Rod bearings

[Slideways]

Is anyone doing ARP bolts with a stretch gauge? Seems like a tight fit, curious what gauges are recommended if going the ARP route.
Just curious if that's why everyone just goes OE (besides being OE).

With the subframe in the way, it could be tricky, but the ARP gauge should work without issue. With the engine in the car and no access to the gauge, I'd probably just torque the ARP M11s to the torque spec in the instructions and not sweat it.

[lunar50]

Just swapped for new set of oem last week. These have 95k on them. The order got mixed up a bit but most wear on the rod side. Thanks to everyone for the DIY and all the info to get this done.

[Phoenix///M3]

Do either OEM or ACL bearings come with assembly lube? If not what are you guys using? How about the new M10 bolts, is the torque spec / sequence dry or lubed?

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[jbfrancis3]

Do either OEM or ACL bearings come with assembly lube? If not what are you guys using? How about the new M10 bolts, is the torque spec / sequence dry or lubed?

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No. I like the Lucas assembly lube but its certainly not the only good option. Depends on the bolts. BMW bolts have a strict sequence in addition to need to tighten them at least 3 times, I believe. ARP bolts come with an assembly [bolt] lube for applying to threads and underside of head, and provide stretch and torque spec.

[Phoenix///M3]

Found the original service bulletin. They recommend "moistening" the bearing shells with engine oil but I would feel better with lube. No mention of bolt lube just the procedure, so I assume it's dry.

[D-O]

Found the original service bulletin. They recommend "moistening" the bearing shells with engine oil but I would feel better with lube. No mention of bolt lube just the procedure, so I assume it's dry.

I was thinking the same thing about installing the rod bolts dry. Thankfully, Slideways pointed out that the TIS indicates that they should be washed and oiled.

[Phoenix///M3]

What are you guys doing with the oil pump nut other than torqueing to spec...red or blue locktite? Drilled nut and safety wire?

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[bimmerfan08]

What are you guys doing with the oil pump nut other than torqueing to spec...red or blue locktite? Drilled nut and safety wire?

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Don't quote me on this (I think it's my DIY though), but I used red Locktite when I reinstalled the oil pump nut IIRC. The oil pump nut backing off is not really an issue in the S54's from my understanding. Or at least I haven't heard of many cases of it happening.

Here's a vid if you want to do it though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ev0jW2I8wrY

[Inizes]

I put together a spreadsheet when I was figuring out what parts to order based on the DIY instructions. I thought this might be helpful to others so I changed the formatting a little so you can mix and match parts a little easier.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PmHT0Xc_S4zTZuuadSbPDCDC9voRMJtdcWZKAklFx80/edit?usp=sharing

[Phoenix///M3]

Finally made some progress on my bearing DIY. These are recall bearings from 2004 time frame with somewhere around 75k on them.

[heinzboehmer]

Finally made some progress on my bearing DIY. These are recall bearings from 2004 time frame with somewhere around 75k on them.

Those look almost exactly the same as what came out of my car. Mine were also replaced in 2004 under the service action and had about 78k mi when I replaced them.

[Phoenix///M3]

I guess we could have both gone longer!

[Inizes]

Here’s some original on a 2005 with the change completed at 107,010 miles. There was a tiny bit of copper on the edge of 1, 4 and 5 rod side.

[Mr.wReckless]

Is anyone doing ARP bolts with a stretch gauge? Seems like a tight fit, curious what gauges are recommended if going the ARP route.
Just curious if that's why everyone just goes OE (besides being OE).

I had my subframe off, also did the job on the floor/jack stands, I'd say it depends on how low the subframe drops along with your equipment. I followed canadian youtube channel Speed Academy's procedure when they did the bearings on their M3. I too had an extra long ratcheting spanner tool to help me, only to find I had the wrong size. Ended up using a normal 11mm and took the long handle from my jack as an extension to help me get enough torque on the bolts. I even used the same stretch gauge as Speed Academy and stretched to the high end of ARP's recommendations, though this tool needs some minor metal shaved off to fit around the rod to get it to latch on the bolt and give you a reading.

Regards

[marksae]

Bumping an old thread. I am currently in the middle of my rod bearing job using OEM M10 rod bolts. Just wondering how critical the angle torque procedure is, specifically to having to do it in one stroke. I have a digital angle torque wrench, so I am able to achieve the target 105 degree angle, but it's pretty difficult to get it all in one stroke. I can get about 80-90 degrees pretty comfortably, but the last 15-25 degrees is a bit challenging giving my spatial constraints. I am doing this job with my car on jackstands.