and making sure air flow is smooth and MAF readings are accurate. Might put together some kits eventually. My goal is to switch to printing this from ASA to make them less brittle and build in a 5" velocity stack, instead of using an expensive CF adapter (6" is a bit ridiculous...). Dunno if there's any interest though.

Also, still looking for someone who can lend me an Eventuri. Just the housing and MAF piece really. I'd love to have a comparison between them and log some numbers too. Will give my old plastic bellmouth and maf housing as compensation for the troubles.

[terra]

What material did you use? Lots of heat in the engine bay, to make 3D printed parts go soft.

Fun project!

As far as stuff printable on consumer printers, I imagine ABS/ASA, polycarbonate, and nylon would do reasonably well in an automotive environment.

edit: actually probably not polycarbonate. I forgot that stuff doesn’t really like oil

[TeddybearCup]

Ok, major revision (actually, been working on about 10 different revisions over the last few weeks)

I tried the Eventuri filter, and eventually settled on the fact that the key is to have as light an intake setup as possible.
Even tried the Macht shnell elbow.

So here is the first version I'm super happy with. Fully ASA printed, just over 110g mass, with a very affordable filter.

The intake is much louder than before.

I have PC and nylon coming in, and I think I'll shoot for even thinner walls in PC next.

[TeddybearCup]

I got nylon in and printed it successfully, with a longer mouthpiece. Skip to 33 seconds for a WOT 2nd and 3rd gear pull.
It's CRAZY how good layer adhesion is with nylon. The support brim, I can't even tear apart by hand, and it's only 0.2mm thick!

Loudness is similar to before despite being heavier, but can hear the intake around 2500 RPM instead of 3300. I'll be pushing boundaries on how thin I can make these walls with my printer over the next few weeks.

[Vonbimmer]

Wow sounds great!