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    #16
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    Any tips on figuring the math a bit easier for the shims? Has anyone come up with an xcel table or similar to make things a little easier in that respect or to help with keeping a nice record of what was there and what was replaced other than pencil to paper. Math has never been my strong suit so I could use some help. And yes I know about calculators
    Someone made this on the old forum:

    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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      #17
      Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
      Any tips on figuring the math a bit easier for the shims? Has anyone come up with an xcel table or similar to make things a little easier in that respect or to help with keeping a nice record of what was there and what was replaced other than pencil to paper. Math has never been my strong suit so I could use some help. And yes I know about calculators
      I have a copy of one from M3Forum, but it doesn't look like the forum allows excel documents to be attached.

      Nevermind, read post above, haha.
      2005 ZCP SMG ///M3

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        #18
        Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

        Someone made this on the old forum:

        https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t?usp=drivesdk
        Awesome, thank you.
        2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
        Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
        Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

        OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
        RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

        2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
        Instagram

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          #19
          I bought some 15 dollar micrometer off amazon and it worked fine. you just need relative, repeatable values to compare shims. the actual accurate measurement doesn't really matter.

          Scratch that, it was only 11 dollars. Lol

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            #20
            Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
            Any tips on figuring the math a bit easier for the shims? Has anyone come up with an xcel table or similar to make things a little easier in that respect or to help with keeping a nice record of what was there and what was replaced other than pencil to paper. Math has never been my strong suit so I could use some help. And yes I know about calculators
            I have a spreadsheet I made a while back. PM me your email address and I can send it to you. Forum wont let me upload the xlsx file type.
            2005 BMW M3 ZCP Black/Black - HTE Tuning | Kassel CSL DME | 288/280 Schrick Cams+DLC Followers | Lang Head | Dinan TBs | Bosch 550cc | Radium Fuel System | Karbonious CSL Airbox+OE Snorkel | SS V1 Stepped+Catted Sec 1+Resonated Twin Pipe+Race | 3.91, 3 stage clutch | FCM 400/600 | Vorshlag Camber Plates, RSM | Rogue ASP | AKG FCABs, SFBs | TMS Front Sway, Camber Arms, Monoball RTABs, Pullies | Mason Race Strut + X-Brace | AS 30% SSK | SPAL | Redish Plates | Turbo Toys V2 Hub | WPC Rod Bearings

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              #21
              Hope I'm not out of line here, but I have a shim kit posted in the For Sale site.

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                #22
                Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post
                Hope I'm not out of line here, but I have a shim kit posted in the For Sale site.
                You're good, thanks for the heads up man.
                2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                Instagram

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                  #23
                  I'm getting ready to do a valve adjustment, and stumbled over ECS' DIY. They mentioned that for early model year cars a crankshaft socket is required.

                  Is this necessary on an 03.5 (built 4/03)? Any other specialty tools that are MUST haves? I have feeler gauges, and got the magnetic removal tool. Just want to make sure I don't regret missing anything with how slow COVID shipping can be.
                  2003.5 ///M3 - Laguna Seca Blue - Black - SMG Delete

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by sina View Post
                    I'm getting ready to do a valve adjustment, and stumbled over ECS' DIY. They mentioned that for early model year cars a crankshaft socket is required.

                    Is this necessary on an 03.5 (built 4/03)? Any other specialty tools that are MUST haves? I have feeler gauges, and got the magnetic removal tool. Just want to make sure I don't regret missing anything with how slow COVID shipping can be.
                    Best to take a look and see if you need the specialty tool or a 32mm socket. I used a short 32mm 1/2” drive socket and it worked great. You will need a 32mm open end wrench to remove the fan. I bought a craftsman one for $15 on amazon.

                    It can be intimidating doing the valve adjustment if you read about it but it’s actually very simple once you get going.

                    one thing about the ecs feeler gauges is that you have to stack feelers for certain sizes. I would prefer to not stack feelers but it’s just a personal preference. Ie. No .007” feeler so you need to use .005 and .002. It works fine but if I did this for a living I would use a better set with .001 increments.

                    im also not sure if the bmw shim tool is steel but the schwaben tool is plastic.

                    Mine is complete but haven’t buttoned up the valve cover because I’m debating on doing full besian vanos. I’m probably going to do it but I’m just over thinking everything as usual.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by sina View Post
                      Is this necessary on an 03.5 (built 4/03)? Any other specialty tools that are MUST haves?
                      You should be fine without the crankshaft tool. You will need a 32mm (I think) socket to turn the crank though.

                      I like having a micrometer as well, as you can measure the old and new shims before putting them in, instead of guessing what will work and then checking with the feeler gauge.
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                        #26
                        Thanks guys
                        2003.5 ///M3 - Laguna Seca Blue - Black - SMG Delete

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                          #27
                          The best feeler gauges I ever bought were these tapered ones. Sold either through desmotimes.com or EMSduc.com. I'm sure someone could find the manufacturer and other distributors but in the mean time, here they are: https://emsduc.com/product/product-51-feeler-gauges/
                          '05 M3 Convertible 6MT, CB/Cinnamon, CSL Airbox&Flap, PCSTuning, Beisan, Schrick 288/280, SS V1's & 2.5" System, RE Stg 1&SMF, KW V2, CB PS, Apex EC-7R

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by OneSwellFoop View Post
                            Do you have to have a micrometer to do the valve adjustment?
                            I would, as I measured all the old shims I pulled out and reused some to get more precise clearance, as they wear a bit which gives you more flexibility. I was able to get all of mine very close to mid clearance, by measuring every shim as well as reusing some of the old shims. But I've always been overly precise on valve adjustments, due to all the air cooled work I used to do.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
                              Is it OK to re-use the VCG if its only been on for a few months? Going to do a valve adj. then likely follow up with a Vanos rebuild later on.
                              I had my valve cover off and on probably a dozen times in the 45k miles before I replaced the VCG (authentic BMW) and never had one leak. As long as you're careful around it, and best if you don't have to remove it from the VANOS area (where you applied gasket sealant), you'll be just fine.

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                                #30
                                FYI the TIS states that you should apply Drei Bond 1209 around the rear of the cylinder head on the "half moons", and in the front where the timing cover meets the head before installing the VCG. I didn't the first time I did this, and smelled some faint burning oil. Redid it with a new gasket and the proper Drei Bond sealant and the smell is gone. Less is more- a small dab in the front and thin line in the rear is enough.
                                '06 BMW M3 6MT Coupe - TiAg/Imola
                                '99 BMW M3 5MT Coupe - Estoril/Dove
                                '00 Honda Civic Si - Electron Blue Pearl/Black
                                '11 Toyota Tacoma T/X TRD - Magnetic Grey/Grey

                                Instagram: @6spd_M3 | @midwesteuroparts



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