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    #31
    Originally posted by Ma13tt View Post

    I agree. Tonight's project remove the old rotor and pads to takes pictures as comparison and I will post. Fun. Lol


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    I will say that the sparks are normal when bedding aggressive pads. However the rotor wear is not normal. Maybe girodisc sent you a bad batch of rotors.

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      #32
      Do you mind me asking what your bedding procedure is?
      2004 Dinan S3-R M3
      2012 Dinan S1 X5M

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        #33
        Originally posted by Ma13tt View Post

        The rotors feel like a record.


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        Do you have a photo of the pads that made that rotor do that?

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          #34
          Originally posted by PurelliCondoms View Post


          I will say that the sparks are normal when bedding aggressive pads. However the rotor wear is not normal. Maybe girodisc sent you a bad batch of rotors.
          I bought them from Bimmerworld. I think the metallurgy of the rotor is softer than the pad. Pulling pads tonight. Will take photos and post.


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            #35
            Originally posted by 9kracing View Post
            Do you mind me asking what your bedding procedure is?
            I start off going up 30-35 mph brakes to 10 mph. Repeat 5x. Take up to 45mph brake to 10 5x. Go to 65 mph 5x. Take up to 80mph brake to 10 mph 2x. Aggressive braking not locking the wheels.


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              #36
              Originally posted by eacmen View Post

              Do you have a photo of the pads that made that rotor do that?
              Tonight's project


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                #37
                Originally posted by Ma13tt View Post

                I start off going up 30-35 mph brakes to 10 mph. Repeat 5x. Take up to 45mph brake to 10 5x. Go to 65 mph 5x. Take up to 80mph brake to 10 mph 2x. Aggressive braking not locking the wheels.


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                I think you'll find the Zeckhausen method will produce better results:
                1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
                2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
                3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
                4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
                5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC11 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 20 mph.
                ​https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Estoril View Post

                  I think you'll find the Zeckhausen method will produce better results:
                  1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
                  2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
                  3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
                  4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
                  5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC11 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 20 mph.
                  ​https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443
                  this +1

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                    #39
                    At what point would you stop trying if you continued to see sparks on the first few runs?


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                      #40
                      If I saw the fireworks that you saw and I wasnt braking from 160mph, i would stop right away.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by eacmen View Post
                        If I saw the fireworks that you saw and I wasnt braking from 160mph, i would stop right away.
                        Ok, good. Sanity check. I feel better. That makes 2 of us. I must have made 6 runs from 60mph - 20mph. Before getting the Mrs. out with her phone to video this. My buddy said I was stupid to keep going. $700 vs $35k car, not a good trade. Bimmerworld was like, send it. I'm embellishing for any one from Bimmerworld monitoring this thread but you guys aren't concerned. GiroDisc guys were little more interested. I would be happy to package them up with the pads and have them send it. An individual said he beds his in on the track. I guess they have the first few laps under caution. I can't imagine me lining up at Road America last weekend going into the first turn like the 4th July. By the second turn black flag for car 213 (get off the track clown).


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                        Last edited by Ma13tt; 09-26-2023, 05:34 PM.

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                          #42
                          That rotor looks fine. Not even that blued. Sparks win cool points
                          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                          "Do it right once or do it twice"

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
                            That rotor looks fine. Not even that blued. Sparks win cool points
                            The rotor doesnt worry me that much. But street bedding like that shouldn't spark that much unless you're driving way too fast on the street.

                            I've used pfc08 alot with stoptech and oem rotors and never got sparks like that during bed in.

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                              The rotor doesnt worry me that much. But street bedding like that shouldn't spark that much unless you're driving way too fast on the street.

                              I've used pfc08 alot with stoptech and oem rotors and never got sparks like that during bed in.
                              I was not going that fast. As I started to bed the rotors in, sparks got consistently worse. I made 5 passes from 30 mph to 10 mph, in quick succession, then a few passes from 60mph to 20mph before calling the wife to video me. The passes I made while she shot the videos, I didn't even get to 50 mph.
                              Here is a picture of my older/current rotors


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                              Last edited by Ma13tt; 09-27-2023, 05:44 PM.

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                                #45
                                Here is a picture of my brake pads. PFC 08. I'm calling them tomorrow. See what they say.


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