Vanos Bulletproof at 64k?

[ethan]

Is the rattle repair procedure worth the extra effort and cost? It seems to me this could greatly increase the risk of making mistakes.

I think you'll find it's one of the easier parts of the procedure. Go big or go home.

[mrgizmo04]

Yeah I've seen failed hub tabs at 24k miles, so very low. No such thing as doing it too early.

I will second the posts above to NOT mix procedures. I would say, though, that while you are learning and trying to understand how VANOS works, it's ok to look at other sources like youtube videos, SYT shadow's write up, etc to glean some insights and piece some pieces of the puzzle together. However, when actually performing the job, only use Beisan. It (based on TIS) correctly walks you through the steps and has consistent positive outcomes. Other procedures and videos take some shortcuts or suggest to use 2 cam pins or to make the splines protrude the same amount of millimeters as before disassembly, etc, which are incorrect. Plenty of folks on the forums who have done the procedure multiple times and can help you out via posts/pm/zoom/hangouts/facetime/etc.

My best suggestion is to read the Beisan guide fully at least twice, it will start clicking, and even if it does, or even if it doesn't, follow it to the T and don't try to take shortcuts. Don't try to do a valve adjustment while timing is disassociated (this one is my favorite 😜), but Raj added a note about this.

Side note if anyone is interested, I am not suggesting it, but. I have used the Schwaben bridge and the problem is how the intake leg is machined and how it sits on top of the head. To make it properly sit on the head I had to remove the rocker retainers by cyl 2 and 3, because it is not machined thin or tall enough to sit properly and not interfere with retainers in place. Without retainers it got the job done and resulted in passing the VANOS test and adapting withing 1 degree.

On special tools - Beisan guide lists everything you need - there is a section on tools and parts. As already mentioned, you need a 24mm that will fit, but also, not every wrench kit comes with 7mm that you need to disconnect the VANOS pistons from the splines. Look through the guide, it might give you ideas on what else you might need to get, depending on what you already have in your toolbox. Depending on year of your car, your crank pulley might need a 36mm to rotate the engine, you might not have that laying around. Different torx and hex bits are required, etc.

[ethan]

Side note if anyone is interested, I am not suggesting it, but. I have used the Schwaben bridge and the problem is how the intake leg is machined and how it sits on top of the head. To make it properly sit on the head I had to remove the rocker retainers by cyl 2 and 3, because it is not machined thin or tall enough to sit properly and not interfere with retainers in place. Without retainers it got the job done and resulted in passing the VANOS test and adapting withing 1 degree.

My Schwaben tool timed both cams incorrectly with or without the retainers in place.

https://ethan-public-photos.s3.amazonaws.com/build_thread/engine/ecs_timing_tool_email.txt

YMMV, but don't risk it.

[ATB88]

My Schwaben tool timed both cams incorrectly with or without the retainers in place.

https://ethan-public-photos.s3.amazo...tool_email.txt

YMMV, but don't risk it.

lmao wow f*** those guys, good on you for trying

[crbws6]

My VANOS unit was replaced at 41k. Given that this was in 2010 and at BMW dealer, would they have typically had to replace the ancillary items mentioned above (hubs, seals, bolts, etc)?

[ATB88]

My VANOS unit was replaced at 41k. Given that this was in 2010 and at BMW dealer, would they have typically had to replace the ancillary items mentioned above (hubs, seals, bolts, etc)?

I would imagine that they put in a new unit that has new BMW seals (which wear out faster than the upgraded Beisan seals) and a new solenoid pack (which will still have the same failure mode as the old one), but other than that I wouldn't imagine that they did anything else, unless BMW had an upgraded part for the cam bolts? So, if you want your engine/VANOS to be reliable, you would still need to go back in and do a Beisan oil pump disc at the very minimum to prevent the exhaust hub from breaking, and probably cam bolts too. But then you might as well go and upgrade the seals and everything else because the BMW ones will eventually fail. Basically, BMW replacing the VANOS only resets the clock on the seals and solenoid pack, and all the other problems still need to be addressed. What mileage are you at now?

[r4dr]

On a somewhat related note, someone mentioned not to do valve adjustments while timing is dissociated, which makes perfect sense. Is there a difference on doing it before or after? I'm pairing a VANOS bulletproofing with my 60k Inspection II in a couple thousand miles here.

My Schwaben tool timed both cams incorrectly with or without the retainers in place.

https://ethan-public-photos.s3.amazonaws.com/build_thread/engine/ecs_timing_tool_email.txt

YMMV, but don't risk it.

ECS is like the Walmart of car parts -- they carry a lot, the prices are so tempting, but fuck that company first and foremost. RIP Turner and Pelican.

[ATB88]

On a somewhat related note, someone mentioned not to do valve adjustments while timing is dissociated, which makes perfect sense. Is there a difference on doing it before or after? I'm pairing a VANOS bulletproofing with my 60k Inspection II in a couple thousand miles here.

I would think that there couldn't be. All you need is to be able to rotate the engine while it's in time and everything is connected and moving together to prevent any valves hitting pistons while you rotate the cams (and for the cams to be able to rotate at all as you turn the crank). The valve clearances and how they're measured have nothing to do with any part of the VANOS.

[r4dr]

I would think that there couldn't be. All you need is to be able to rotate the engine while it's in time and everything is connected and moving together to prevent any valves hitting pistons while you rotate the cams (and for the cams to be able to rotate at all as you turn the crank). The valve clearances and how they're measured have nothing to do with any part of the VANOS.

Perfect, that was my suspicion. Thanks!

[Cubieman]

I'm thinking of taking word files to a copy store and having them print out each of the 3 Beisan procedures so I can have a binder for each and take notes and keep track of where I am in the process.
I always hate using the phone/laptop with oily hands/gloves. My memory isn't the greatest so I would benefit from any thing that would help in that regard.

Anyone have any others tips/tricks just to stay organized?

Also while I'm posting I've got another question, once the parts are disassembled and cleaned I assume you are using some kind of lube or engine oil upon reassembly correct?

[heinzboehmer]

Anyone have any others tips/tricks just to stay organized?

Put your phone in a plastic bag so you can use it with oily hands. Handy for checking that one torque value you can't remember.

Also, for the actual VANOS procedure, I tied two pieces of string to the box ends of each of the 7mm and 10mm combo wrenches used to disconnect the splined shafts. I then tied both pieces of string to a hair tie that I wore on my wrist like a bracelet. Might be overkill, but the wrenches get super slippery when your hands are oily and I definitely won't be dropping them into the engine this way.

[Cubieman]

Hell yes, I love the overkill, I will be doing that!

EDIT:
Is it necessary to use slim profile 7/10mm wrenches for the vanos removal or is the slim profile only for the cams?

[ATB88]

Hell yes, I love the overkill, I will be doing that!

EDIT:
Is it necessary to use slim profile 7/10mm wrenches for the vanos removal or is the slim profile only for the cams?

I had no problems with anything except the cams using standard wrenches. Any 7mm wrench is gonna be pretty tiny anyway

[heinzboehmer]

EDIT:
Is it necessary to use slim profile 7/10mm wrenches for the vanos removal or is the slim profile only for the cams?

Just cams.

[mrgizmo04]

My Schwaben tool timed both cams incorrectly with or without the retainers in place.

https://ethan-public-photos.s3.amazonaws.com/build_thread/engine/ecs_timing_tool_email.txt

YMMV, but don't risk it.

Sorry to see that, sounds like they go through waves of good and bad batches.

Was there anything visual on the tool that looked off? I'm just trying to think how the top vs bottom holes on the tool have to line up yo send the pin through to cause bent valves.