Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Best set of coil overs(or other options) for my M3 for my very specific needs?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Best set of coil overs(or other options) for my M3 for my very specific needs?

    TLDR: this is typical post for me. Seems TMI. Probably is. But it saves answering all the questions I would get. I think ALL the info is in this first request for advice.

    My car: Highly modded 2005 cabrio. Imola Red over cinnamon. FAST SMG shifts with software...I love it!. Heavy......only 20 lbs lighter than stock. BUT, it dances with the best on anything but a tight tight autocross. No likely.. Stock clutch which is over powered on 1-2 full throttle shifts. Plans for Stage 2 South Bend Clutch and new LUK dual mass flywheel. Dyno tune 301 rwhp
    Currently running TCK single adjustment and linear springs. Many MORE suspension mods. Keep reading.

    My needs (M3 Daily driver)
    1) More comfort, especially over broken pavement and pot holes in SE Florida.
    2) MUCH better high speed dampening and control at Autobahn speeds....130mph to 170mph .. in the South MEXICAN Express Lanes,
    3) Cost: got to be under $3.5K including hats, and camber/caster adjuster, springs etc. I self install. NO problem there. Must have caster adjustment.

    4) Application: DAILY driver 50/50 hwy/urban on decent to POOR highway(I-95) , mediocre urban streets(Commercial Blvd). Rim bending potholes in some places. 25mile round trip
    5) The EXPRESS LANES in South Florida are essentially the Autobahn when no one else is around. State Police are prohibited tp pull you over(NO ROOM!) except when you might blast off at the end of a stretch of the toll lane. Some dual lane, some single lane. But I would NEVER speed there. ONLY in Southern Mexico!


    6) No more harsh solid pillow ball caster/camber plates. I want Hybrid or rubber bushed!!

    Vehicle: 2005 E46 M3 cabrio. HEAVY....3800+lbs? 301 RWHP. $1000 dyno tune by Barry at Active Autowerk on their Mustang Dyno. H&H anti sway bars. Full stiff front, full soft rear. Brembo GT BBK, 6/4 piston and Hawk street pads. $1k ENDLESS racing pads. Castrol SRF brake fluid

    My past coil overs:
    1) 2009: Entry level KW V2 with progressive springs in 2009. They were OK. Tracked OK, not great. Comfort was OK. Could have been better. Ride height... 13.5 " front and 13" rear​.

    2) 2014 BC Coil overs. Their springs, not Swift. Pretty comfortable but their damping could not keep up after 100mph. I did NOT track with these. I would not.

    3) 2018 to Present: TC Kline SINGLE adjustable. My guy was given funds to buy the DUAL adjustable. Long story. I am stuck with the single. NOT impressed. Been trying to get the most out of these which is not much. 450lb Swift spring front (too SOFT.!!) Car bottoms out in front too easily on potholes and some bumps. 650lb TCK spring in rear which seems OK. Spent a LOT of time adjusting the rebound. The dampers get overwhelmed at speeds over 130 mph unless the pavement is PERFECT. NOT HAPPY. Damn these single adjustable.

    Ride height was 13.5 and 13. I raised the car up about .75 inch all around to gain more comfort and little handling degrade. (Under 130mph) . FULL caster, Front camber at -2.00 rear at -1.5 with my TMS rear camber arms. in front I have adjustable TMS links for my H&R anti sway bar.

    OEM stock toe in front and rear for max straight line stability at speed. I would track the car with these setting NO problem. But I will be doing ONE very expensive track weekend at Sebring. ONE. The rest daily driver. Street tires: 19" Pilot Sport 4s 255mm front and 275mm rear.
    Track AND street I run 18" D Force wheels with square set up Pilot Sport 4s 265/35-18

    I HATE my TCK's. They do not do what I want. Recap my needs:
    1) Stable at VERY high speeds
    2) probably 550 lb springs in front. I CAN try my Swift 450's. They are all 60mm diameter BTW
    3) ALL street. Street racing deep in Mexico. Daily driver. ONE annual track session at 3.75 mile Sebring for a weekend. About $3000 now all in with every expense. Add $500+ for wear and tear for my $750 EACH floating rotors.(racing pads tear them up!) fuel, Tire wear on my $300 EACH Michelin 4s Oil change after, rod bearing wear, etc
    4)Rubber bushed or hybrid caster/camber plates. I HAVE Rogue Engineering rear spring perch steel plates. I have poly hats for the rear springs.
    5) MUCH more comfort and compliance on broken pavement in the street.

    And, NO THANK YOU. I do NOT want to go the Koni shock and Eibach spring route....UNLESS someone has a better combo with an adjustable GREAT damper. I now like my car lowered but not slammed. Waaay too much horrific road debris. I need a front o back FLAT ride. somewhere in the 14.5/14 inch range

    I am thinking I may be screwed trying to achieve this with coil overs less than $3,500. I may well have to go the damper lowering spring way.
    I know at one time Obioban Kenobi had a sweet set up with Ohlin's dampers and TMS Hybrid caster/camber plates. I wish I could have bought them used from him.

    I think he was in to it for $5000 YEARS ago. I am totally out of touch with current costs and p[possibilities. I really need to help. can someone give the Great Master Obioban the link to this thread? Thanks.
    What are my single TCK dampers and TCK caster camber plates and springs WORTH? about 15k miles on them. Not driven daily until June 2022
    Last edited by BigDave; 11-26-2022, 11:37 PM.

    #2
    Just an aside. I know what great dampers can do. My old Penske was off the chart amazing. Did EVERYTHING perfect.
    Back story:
    When I win the lottery I want THREE way adjustable!!!! High AND low speed compression adjustment and rebound for my M3

    THE Best damper in my entire life was like this...a single custom (to my weight, and the bikes weight) built Penske rear mono shock for my Honda XXX Blackbird.

    I stipulated height adjustment too. I raised the rear 6mm, and spent almost a week tuning this Penske work of art.... Finally....it was time to set it and forget it.
    I thought I was going to have to tune the damper for different road conditions. Oh, how wrong I was. Set it (after almost a week of tweaking) and forget it.

    There was no road surface or speed up to 185mph that rear mono shock could not float over with unreal stability. It cost me $1,5K with their spring in 2011. Everything was custom for my Blackbird and my body weight.
    I had tuned the bike with add ons and tweaking to 155 rwhp. But geared it down to "only" a 175mph top speed. The acceleration was brutal. Tore up any first or second gen Hayabusa up to 175mph. Waaaay too fast. Had to sell it. I digress as I often do. I LOVE speed. Even at age 66. I do ALL my own wrenching BTW. It was the Penske damper I remember most. I miss the damper more than the bike. Totally transformed it.

    Idiots on the forums would spend a fortune on new FORKS for the Blackbird. The stock forks with a fluid change and new seals were FINE. The stock rear mono shock was utter ca -a crap!! The rear wallowed so much it was dangerous. I just maintained the forks and had Penske make this custom damper for me. BTW, my buddy had an off the shelf FANCY looking Ohlins that was very good. Eye candy too. But, it was no where good as my CUSTOM Penske. Same price or less than the Ohilns BTW.​
    Last edited by BigDave; 11-26-2022, 11:53 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      The first issue I see is that you're running 19s on the street. Overall 19s are inferior for performance and comfort on street or track. I personally would switch to 17" or 18" full time, this will make a huge difference in every way with the thicker sidewalls and lower rotating mass.

      Since the tire is technically a "spring", a smaller/shorter sidewall is the equivalent of a shorter spring, and a taller/bigger sidewall is a longer spring with more travel. Since your car is a very heavy E46, more sidewall/"spring" would allow the suspension to work better, be more compliant, and offer better performance.

      If you're not obsessed with wheel size/bling, 17" lightweight wheels would transform your car IMO. The wheels and tires are what touch the ground so the first "shock" or harshness from a shitty road is transferred to the tire/wheel and then the suspension deals with it.
      Last edited by EthanolTurbo; 11-27-2022, 12:42 PM.
      Instagram: @logicalconclusion

      Comment


        #4
        Refresh all the bushings and joints with oem rubber. Avoid anything poly.

        Get new OEM equiv dampers.

        Get 18 inch wheels.

        To meet your needs to don’t want coilovers IMO.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

        Comment


          #5
          I have the TCK doubles. I never had an issue with the car not being anything but stable and controllable at speeds up to 143mph. I drove 600/700lbs springs for street and track and was happy with it.

          I’d get something like Bilstein HDs and OE springs if you don’t want a coilover.

          Comment


            #6
            May I suggest having a look at Bilstein PSS10 (B16) with Turner Camber plates. They have progressive springs but vastly superior to the KW V2. I daily drive the car and track it often. Running -4.2 camber upfront with some nice Toe out. Turns on a dime. More comfortable than stock suspension, lowest dampening setting is too soft/floaty for my liking, but the option is there for unforgiving roads and takes 30 seconds to adjust. Stiffest setting on the dampers is harsh but that is meant for track and not road use.

            KW V3 is also a good option from what I have heard but do not have any experience there.
            Last edited by NE///M3SIS; 11-30-2022, 12:57 PM.
            Vac Motorsports e46 M3 ~ BEL
            YOUTUBE CHANNEL

            Comment


              #7
              ^ PSS10 are a solid alternative, especially if you hate Konis. Lifetime warranty & digressive valving. Add some GC camber plates and you'll be well under your budget.

              Something is amiss if you're having such a negative experience with TCK's.. anything Koni-based will be the most comfortable on the street. 450/650 are definitely at the upper end of what an SA can handle though. (Also FWIW TCK did not have DA coilovers available for the past couple years, which may explain how you got stuck with SA, but I digress) As others have said, you'll definitely want to run your 18's.

              KW V2/V3 are inferior to both. I have Ohlins R&T and drive mine in Broward also. Actually looking to change my setup so they will be for sale in the coming months

              Comment


                #8
                I had PSS on my 330Ci which saw mostly street miles. It was a great set of coilovers!

                KWs are sprung WAY too stiff for US roads and tracks.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Why is caster adjustment a must? I suggest pss with OE mounts

                  Comment


                    #10
                    KW V3 vs PSS10 vs Ohlins.

                    Street use only.
                    18 apex wheels.
                    Which one is best for all around? I mean comfort handling?
                    I currently have KONI yellows with eibach springs and CSL antiroll bars with Ground Control street camber plates up front. Can I reuse the camber plates with the above coilovers?​

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You really should take time to read about the fat cat motorsports flat ride. I don't have the links on hand. Then proceed to do what you think is best off of that. A flat ride set up can range from $800-skys the limit based on what you need to do. I personally am having Shaikh build me a stage 3 set up which isn't cheap but everyone whose doing suspensions right is using his math as basis for their set ups.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Start with 18” wheels, drive for a while, and re-evaluate. 19’s really are terrible. Avoid too many changes at once to ensure you know what works and what doesn’t.
                        E46 M3 Coupe - 09/04 Production, 103k miles, Black/Black, 6MT swap, AS 0% kit, BBS RG-R + AS4’s, CSL flash, Karbonius airbox, Euro header + Section 1, Koni Yellow, Xtrons, SAP Delete, lockdowns complete

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just my experience over the past decade trying mostly everything for these cars but under 3k you're going to be highly unsatisfied. Ohlins with flat ride and soft springs might be "OK" but unless you go FCM you're going to be continuously longing for something else. My FCM setup was close to 6.5k with almost 20hrs of consulting and setup all said and done it is fucking amzazong and I'm needy AF. I want max comfort and compliance with track rates that I can take to the racetrack, blow through a canyon road and focus on driving not what rut in the road is going to upset the car at 80mph) and still drive around town on r comps without fuss and jarring bs. Not one person has ridden in my car without being amazed and I tried to get people from all levels of suspension knowledge

                          Under 3k I'd do struts and springs. Everything else is honestly going to be annoying if it's a street car. Flat ride is an absolute must too if you dont want a bouncy pogostick, but you're just not going to get everything you want at that price point.
                          2003 E46 M3 TiAg/Cinnamon 6MT
                          2005 E46 330i ZHP Imola/Sand



                          | Karbonius | Schrick | Supertech | Volk | Recaro | FCM | SuperSprint | Turner | Hyperco | GC | PFC | VAC | OMP | Radium Engineering | MPRacing |

                          Instagram:@thegenius46m

                          NorCal DME Programming and Coding Expert

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post
                            Ohlins with flat ride and soft springs might be "OK" but unless you go FCM you're going to be continuously longing for something else. My FCM setup was close to 6.5k with almost 20hrs of consulting and setup all said and done it is fucking amzazong and I'm needy AF.
                            Is this pretty typical? $6.5k to realize flat ride nirvana?

                            I'm staring down the barrel of finally upgrading my suspension and will do it the right way. I just want to know what I'm in for.

                            Bit of a thread hijack so I can head over to some of the other flat ride/FCM threads with my questions, but it's definitely relevant for the OP.

                            Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well it's $3k minimum for qualty monotubes with blow off and much more for double adjustability, or 3way hi/low comp. Then add in $1000 in mounts (plates, weight jacks, rsms) $300 in springs $200 in adj endlinks/hardware.

                              I did it "cheap" right before inflation and still spent over $3k.

                              Ohlins R&T or TCK DAs are your best kits under $3k, but still require some more parts.
                              DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                              /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                              More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X