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    The OEM are stretch bolts and require that measurement for each of those 3 strokes. I have the old-school dial-attachment tool, that has the large clip. What helped was that I used a long breaker bar that gave that extra torque (pun intended) to get to those last few inches of travel, especially working on jackstands.
    17 iO1 i3
    16 F22 M235i
    08 E93 M3
    04 E46 M3 Carbon Schwarz - SMG II - Discovery Automotive tuned - AFE Stage 2 - SS Stepped - SS Metallic Cats - Eisenmann X-pipe - SS Race - 4.10 - ACS CF lip - 6000K Heads & Fogs - Tein S

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      Originally posted by bimmerfan08 View Post

      Don't quote me on this (I think it's my DIY though), but I used red Locktite when I reinstalled the oil pump nut IIRC. The oil pump nut backing off is not really an issue in the S54's from my understanding. Or at least I haven't heard of many cases of it happening.

      Here's a vid if you want to do it though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ev0jW2I8wrY
      yeah the S54 has a chain tensioner on the oil pump chain whereas the m54 does not. At high rpms the m54 suffers from vibrations that work the nut loose. The s54 fortunately does not suffer from this.

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        Sorry for bumping this old post but I just ordered the standard ACL Race bearings from MAPerformance for under $120 shipped using coupon code: KARIMRAMADAN

        Figured I would give anyone on the fence about ordering the bearings a heads up
        2006 Alpine White/Black ZCP 6-Speed

        Join the E46 M3 Owners FB Group HERE

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          How important is the joining torque of 5nm? My torque wrench starts at 6.25nm. Would this be okay to use?

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            Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
            How important is the joining torque of 5nm? My torque wrench starts at 6.25nm. Would this be okay to use?
            Yes

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              Originally posted by Slideways View Post

              Yes
              Thanks!

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                Some additional questions:

                How important is it to achieve the 105° torque angle in ONE pass? Seems difficult when doing the job on jack stands.

                I accidentally overtightened one bolt, beyond 105°. It might be around 125° at this point. Should I leave it? Loosen both bolts and retighten a 4th time? Or just replace both bolts?

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                  Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
                  Some additional questions:

                  How important is it to achieve the 105° torque angle in ONE pass? Seems difficult when doing the job on jack stands.

                  I accidentally overtightened one bolt, beyond 105°. It might be around 125° at this point. Should I leave it? Loosen both bolts and retighten a 4th time? Or just replace both bolts?
                  I would replace and do them again. Better safe than sorry

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                    Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
                    Some additional questions:

                    How important is it to achieve the 105° torque angle in ONE pass? Seems difficult when doing the job on jack stands.

                    I accidentally overtightened one bolt, beyond 105°. It might be around 125° at this point. Should I leave it? Loosen both bolts and retighten a 4th time? Or just replace both bolts?
                    Just buy a legit, electronic torque angle wrench like the gear wrench branded wrench and never worry again. You are messing with arguably the single most important bolt on the car…

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                      Originally posted by tlow98 View Post

                      Just buy a legit, electronic torque angle wrench like the gear wrench branded wrench and never worry again. You are messing with arguably the single most important bolt on the car…
                      I just bought one before the job. The issue is the clearance not the tool. I'll probably remove the front subframe and PS lines entirely to see if I can get the clearance.

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                        Originally posted by JokerElite View Post

                        I just bought one before the job. The issue is the clearance not the tool. I'll probably remove the front subframe and PS lines entirely to see if I can get the clearance.
                        Yes, that would make it more difficult. After removing the subframe, the only bolts where clearance for a 3/8ths digital torque wrench without an extension is a bit of an issue is cylinder 6. The wrench wants to contact the oil cooler lines before making it to 105. If the rod is brought slightly to one side of the block rather than bottom dead center, the bolts will reach 105 before the wrench hits the oil cooler. That is if you want to follow the part about doing it in one full swing. An extension would make it easier, but there is the issue of slipping off the torx head of the rod bolt and messing it up.

                        The dealership most likely did it with the subframe hanging with an extension and you can see it on some of the bolts where they almost stripped the torx head of the rod bolt. You can also see this same thing on some of the oil pump bolts that have slightly stripped hex heads. That is if your engine had the recall.
                        Last edited by Slideways; 03-29-2023, 10:13 AM.

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                          I did mine on jackstands with the subframe completely removed. While figuring out the best technique, I rounded one of the rod bolt heads off when the socket slipped off. Luckily, the bolt head was still good for removal so I was able to replace that bolt easily. From then on, I pressed onto the socket as hard as I could while turning the ratchet.
                          2004 Alpine White / Cinnamon E46 M3 6MT
                          1993 Brilliant Black FD Rx7
                          IG: @gearheadtwins

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                            Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
                            ...I'll probably remove the front subframe and PS lines entirely to see if I can get the clearance...
                            This will definitely help! Did mine on jack stands as well, and also my E93.

                            17 iO1 i3
                            16 F22 M235i
                            08 E93 M3
                            04 E46 M3 Carbon Schwarz - SMG II - Discovery Automotive tuned - AFE Stage 2 - SS Stepped - SS Metallic Cats - Eisenmann X-pipe - SS Race - 4.10 - ACS CF lip - 6000K Heads & Fogs - Tein S

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                              Same method here, I did mine last spring on jack stands and removing the subframe made it much easier to do all of the tasks. I left the rack and control arms on the subframe and the struts on the car (removed calipers and wired up and removed discs so the subframe assembly was easy to move around)

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                                Thanks all for the tips!

                                2004 with 152k

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