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Electric Fan Conversion - Spal's 30102803HO most powerful sealed fan
He's saying that one wire sensors use the sensor body as ground and when that is screwed into something like the coolant tube (as yours is) the o-rings will sometimes provide enough insulation that the electrical ground will not be complete. This could result in the sensor working inconsistently or not at all. If that is the case I adding a wire from the sensor body to ground usually solves that, but using a 2 wire sensor with a dedicated ground wire will also work.
I've never had any issues... interesting. I guess the next time I take the manifold off, I'll drop in a grounded sensor.. That way I don't lose any sleep
I've never had any issues... interesting. I guess the next time I take the manifold off, I'll drop in a grounded sensor.. That way I don't lose any sleep
Perhaps the coolant conducts electricity and a ground is achieved through the engine earth?
I've never had any issues... interesting. I guess the next time I take the manifold off, I'll drop in a grounded sensor.. That way I don't lose any sleep
There is some play in the pipe so you can move it back and forth. If that part is shoved up against the t-stat housing or the coolant pipe then it will ground. Just depends on how it is sitting.
Maybe the part you are using is a tad longer so the ends sit flush against the adjacent parts.
There is some play in the pipe so you can move it back and forth. If that part is shoved up against the t-stat housing or the coolant pipe then it will ground. Just depends on how it is sitting.
Maybe the part you are using is a tad longer so the ends sit flush against the adjacent parts.
That makes a lot more sense, I tried to find the vac part but either I'm too dumb or its not longer made. I can't find anything on technica, I know a lot race teams. Drill and tap a sensor into the top of the thermostat housing, I believe BW sells something for it! Here we go https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...10_p_2498.html appears RE is making them. However, I'm realizing my heater core is deleted. Having that sensor where it is, is wrong. It needs to be moved to the Tstat housing, and I need to add this https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...ter_p_335.html . Really happy with this revelation!
That makes a lot more sense, I tried to find the vac part but either I'm too dumb or its not longer made. I can't find anything on technica, I know a lot race teams. Drill and tap a sensor into the top of the thermostat housing, I believe BW sells something for it! Here we go https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...10_p_2498.html appears RE is making them. However, I'm realizing my heater core is deleted. Having that sensor where it is, is wrong. It needs to be moved to the Tstat housing, and I need to add this https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...ter_p_335.html . Really happy with this revelation!
I like them because you can swap the switch (and thus the triggering temperature) without opening the circuit and thus making a mess and/or needing to bleed your coolant system.
I'm in the process of doing a cooling refresh. did a 3 day track weekend here in NJ (NJMP) and temps were @ 100 and coolant stayed @ 210. had to do cool down every 3-4 laps cuz it wouldn't keep up.
regardless, i see your auto cool fan controller and i ilke it but curious, any reason why the derale PWM controller wouldn't be just as good. it has a flush mount temp probe thats PnP. not saying one is better than the other. just honestly uninformed so looking to see what i'm not seeing. or did you go w temp probe for something more accurate? thanks.
Derale fan controllers fail frequently. I went thru 2 on my Chevy Silverado years ago. Flush mount sensors do the job but a probe in the cooling line is more accurate.
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