Vanos Bulletproof at 64k?

[ATB88]

OK, I think I've been convinced I will rebuild mine instead, plus I will forever know that I didn't get the "full vanos experience"

I just liked the idea of NOT re-timing plus from what I have read (not much) the Beisan anti-rattle can be a pain.

I have never worked on engine internals and have a lot of reading to do, timing my M3's engine just scares the s**t out of me right know with my current knowledge level.

I was exactly in your position and felt like you do 2 years ago, went through the same attempts at compromises (maybe I won't touch the timing, maybe I'll get a rebuilt unit, etc), and eventually just said f*** it and jumped in. Now I can't believe I was so afraid of doing it when I first got the car. Just read up, take your time, ask questions, and you'll do great! You've got the experience of the whole forum behind you ;]

[heinzboehmer]

I just liked the idea of NOT re-timing plus from what I have read (not much) the Beisan anti-rattle can be a pain.

As long as you've got a vice and take your time, the anti-rattle is very straight forward. Read through the procedure on Beisan's site a couple times to get familiar with it. There really isn't much to it, you'll basically be disassembling the splined shafts and reassembling with new components.

[Slideways]

Cubieman have you done a valve adjustment before? I'd build up to this type of DIY with a valve adjustment at the minimum.

[Cubieman]

Cubieman have you done a valve adjustment before? I'd build up to this type of DIY with a valve adjustment at the minimum.

No, never have, valves were adjusted about a year ago @ 60,000 so its probably good to go.

I am hoping I can learn enough to get this right the first time, but again I have never touched engine internals, and breaking that "barrier" is what scares me.
I don't really have any help locally (except for dealer and one indy shop) but I'd like to do this myself.
I suppose an E46 M3 isn't probably the best car to pop my cherry on, but I'm kind of determined to do this.

If anyone has any DIYs/Videos that aren't contained in the stickied Vanos thread you think would help I'd be grateful.

I could just buy the parts and have the shop do it, that honestly would probably be the smart thing to do to but I'd never learn that way. Just don't want to l learn how to trash my engine though.

[heinzboehmer]

I suppose an E46 M3 isn't probably the best car to pop my cherry on, but I'm kind of determined to do this.

You'll be fine. I hadn't worked on engine internals before getting my M3. Just take your time and do as much research beforehand as necessary to make yourself feel comfortable with the process.

Just don't want to l learn how to trash my engine though.

If you're careful and don't drop anything into the engine, the only thing you could mess up (catastrophically) is the timing. As has been stated before, if you follow Beisan's guides exactly as they are written, you should not have an issue. I do recommend turning the engine over a few times by hand after installing the VANOS but before replacing the valve cover. This way you can make sure the timing is correct and there is no interference between parts.

[ethan]

Pay particularly close attention to the line in the Beisan guide which instructs not to use aftermarket timing tools. I got a Schwaben one which was completely wrong and I ended up bending exhaust valves.

The OE tool is designed to be used with a single pin only. Any place telling you to use two pins to lock the cams is totally misunderstanding the procedure: use only Raj's guide.

Last thing I would say is make sure you can spin the engine a number of times and repeatedly return to perfect time as checked by the bridge. There can be chain slack if you don't get the tightening sequence for the bolts quite right, so better safe than sorry.

[Cubieman]

Pay particularly close attention to the line in the Beisan guide which instructs not to use aftermarket timing tools. I got a Schwaben one which was completely wrong and I ended up bending exhaust valves.

The OE tool is designed to be used with a single pin only. Any place telling you to use two pins to lock the cams is totally misunderstanding the procedure: use only Raj's guide.

Last thing I would say is make sure you can spin the engine a number of times and repeatedly return to perfect time as checked by the bridge. There can be chain slack if you don't get the tightening sequence for the bolts quite right, so better safe than sorry.

I am NOT trying to rub anything in, this is just something I really need to know..
Did you spin the engine to make sure there was no binding/interference before reassembly when you bent your valves?
I asked that because it would be nice to know to a certainty that you do not have any interference by hand turning of the engine before reassembly.

I did read the part about using an OE bridge and NOT using a previously used one as it may have damage. That's amazing to me that the aftermarket tool was off enough to cause your valves to bend, just another reminder to me of how critical it is to do it by the book.

[ethan]

Spinning the engine isn't enough to know that you won't make contact with valves because VANOS doesn't adjust the cams until you build oil pressure. It's a sanity check, but you still have to get the timing procedure right.

Edit: When I bent my valves, my engine spun freely by hand. And actually, I was able to spin the motor with the starter without contact. It wasn't until the engine fired up and built oil pressure that they hit.

https://ethan-public-photos.s3.amazonaws.com/build_thread/engine/failure/1.mp4

[ATB88]

OH one thing I forgot re tools: if you're doing timing, the Beisan procedure simply states that you need a 24mm open wrench in order to retard the cams at a certain step in the timing process. Thing is, I bought 4 different 24mm open wrenches and all four of them were too wide to fit onto the section of the cam that you're supposed to wrench. You actually need to somehow find a 24mm wrench with an unusually thin head. Some people suggest using an adjustable wrench that's narrow enough but I don't like doing that because it's easy for it slip off, and I find that you want to have a normal length open wrench that grips the cam properly so that you can apply enough torque to retard the cam but not so much that you over retard it (which is possible). I suggest getting a cheap angle grinder from HF and grinding your normal 24mm open wrench down until it's thin enough to fit on the cam. That was actually the most frustrating thing for me the first time I did this -- made four different trips to different stores and all the wrenches were too wide and nobody who has done this job before seems to acknowledge this ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Cubieman]

Spinning the engine isn't enough to know that you won't make contact with valves because VANOS doesn't adjust the cams until you build oil pressure. It's a sanity check, but you still have to get the timing procedure right.

Edit: When I bent my valves, my engine spun freely by hand. And actually, I was able to spin the motor with the starter without contact. It wasn't until the engine fired up and built oil pressure that they hit.

https://ethan-public-photos.s3.amazonaws.com/build_thread/engine/failure/1.mp4

Wow, that's crazy how different those bridges are, that is very useful to know.

[Cubieman]

OH one thing I forgot re tools: if you're doing timing, the Beisan procedure simply states that you need a 24mm open wrench in order to retard the cams at a certain step in the timing process. Thing is, I bought 4 different 24mm open wrenches and all four of them were too wide to fit onto the section of the cam that you're supposed to wrench. You actually need to somehow find a 24mm wrench with an unusually thin head. Some people suggest using an adjustable wrench that's narrow enough but I don't like doing that because it's easy for it slip off, and I find that you want to have a normal length open wrench that grips the cam properly so that you can apply enough torque to retard the cam but not so much that you over retard it (which is possible). I suggest getting a cheap angle grinder from HF and grinding your normal 24mm open wrench down until it's thin enough to fit on the cam. That was actually the most frustrating thing for me the first time I did this -- made four different trips to different stores and all the wrenches were too wide and nobody who has done this job before seems to acknowledge this ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I've got one coming that looks like it should be alright, but if not I'll grind down one of my Chinese pot metal wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MVKZZ85?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

[Icecream]

OH one thing I forgot re tools: if you're doing timing, the Beisan procedure simply states that you need a 24mm open wrench in order to retard the cams at a certain step in the timing process. Thing is, I bought 4 different 24mm open wrenches and all four of them were too wide to fit onto the section of the cam that you're supposed to wrench. You actually need to somehow find a 24mm wrench with an unusually thin head. Some people suggest using an adjustable wrench that's narrow enough but I don't like doing that because it's easy for it slip off, and I find that you want to have a normal length open wrench that grips the cam properly so that you can apply enough torque to retard the cam but not so much that you over retard it (which is possible). I suggest getting a cheap angle grinder from HF and grinding your normal 24mm open wrench down until it's thin enough to fit on the cam. That was actually the most frustrating thing for me the first time I did this -- made four different trips to different stores and all the wrenches were too wide and nobody who has done this job before seems to acknowledge this ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

This would probably work:
https://www.parktool.com/product/24m...-wrench-scw-24

OP, read the procedure form Besian only. No other sources. Read it until you memorize it and completely understand how the vanos works. Then start, with caution. Nothing should be different, look different or deviate from the procedure, if it does you are looking at the wrong part or you did something you shouldn't have done. Good Luck!

[oceansize]

This would probably work:
https://www.parktool.com/product/24m...-wrench-scw-24

Good little wrench. I have the 18mm version of this for front end links

[Arith2]

Pay particularly close attention to the line in the Beisan guide which instructs not to use aftermarket timing tools. I got a Schwaben one which was completely wrong and I ended up bending exhaust valves.

The OE tool is designed to be used with a single pin only. Any place telling you to use two pins to lock the cams is totally misunderstanding the procedure: use only Raj's guide.

Last thing I would say is make sure you can spin the engine a number of times and repeatedly return to perfect time as checked by the bridge. There can be chain slack if you don't get the tightening sequence for the bolts quite right, so better safe than sorry.

Aftermarket is not reliable. I'm totally with you on this one. I'd spend $150 for the bridge again.

I learned how to really work on cars on an M54 and an S54 so don't be too worried. We all start somewhere and believe me, I was nervous even the second time I did it. I'm sure you have what it takes. We got your back if you get stuck on anything. Stick to that Beisan DIY and you'll be perfectly fine.

oh and for the wrench, I've actually always used a Kobalt 1" wrench. It's a little big but it's thin enough. Probably could try their 24mm from Lowes.

[Cubieman]

Is the rattle repair procedure worth the extra effort and cost? It seems to me this could greatly increase the risk of making mistakes.