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Electric Fan Conversion - Spal's 30102803HO most powerful sealed fan

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    #61
    Originally posted by George Hill View Post
    He's saying that one wire sensors use the sensor body as ground and when that is screwed into something like the coolant tube (as yours is) the o-rings will sometimes provide enough insulation that the electrical ground will not be complete. This could result in the sensor working inconsistently or not at all. If that is the case I adding a wire from the sensor body to ground usually solves that, but using a 2 wire sensor with a dedicated ground wire will also work.
    I've never had any issues... interesting. I guess the next time I take the manifold off, I'll drop in a grounded sensor.. That way I don't lose any sleep

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      #62
      Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post

      Nope all stock.
      Are you running with the AUX fan delete? I plan to install the 2082 and wondering if I need to delete the AUX fan if I want to use the OEM controller.

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        #63
        Originally posted by 332 View Post

        I've never had any issues... interesting. I guess the next time I take the manifold off, I'll drop in a grounded sensor.. That way I don't lose any sleep
        Perhaps the coolant conducts electricity and a ground is achieved through the engine earth?

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          #64
          Originally posted by 332 View Post

          I've never had any issues... interesting. I guess the next time I take the manifold off, I'll drop in a grounded sensor.. That way I don't lose any sleep
          There is some play in the pipe so you can move it back and forth. If that part is shoved up against the t-stat housing or the coolant pipe then it will ground. Just depends on how it is sitting.

          Maybe the part you are using is a tad longer so the ends sit flush against the adjacent parts.

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            #65
            Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

            There is some play in the pipe so you can move it back and forth. If that part is shoved up against the t-stat housing or the coolant pipe then it will ground. Just depends on how it is sitting.

            Maybe the part you are using is a tad longer so the ends sit flush against the adjacent parts.
            That makes a lot more sense, I tried to find the vac part but either I'm too dumb or its not longer made. I can't find anything on technica, I know a lot race teams. Drill and tap a sensor into the top of the thermostat housing, I believe BW sells something for it! Here we go https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...10_p_2498.html appears RE is making them. However, I'm realizing my heater core is deleted. Having that sensor where it is, is wrong. It needs to be moved to the Tstat housing, and I need to add this https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...ter_p_335.html . Really happy with this revelation!

            Last edited by 332; 08-08-2025, 06:32 AM.

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              #66
              Originally posted by 332 View Post

              That makes a lot more sense, I tried to find the vac part but either I'm too dumb or its not longer made. I can't find anything on technica, I know a lot race teams. Drill and tap a sensor into the top of the thermostat housing, I believe BW sells something for it! Here we go https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...10_p_2498.html appears RE is making them. However, I'm realizing my heater core is deleted. Having that sensor where it is, is wrong. It needs to be moved to the Tstat housing, and I need to add this https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...ter_p_335.html . Really happy with this revelation!
              I just TIG welded a bung into the t-stat housing.

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                #67
                Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                I just TIG welded a bung into the t-stat housing.
                That works too!

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                  #68
                  If you want a good 2 wire temp switch, I suggest the "American Volt" ones :

                  Amazon.com: American Volt Electric Engine Fan Power Thermostat Switch Temp Sensor Threaded NPT Brass Probe 2-Pack (1/8" NPT, 200'F On - 185'F Off) : Automotive

                  I like them because you can swap the switch (and thus the triggering temperature) without opening the circuit and thus making a mess and/or needing to bleed your coolant system.

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                    #69
                    Originally posted by m3_sancho View Post
                    Are you running with the AUX fan delete? I plan to install the 2082 and wondering if I need to delete the AUX fan if I want to use the OEM controller.
                    Nope both fans. If you want to use the OEM controller for your Spal fan then yes.

                    Originally posted by MarcoPolo View Post
                    I'm in the process of doing a cooling refresh. did a 3 day track weekend here in NJ (NJMP) and temps were @ 100 and coolant stayed @ 210. had to do cool down every 3-4 laps cuz it wouldn't keep up.

                    regardless, i see your auto cool fan controller and i ilke it but curious, any reason why the derale PWM controller wouldn't be just as good. it has a flush mount temp probe thats PnP. not saying one is better than the other. just honestly uninformed so looking to see what i'm not seeing. or did you go w temp probe for something more accurate? thanks.
                    Derale fan controllers fail frequently. I went thru 2 on my Chevy Silverado years ago. Flush mount sensors do the job but a probe in the cooling line is more accurate.
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                      #70
                      Picked this up today, I'm going to rework my cooling system/E fan. thread inc soon

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