Advice on getting the front differential bolt torqued to spec on jack stands

[Epsilon]

My car is on jacks right now and I can't seem to get enough leverage to get the front differential bolt torqued to 128 ft-lb. I'm using 6-ton stands which already gives me a decent amount of height for home use, but apparently not enough. My new Craftsman torque wrench would bottom out which makes it difficult for me to get leverage. I also tried to use my floor jack to tighten the bolt, but due to the accumulated play in the sockets and ratcheting mechanism, it is difficult to get it to hold while I pump the jack.

Any advice appreciated.

Edited: Proper torque should be 200nm or 147.5 ft-lb torque.

[9kracing]

If you can live with it being within 10-15 ft-lb or so, almost every entry level impact driver is rated for right around that amount of torque.

https://youtu.be/HpSRkVA7L1A?si=gt5VrrG5Ne3nhUje&t=213

Not sure how exact you're trying to be

[OldRanger]

I remember having this issue while replacing a diff with the car on jack stands. IIRC I swapped over to a 16" long 1/2" drive breaker bar and guessed. It was the best option I had at the time, and all is well.

I can think of a couple options that involve friends: 1) find someone local on the board that has Quick Jacks or a lift at home. 2) find a vehicle or equipment trailer with open center section sufficient for access.

[Epsilon]

I'm not even trying to be accurate, but just don't want it to fall loose during an adventure drive. I do have a few Ryobi impact drivers, but was afraid of stripping the bolt since it only has adjustment for different levels.

[D-O]

If I recall correctly, it was two short wobble extensions and a 12pt socket.

Good luck.

D-O

[Epsilon]

I can think of a couple options that involve friends: 1) find someone local on the board that has Quick Jacks or a lift at home. 2) find a vehicle or equipment trailer with open center section sufficient for access.

My car is lifted ~23 inches off the ground which is close to QuickJack's 24" height. Perhaps, I'm just not strong enough. May require a local member to help out if they have the time and I can feed him. In South Bay of California if anyone can provide a hand.

[Epsilon]

If I recall correctly, it was two short wobble extensions and a 12pt socket.

Good luck.

D-O

You're thinking of the rear diff bolts?

[bmwfnatic]

I would probably just get it as tight as you can with a ratchet that does have clearance and then see if there is one of those DIY lift for rent places nearby, drive it there slowly and torque it fully.

Otherwise just ask any place with a lift like a tyre center, muffler shop, or anything else with a lift if you may use it for 5 minutes for a few bucks.

[D-O]

You're thinking of the rear diff bolts?

No sir. The upper rear diff bolts required a very short 6 point socket. If I recall, it was a 3/8 or 7/16 snap on 6 point. It is quite a bit shorter than my e-torx sockets, which allowed it to fit between the diff and the body. It fit the e-torx bolt head perfectly.

For the front I needed to get the torque wrench out beyond the part of the sub-frame that surrounds the bolt. To be clear, they were short wobble extensions, not universal joints. It was a wonky deal, but it worked.

I was on quickjacks (~24").

[bigjae46]

Big Milwaukee impact and a harbor freight swivel joint. That should get the bolt pretty close to 128 ft/lbs so it’s less than a 1/4 turn on the torque wrench.

[9kracing]

I do have a few Ryobi impact drivers, but was afraid of stripping the bolt since it only has adjustment for different levels.

I'd give it 5-10 seconds with your cheapest Ryobi and call it a day, you should be pretty damn close to 130 ft-lbs

[01SG]

I thought the diff bolt was 148 ft lbs? If not, I am sure as hell glad mine didn't break when I put it there.

It shouldn't be so difficult. Are you sure it isn't cross-threaded? Have you put something like a metal pipe on the end of the wrench to get more leverage? That really should not be necessary though. Be very careful if you're doing that under there, the bolt might break and the tool may slip. But that really should not be necessary..

I don't recall it having to be that high off the ground either.

Finding just the right size extension to clear the housing and not interfere with the floor or frame on the other end worked with my 1/2 inch Snap-on. And I am not the biggest guy.

[enjoy_m3]

Assuming your wrench can do 128 ft/lbs, use a pipe for leverage. Are your rear diff bolts slightly loose? I typically leave them a little loose so I can remove load on the front diff bolt with a jack and then tighten it. It was a little tricky but has worked for me.

[bigjae46]

I thought the diff bolt was 148 ft lbs? If not, I am sure as hell glad mine didn't break when I put it there.

It shouldn't be so difficult. Are you sure it isn't cross-threaded? Have you put something like a metal pipe on the end of the wrench to get more leverage? That really should not be necessary though. Be very careful if you're doing that under there, the bolt might break and the tool may slip. But that really should not be necessary..

I don't recall it having to be that high off the ground either.

Finding just the right size extension to clear the housing and not interfere with the floor or frame on the other end worked with my 1/2 inch Snap-on. And I am not the biggest guy.

Might be...its thankfully been a little while since I've need to remove the diff.

[kaiv]

FYI the front diff bolt is 200NM so that would be 147.5 ft lb.