THE M3 IS GETTING THE ANRI BUILD TREATMENT - Blown headgasket to build thread

[ac427]

Personally, I'd reverse the question and ask why your engine builder recommends an oil viscosity not specified by the BMW engineers.

I covered the reason in post 205 and the guy that built my engine is not on here but Anri is. So i was keen to get another expert's view.

[ChapterM3]

Definitely. All the best with it.

I've been running Motul 300v 10w40 Ester based oil. This was recommended by the guy that built my engine. He is the same guy that builds the engines for Evolve.

So i was just wondering what Anri thought about different grades of engine oil in general.

Thank you! I'm not an oil expert by any means but have been following BMW the years I've owned my car with 10w60 - I can't say much more than that

Fun to follow as a casual driver/racer. Thanks for sharing.

I need to do waterpump, FCP sells the genuine without(?) the impeller. Whats the best route here guys? My understanding from reading this thread is that I want a oem with plastic impeller design. This is for my race car. Where can I find or piece together the assembly that offers lifetime replacement?

Thanks

My best input on this would be to call FCP and ask - I just read their description on the genuine BMW part and it's not clear if it includes it from that - but in the photo there's clearly a plastic impeller that water pump. See what they say!

[Anri]

Lovely work and a great thread to read Anri, thank you.

Which engine oil do you use in S54 engines?

I have been told in the past that the OEM Castrol 20W60 doesn't cling to the components in the top of the engine.

Is 10W40 not a better option, at least on a rebuilt low mileage engine?

427,

Thanks for your reply.

With the risk of turning this thread into oil thread...I am sharing
my personal opinion which may differ to others, often we don't have
to agree on all of it..

Race track 10W60 works great (one can play with straight
viscosity let say W50 but it's tricky and narrowing down conditions)
10W60 will offer wide range of conditions.

East cost people during winter I would use 5W40. 0W50 is also an
option.

Regardless which oil I like to add 500ppm of zinc for our
"friction based" valve train.

10W40 is mid viscosity its nether for cold nor warm..and not my
cup of tea.

With over 15 Blackstone lab oil tests I am seeing oils ZDDP dropped
in 600-700ppm range for 10W60 except RedLine 10W60 is at around
~950rpm. In any case no matter the oil choice I always use Zinc additive
of 500ppm to bring level around 1200-1300ppm but not more.

Regards,
Anri

[EthanolTurbo]

427,

Thanks for your reply.

With the risk of turning this thread into oil thread...I am sharing
my personal opinion which may differ to others, often we don't have
to agree on all of it..

Race track 10W60 works great (one can play with straight
viscosity let say W50 but it's tricky and narrowing down conditions)
10W60 will give wide range of conditions.

East cost people during winter I would use 5W40. 0W50 is also an
option.

Regardless which oil I like to add 500ppm of zinc for our
"friction based" valve train.

10W40 is mid viscosity its nether for cold nor warm..and not my
cup of tea.

With over 15 Blackstone lab oil tests I am seeing oils ZDDP dropped
in 600-700ppm range for 10W60 except RedLine 10W60 is at around
~950rpm. In any case no matter the oil choice I always use Zinc additive
of 500ppm to bring to around 1200-1300ppm but not more.

Regards,
Anri

This is why I use Redline and VR1... high zinc is exactly what this motor needs.

[Anri]

This is why I use Redline and VR1... high zinc is exactly what this motor needs.

Sure, I still I like to be in the range of 1300ppm, I add Zinc even on RedLine oil.

Regards
Anri

[0-60motorsports]

Definitely. All the best with it.

I've been running Motul 300v 10w40 Ester based oil. This was recommended by the guy that built my engine. He is the same guy that builds the engines for Evolve.

So i was just wondering what Anri thought about different grades of engine oil in general.

I would switch to 10w60. Evolves engine builder? and who might that be?

[sapote]

Gents,
I am a bit crazy and tools like leak down tester and compression
tester I always have 2 different gauges and I always take measurement
with both on let say cyl#1 to make sure the reading I am getting is spot
on and then I continue with the Longacre to test the rest.

I use old school but NOS Made in USA Matco and also
I have the Longacre which shows me the exact % which I like better.

Cyl#5 72%

Cyl#6 73%

Anri,

Your leak-down tester gauges should be sent out for calibration
The correct value should be 68% and 67%.

You have done a great job of fixing this engine.

[sapote]

OEM Fan clutch that was 15k old was leaking and was coming on way too late (around 100 degrees C) causing excess heat to kill the head gasket

I don't think this is true if the aux fan and other parts were working properly. Aux fan should be running when the engine coolant is higher than 85C and coolant was flowing through the radiator, and it should keep the engine below 100C with a clean radiator (not covered with debris).

[ac427]

427,

Thanks for your reply.

With the risk of turning this thread into oil thread...I am sharing
my personal opinion which may differ to others, often we don't have
to agree on all of it..

Race track 10W60 works great (one can play with straight
viscosity let say W50 but it's tricky and narrowing down conditions)
10W60 will offer wide range of conditions.

East cost people during winter I would use 5W40. 0W50 is also an
option.

Regardless which oil I like to add 500ppm of zinc for our
"friction based" valve train.

10W40 is mid viscosity its nether for cold nor warm..and not my
cup of tea.

With over 15 Blackstone lab oil tests I am seeing oils ZDDP dropped
in 600-700ppm range for 10W60 except RedLine 10W60 is at around
~950rpm. In any case no matter the oil choice I always use Zinc additive
of 500ppm to bring level around 1200-1300ppm but not more.

Regards,
Anri

Thank you Anri. Which zinc additive do you use?

[Anri]

427,

Any for Hot-Rods but I use RedLine

Regards,
Anri

[Cronenberged]

Will have to researsh zinc levels in Amsoil 0W/60

[Anri]

Will have to researsh zinc levels in Amsoil 0W/60

Buy one bottle, get the Blackstone kit, mail it, and
we will find out.

How I have done it from the begining of my lab
tests on Luquil Moly, Motrul, Castor RS, Shell rotella
Red line back in the days.

Regards,
Anri

[ChapterM3]

Guys, I got the car back on the 23rd and put 500 miles on it for breaking in the motor initially. Yesterday we did the oil change to fresh 10w-60, and I got to go to 8,000rpm for the first time since the build. HOLY $H%T is all I can say for right now. Will give a full review soon, but wanted to first give that update after the first pull yesterday: It is an absolute animal, I don't know what the hell Anri did to it but it has never felt so smooth, so fast and the sound is simply heavenly

[sapote]

I don't know what the hell Anri did to it but it has never felt so smooth, so fast and the sound is simply heavenly

He simply restored it back to the factory spec properly is my guess. GL.

[Anri]

is my guess.

Sapote,

I did OEM plus on the power with some flavor.
Will get on the dyno one of these days. I hope
he has a stock file in the DME.

Regards
Anri