175,000-Mile Maintenance Items/Tasks

[Stilt]

As the title states, my m3 is approaching the 175k mile mark, and with that comes to some maintenance, but I am unsure of what to do.

I purchased the car about 6 months ago and have about 1000ish miles on it. I have not serviced any fluids except for coolant, when I did a full cooling over haul in the summer.

So, I am reaching out and asking what maintenance items/tasks are on next on the chopping block?

Pfa

[Estoril]

I'd get it up on your shop's lift and have them go through it in detail. That will give you a fact-based to-do list based upon your specific car, rather than a generic list from people who have never seen it or know anything about it's maintenance history.

[Tbonem3]

How much money ya got pal?

j/k but estoril's advice is good, tho some stuff can't be know, so I'd do everything that's considered basic maintenance. At 175k, you could need a lot done, how can we know? If it ain't broke, don't fix it to hyper maintenance pyschopaths, you've got a lot of opinions on how to maintain a car on this forum.

[Casa de Mesa]

I'd follow TBone's advice to follow Estoril's advice. You don't know what you don't know so try to get in the know.

I'd also replace all fluids (except coolant since it's done) regardless of what the shop says so you have a baseline on miles. You would then at least know how fresh those are and it's relatively low impact to your bill fold.

[oceansize]

Sticky Thread

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[bigjae46]

I would add clean, inspect, and repack driveshaft CV and axle CVs. At a minimum the axle CV joints. The grease is always liquified in the boot, probably not working nearly as well. Preventive maintenance is important because new axles are expensive, even used axles aren't cheap. Probably worth also replacing the axle boots at this point.

Some will have the right inner boot replaced only because the exhaust cooks the boot, especially aftermarket exhausts.

Then to add to the slippery slope, if you do the driveshaft CV, might as well do the center bearing, guibo and front bushing in the driveshaft. Or at least closely inspect that stuff.

[heinzboehmer]

I would add clean, inspect, and repack driveshaft CV and axle CVs. At a minimum the axle CV joints. The grease is always liquified in the boot, probably not working nearly as well. Preventive maintenance is important because new axles are expensive, even used axles aren't cheap. Probably worth also replacing the axle boots at this point.

Some will have the right inner boot replaced only because the exhaust cooks the boot, especially aftermarket exhausts.

Then to add to the slippery slope, if you do the driveshaft CV, might as well do the center bearing, guibo and front bushing in the driveshaft. Or at least closely inspect that stuff.

Is repacking the axles easy to do with them on the car (reusing the boots of course)? Disconnecting from the diff isn't a big deal, but it would be nice to avoid having to press them out of the hubs.

[bigjae46]

Is repacking the axles easy to do with them on the car (reusing the boots of course)? Disconnecting from the diff isn't a big deal, but it would be nice to avoid having to press them out of the hubs.

You have to slide the outer boot off and on over the inner so I guess it would be possible. Likely one of those things that’s easier to just remove.

[heinzboehmer]

You have to slide the outer boot off and on over the inner so I guess it would be possible. Likely one of those things that’s easier to just remove.

But why should I spend a couple hours doing it the right way when I can spend much more time trying to cheat?

Jk I had a feeling that was going to be the answer. Might as well do the wheel bearings at the same time if I'm taking stuff apart already. Added to the (neverending) list of things to do.

[Casa de Mesa]

Redoing the CV grease the right way is definitely not an on-the-car job. That's is, getting rid of all the old grease, feeling both ends of the axle for grinding, removing sludge, checking the bearings and the races for pitting, replacing the boots, repacking the CV joint, etc.

It's a job I personally like doing less than bleeding a master cylinder and ABS.

[Casa de Mesa]

Here is a video I used on doing the CVs. It's for an E36 M3, but it's effectively the same thing as with the E46 M3. Or really any IRS.

https://youtu.be/Ck6iw2ygfXc

[bmwfnatic]

I assume you have no history with the car? Otherwise the invoices from the previous owners are a pretty good starting point. (And then the things that haven’t been done yet).

Remove rear subframe, inspect the 4 mounting points, remove seam sealer around them because the cracks sometimes can’t be seen but are starting already.

Reinforce with a proper kit that has large plates and reinforces from the inside; CMP, Vincebar, Redish V3, Weldtech. Don’t use the small Tuner style plates, they are a bandaid fix and don’t do shit to stop the floor panel from moving.

Check your differential for play and noises, chances are, it is due for a rebuild at this milage.

Inspect VANOS, especially the bolts and the exhaust hub tabs that drive the oil pump. Refresh VANOS if no signs of it being done, if there are signs of it being done, i.e. redrilled oil pump disk, you can leave it alone perhaps.

If no maintenance records, change your rod bearings, better safe than sorry.

Do a compression test and leak down test on the engine, my head gasket went between 175.000 and 200.000 mi, it breaks between the cylinders, car wont even be down on power a lot, so you probably wont notice it, but if driven for too long it damages the head.

Adjust the valves, no one ever does this, can lead to camshaft damage if not done.

Lastly like all the others said, just change all fluids to get a new baseline and peace of mind.

Then finally go enjoy your car

[bigjae46]

Redoing the CV grease the right way is definitely not an on-the-car job. That's is, getting rid of all the old grease, feeling both ends of the axle for grinding, removing sludge, checking the bearings and the races for pitting, replacing the boots, repacking the CV joint, etc.

It's a job I personally like doing less than bleeding a master cylinder and ABS.

The worst job ever...making stainless steel braided lines.

[bigjae46]

But why should I spend a couple hours doing it the right way when I can spend much more time trying to cheat?

Jk I had a feeling that was going to be the answer. Might as well do the wheel bearings at the same time if I'm taking stuff apart already. Added to the (neverending) list of things to do.

Hahaha...LMAO! I try not to tell anyone they CAN'T do something and be positive. But yeah...there is a 99.99999% chance that you'll regret not remove the axle.

One thing to keep in mind is that I could not get the clamps that come with the boot kit from FCP Euro to fit. I actually had the correct plier. I ended up buying some oetiker clamps from McMaster-Carr.

[duracellttu]

Before making any significant investments into the car maintenance, consider how long you will be keeping the car. If you are planning long term ownership, go the extra mile. If short term, do some basic preventive maintenance and enjoy it.

At a minimum, start with the the primary drivetrain fluids. 1) engine oil; Liquimoly w/ Ceratec, 2) Transmission fluid; OEM, 3) Differential fluid; OEM

Next, inspect the brakes for safety reasons. How much life left on the pads and rotors? Wait to flush the brake fluid until you do a brake job. It’s likely not necessary right now.

Valve adjustment every 30k miles. While you are there inspect the exhaust hub (see below).

Cooling system refresh is recommended every 100k miles to include radiator, water pump, and coolant. Sounds like that was recently addressed.

Are there other glaring issues while driving, like weird noises with the suspension? Inspect those areas and address as necessary.

Long term ownership items include the “Big 3”, which are all much more expensive than what was listed above. Each job can range from $2-4k.
1) VANOS exhaust hub tab, 2) rod bearings; send an oil sample to Blackstone to determine wear based on traces of lead and copper, 100k mile interval, 3) rear subframe reinforcement; inspect for cracks weld or epoxy in plates.

If you are mechanically inclined there are lots of great resources for DIY on the forums and YouTube. I’d consider learning if you aren’t to save a few bucks.