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E46 Crank But No Start - Tried Handful of Things W/ No Luck

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    E46 Crank But No Start - Tried Handful of Things W/ No Luck

    FIXED

    Installed a OEM fuel pump assembly and the car started right up. At the same time discovered that the MAF was failing and causing the car to stall installed when plugged in. Installed another one and it drives as good as it has ever driven. In total, the fuel pump, maf sensor, and fuel pump relay were the main culprits.



    I was driving home the other day and after I took a turn and leaned into the gas the car stuttered for a second and came back to normal. Took another left turn and the car sputtered and died.

    Car had just under half tank when it died and I quickly pulled the seats to see if I could hear the pump prime - and nothing. So I towed the car back to the shop and got to work.

    I have replaced the fuel pump with the Walboro unit and Radium engineering sleeve along with a new fuel filter and after the install, the pump still wouldn't prime. I swapped out the fuel pump relay in the trunk from a donor car and the pump finally starts priming. I go to crank the car and I still have nothing.

    I have checked all the relays - the ones in the hood to the ones in the glove compartment. Switched them around and actuated them a battery and they click and operate. I have checked all the fuses related to the fuel pump as well as the immobilizer.

    At this point I am not sure what else to check. I ran it on INPA and it didn't have any error codes, and prior to the car cutting out, I didn't have any engine codes either. I verified that the fuel pump is operational in INPA. When I put the key in position 2 and press the pedal, I can hear the throttle actuate. I went to check the purge valve on the regulator and instead of a spray, it kind of dribbled out. I'm not sure because I checked a while after it was primed, or perhaps there is something causing it not to pressurize.

    Any insight would be appreciated. I am thinking of looking at the fuel pressure regulator, TPS sensors, the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensors next. Without any codes I feel like I am chasing a ghost. Anyone experience this before?
    Last edited by Heirforce1; 05-06-2023, 06:44 PM.

    #2
    Could possibly be the EWS, the relay inside them can go bad. You can jump the 2 larger wires comming out of it to bypass it temporarily.
    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
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      #3
      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
      Could possibly be the EWS, the relay inside them can go bad. You can jump the 2 larger wires comming out of it to bypass it temporarily.
      It's possible, but it's strange the car lets me crank, just no start.

      Comment


        #4
        Sounds fuel related to me. I'd check fuel pressure next.

        Did you replace that tube that goes from the fuel pump to the carrier? Original ones tend to not seal well on aftermarket pumps, but that usually doesn't manifest itself as a no start issue. Might still be worth doing a quick visual inspection
        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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          #5
          could be a bad check valve (or no check valve depending on pump model) in the walboro pump preventing the fuel system to pressure
          ‘02 LSB M3 (11k original miles)
          ’03 Oxford Green M3 (Turbo’d)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
            Sounds fuel related to me. I'd check fuel pressure next.

            Did you replace that tube that goes from the fuel pump to the carrier? Original ones tend to not seal well on aftermarket pumps, but that usually doesn't manifest itself as a no start issue. Might still be worth doing a quick visual inspection
            Tube was replaced when I installed the Radium fuel kit. When I tried the bleeder valve on the FPR it didn't release pressure but that was some time after priming. Will try FPR next.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Hallerhan View Post
              could be a bad check valve (or no check valve depending on pump model) in the walboro pump preventing the fuel system to pressure
              Will check this tomorrow as well. When I put the key in crank position with no clutch, the fuel pump does prime continuously as if it was running though.

              When I checked the fuel vent valve underneath the intake manifold, I noticed the vacuum line on the bottom was very loose and may have come off at some point. Could that also be a culprit?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Heirforce1 View Post

                Tube was replaced when I installed the Radium fuel kit. When I tried the bleeder valve on the FPR it didn't release pressure but that was some time after priming. Will try FPR next.
                You can use that valve to measure pressure. Some data with the pump priming and while cranking should give you a good idea of what's going on with the fuel system.
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Heirforce1 View Post

                  1. Will check this tomorrow as well. When I put the key in crank position with no clutch, the fuel pump does prime continuously as if it was running though.

                  2. When I checked the fuel vent valve underneath the intake manifold, I noticed the vacuum line on the bottom was very loose and may have come off at some point. Could that also be a culprit?
                  1. Pump should not run continuously with key turned on but engine off. It should turn off after a few seconds by the Law. But yes, check fuel pressure for 70 psi.
                  2. This hose affects the fuel pressure.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Check the "sucking jet pump". Transfers fuel from the passenger to driver side. The tube tends to pop off. Also, fill it up with fuel.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Heirforce1 View Post

                      It's possible, but it's strange the car lets me crank, just no start.
                      There are 2 "servers" and "clients" in this case,
                      KEY - EWS control modules and
                      EWS control module - DME
                      If key is valid it will start but if rolling code/ISN for some reason is incorrect between DME and EWS it won't fire up.
                      In newer cars there is also DME - EGS (transmission) security.

                      In Tool32 -> MSS54DS0.prg -> status_digital -> [STAT_EWS3_FREIGABE] you can see if EWS is OK or not.


                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by sapote View Post

                        1. Pump should not run continuously with key turned on but engine off. It should turn off after a few seconds by the Law. But yes, check fuel pressure for 70 psi.
                        2. This hose affects the fuel pressure.
                        Going to pick up a new breather valve today and see if it connects better to the hose. Also going to put in the new fpr so will see what happens.
                        ​​​​

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Syfon View Post
                          Check the "sucking jet pump". Transfers fuel from the passenger to driver side. The tube tends to pop off. Also, fill it up with fuel.
                          Is this inside the driver side tank? I popped the lid off but didn't take it off cause the hose is held on by a semi permanent clamp. Worth taking a look a replacing with a hose clamp?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Read the two fuel levels in the dash hidden menus. Or just fill it with fuel?

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Shonky View Post
                              Read the two fuel levels in the dash hidden menus. Or just fill it with fuel?
                              When I read it with the on board diagnostic all the fuel is on the right side and had 18L. I put in another 18L and it shows a total of 36 but almost all of it is in the right side. I could top up another 10 to see if it fills the left side?

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