Brake Pads: PFC 08's are high adventure...anyone tried 331 332?

[mrgizmo04]

There needs to be a reason for you to run a split mu pad setup. It affects bias and limit handling. For a car that dives a lot (soft front end) and xfers a lot of weight forward, you might want to run more mu in front, for a car that has rear wing and stiffly sprung front where the car stays level on brakes you might want more rear mu since you have downforce and more grip there, for a stiffly sprung car but that has rear gutted (weight distribution shifted forward) you might want more front mu. For a 50/50 weight distributed car but that sees a lot of hard downhill braking sections you might want to run less rear mu. For an underpowered front axle bbk (like 996), you can run more front mu. It depends what setup you have and what problems you are solving. If you are locking up tires, maybe the answer is not to back off pad mu but to get grippier tires, or adjust your technique and brake earlier and smoother to not upset the car when entering the turn not overbraking and carrying more min speed through the turn.

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[eacmen]

There needs to be a reason for you to run a split mu pad setup. It affects bias and limit handling. For a car that dives a lot (soft front end) and xfers a lot of weight forward, you might want to run more mu in front, for a car that has rear wing and stiffly sprung front where the car stays level on brakes you might want more rear mu since you have downforce and more grip there, for a stiffly sprung car but that has rear gutted (weight distribution shifted forward) you might want more front mu. For a 50/50 weight distributed car but that sees a lot of hard downhill braking sections you might want to run less rear mu. For an underpowered front axle bbk (like 996), you can run more front mu. It depends what setup you have and what problems you are solving.

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Not to hijack op's thread but gutted track car with stiff rear springs and aero and BBK front and rear. Downhill braking causing ABS to freak out and go into ice mode. Damper and adding wing didn't help. First pass is replacing wheel speed sensors even though there are no codes, they are the original sensors. If that doesn't work then I'll try the lower my pads in the rear.

[OldRanger]

Not to hijack op's thread but gutted track car with stiff rear springs and aero and BBK front and rear. Downhill braking causing ABS to freak out and go into ice mode.

No worries! I like the evolution of this thread regardless of where it goes. ABS is difficult to understand, it’s like a black box. Well, to be more accurate, on an E46 it’s like a 20-year-old black box. No AI, no machine learning, and maybe some false assumptions once we start changing pads and rotors.

Caveat: as long as we don’t drift into installing race ABS, I think we’re on point!

[OldRanger]

I now have PFC 331/332 and used them for a day on track (Summit Point Shenandoah - lots of turns). Bottom line - I prefer them over the PFC 08. The initial bite is stronger, and in high speed braking (e.g. from 115+ down to 50), the friction feels steady vs. the increasing rate on the 08. The transition to ‘trail’ braking is predictable.

Not bashing the PFC 08. They were predictable, just not the characteristics I want.

[fourmula1]

I now have PFC 331/332 and used them for a day on track (Summit Point Shenandoah - lots of turns). Bottom line - I prefer them over the PFC 08. The initial bite is stronger, and in high speed braking (e.g. from 115+ down to 50), the friction feels steady vs. the increasing rate on the 08. The transition to ‘trail’ braking is predictable.

Not bashing the PFC 08. They were predictable, just not the characteristics I want.

Nice! Thanks for sharing your feedback. The 331/332 have been great for me.

[Nate047]

Not trying to thread jack but I have a set of brand new never used 331/332 for our cars for sale if anyone wants them