Mine is actually not manual swapped but still having an issue.
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I am considering getting a smoke tester for this problem. I noticed one of the clamps on my intake elbow was loose, and tightening it reduced the problem for me. It's gotta be a small vacuum leak somewhere.Comment
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Probably a vacuum leak, but I didn't see anyone mention the MAF. It wouldn't hurt to clean and inspect it.Comment
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Inspect these hoses for dry rot. A couple on my silver car were dry rotting, so I replaced them. Ridiculously expensive for what you get, but it is what it is.
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I checked all the ICV plumbing and part 7 was a little dry rotted on the outside, but the price is steep for that one hoseOriginally posted by SQ13 View PostInspect these hoses for dry rot. A couple on my silver car were dry rotting, so I replaced them. Ridiculously expensive for what you get, but it is what it is.
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This exact thing happened to me the other day when I was heading to a local BMW dealership to trade rims with one of the techs. It was very hot that day in the 90's so I had AC on.
Info about the car: smg to manual conversion. was done about 7-8k miles ago.
It would stop stalling when the AC was turned off, drove completely fine. The car does have a VANOS rebuild, but the previous owner did not change to the upgraded Beisan solenoid so that will be done soon. Hoping this will solve the issue. Could some of you guys drive around and see if it still happens with the AC completely off?Comment
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Mine stalls even with the ac off. But again mine isn't an smg swapped so maybe different issueOriginally posted by ugaexploder View PostComment
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I'll give no AC a try, but my stall issue seems to be in low to moderate temps. In hot weather it seems to turn into a surging idle that bounces around 1k +/- 300 RPM.Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
It's 107F here so my main issue now is the damn SMG pump overheating. That's the next big project after I fix my E53's HVAC.Comment
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yours is factory 6 speed? happens with AC off..how is your battery/alternator condition?Originally posted by Leafsrule531 View PostComment
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Yeah, I think we may have different issues here :/Originally posted by nahvkolaj View Post
What I've been experiencing is typically when coming to a stop.
*clutch in, stalls while clutch is in coming to a stop* -> also happens when at a complete stop regardless of clutch in or out.
Initially thought it was battery/alternator issues since it's not driven daily and the little red battery icon popped up. In addition, I know the AC can put quite an additional load on the system, but I turned the AC off and issue completely ceased. Take this with a grain of salt as my sample size or miles driven is very little and just going off causation.
Was driving around in traffic too, so a lot of stop and go type driving and no issues at all after that...I have it on a trickle charger now (still don't think it has anything to do with battery/alternator) to be on the safe side which took quite a while to fully charge but that's because my trickle charger is a pos.
For my situation I honestly think the VANOS solenoid valves are all gummed up and possibly the filter is probably clogged as well. Just waiting on some strong rubber magnets and new crush washers to replace the VANOS solenoid.Last edited by ugaexploder; 07-04-2023, 10:05 AM.Comment
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Originally posted by 01SG View Post
You can just unplug the MAF and if it still stalls then its not the problem. Of course cleaning it wont hurt but its just a quick way to test.
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Sounds like a fuel pump and sender issue. I’m experiencing the same, stalling at low rpm and at WOT. Also my fuel gauge is not reading empty/full at times. I will report my findings once I update to oem my full fuel system, from injectors, fuel filter, to both pumps.Comment
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I would agree with the others about the MAF. I just experienced the same exact symptoms as you on my DD. I cleaned the MAF but that didn't do anything for me however swapping to a brand new one fixed it immediately. I would start here before throwing money and labor at more complex possibilities.
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Started my car in the garage and went to clear the SMG code before taking it to the smog shop. AC was on and it nearly stalled, when I remembered the no AC experiment, so I decided to suck up the heat and get a data point.
Drove it around town mostly skipping even gears, primarily to keep the SMG pump happy, but also because the 3rd -> 1st shift coming to a stop is what seems to maximize the potential to make the car stall at stops signs and red lights.
Not a single RPM dip the whole time and no surging idle at startup.Comment
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