The OEM are stretch bolts and require that measurement for each of those 3 strokes. I have the old-school dial-attachment tool, that has the large clip. What helped was that I used a long breaker bar that gave that extra torque (pun intended) to get to those last few inches of travel, especially working on jackstands.
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Originally posted by bimmerfan08 View Post
Don't quote me on this (I think it's my DIY though), but I used red Locktite when I reinstalled the oil pump nut IIRC. The oil pump nut backing off is not really an issue in the S54's from my understanding. Or at least I haven't heard of many cases of it happening.
Here's a vid if you want to do it though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ev0jW2I8wrY
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Some additional questions:
How important is it to achieve the 105° torque angle in ONE pass? Seems difficult when doing the job on jack stands.
I accidentally overtightened one bolt, beyond 105°. It might be around 125° at this point. Should I leave it? Loosen both bolts and retighten a 4th time? Or just replace both bolts?
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Originally posted by JokerElite View PostSome additional questions:
How important is it to achieve the 105° torque angle in ONE pass? Seems difficult when doing the job on jack stands.
I accidentally overtightened one bolt, beyond 105°. It might be around 125° at this point. Should I leave it? Loosen both bolts and retighten a 4th time? Or just replace both bolts?
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Originally posted by JokerElite View PostSome additional questions:
How important is it to achieve the 105° torque angle in ONE pass? Seems difficult when doing the job on jack stands.
I accidentally overtightened one bolt, beyond 105°. It might be around 125° at this point. Should I leave it? Loosen both bolts and retighten a 4th time? Or just replace both bolts?
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Originally posted by tlow98 View Post
Just buy a legit, electronic torque angle wrench like the gear wrench branded wrench and never worry again. You are messing with arguably the single most important bolt on the car…
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Originally posted by JokerElite View Post
I just bought one before the job. The issue is the clearance not the tool. I'll probably remove the front subframe and PS lines entirely to see if I can get the clearance.
The dealership most likely did it with the subframe hanging with an extension and you can see it on some of the bolts where they almost stripped the torx head of the rod bolt. You can also see this same thing on some of the oil pump bolts that have slightly stripped hex heads. That is if your engine had the recall.Last edited by Slideways; 03-29-2023, 10:13 AM.
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I did mine on jackstands with the subframe completely removed. While figuring out the best technique, I rounded one of the rod bolt heads off when the socket slipped off. Luckily, the bolt head was still good for removal so I was able to replace that bolt easily. From then on, I pressed onto the socket as hard as I could while turning the ratchet.
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Originally posted by JokerElite View Post...I'll probably remove the front subframe and PS lines entirely to see if I can get the clearance...
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Same method here, I did mine last spring on jack stands and removing the subframe made it much easier to do all of the tasks. I left the rack and control arms on the subframe and the struts on the car (removed calipers and wired up and removed discs so the subframe assembly was easy to move around)
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