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DIY - High Pressure P/S Hose

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    DIY - High Pressure P/S Hose

    CREDIT TO ORIGINAL AUTHOR M3Seeto - saving this from the disappearing m3forum cache

    "My high pressure P/S hose Leaked at the crimped joints and it seems to be a common problem. I was looking for a DIY and i couldnt find it anywhere in this forum, only a few instructions. Mine was caught leaking at 45k miles.


    The dealer wanted $600 to replace it including part and labor and some people claim to have fixed it from the dealer around the same price. Ive seen the images and it seems to be an easy fix. There is no way to fix it other than replacing the Hose with a new one.

    Ive changed out the hose last 2 weeks and took some pictures to put up a DIY for everyone else. Took me 1.5 hrs to fix this. Its an easy fix and please dont pay someone $400 to unbolt 3 fasteners and replace the P/S fluid.


    Part Schematics

    Hose number 3 and all the crimped joints on my hose were leaking.



    Cost/Parts needed

    The replacement part
    1) Part number 3
    P/N 32412283893 = $135 + free shipping.
    (Bought from Pelicanparts.com and is the cheapest i could find)

    2) ATF Fluid
    = mobil 1 ATF ( I used this) or Redline D4ATF
    = any Dexron III or Dexron IV ATF Fluid (need Comfirmation ?)

    3) Part Number 5 - Gasket Ring A16 X 22 (2 needed)
    P/N 32-41-1-093-597 = $0.50

    4) Part Number 7 - Gasket Ring A14 X 20 (2 needed)
    P/N 32-41-1-093-596 = $0.25


    Methods
    1) Jack up the front and remove diaper


    2) Open the hood
    - look at the Driver side of the engine , in between the intake side and the engine, You will see the P/S Reservoir.


    3) Removing Fluid in the P/S fluid reservoir.
    Get the Parts As in picture : -
    a) shampoo Pump ( Bought from autozone or harborfreight for 3 bucks ) or use your wives/gf/your old shampoo pump.
    b) an Empty bottle and configure as in picture


    4) Extracting P/S fluid from reservoir.
    - Configure as in pictures and start pumping until reservoir empty.
    - Pump away !!


    5) High Pressure P/S hose Location
    - Next go under the car.
    - Once you remove the diaper, you will see the High Pressure P/S hose as pictured below. You cant miss it


    6) Pictures of Bolts that need to be removed
    - Note that this is at the drivers side
    - Bolt 1/Banjo M16 = 22mm (Short socket)
    - Bolt 2/Banjo M14 = 19mm
    Note : need confirmation for bolt size.





    7) Removing Bolt 1
    - Note that there is a belt by the side of bolt 1. Use plastic to cover them As in pictured to prevent any fluid contamination towards the belt.
    - Place an oil pan below bolt 1 to catch the P/S Fluid.


    8) Pumping all P/S fluid out
    - Go in the car put the key to 1 or 2, dont start the engine
    - turn the steering full lock left and full lock right a couple of times.
    - Fluid will be drained out of the removed bolt location and the removed hose end.

    9) Refer Pictures in step 6) and remove bolt number 2

    10) Removing Support Bracket
    There is a bracket near the Passenger side of the engine, near the U joint of the hose (Reference Step 11 Picture). Its pretty self explanatory on how to remove it and reinstall them.
    - Use 10mm socket.

    11) Comparison of new and used hose.


    12) Reinstallation
    - Note 4 crush washers needs to be replaced and both bolts have different size
    - (replace with Part 3/4 on the parts needed Section, See above)
    - Bolt 1 (Banjo M16) - torque to 40Nm
    - Bolt 2 (banjo M14) - Torque to 35Nm
    Note : i need confirmation for the torque spec because it is not clearly stated on TIS. I followed the torque spec and it worked fine for me, no leaks etc etc




    13) Pictures of Reinstalled Parts






    14) Fill up the P/S fluid in the reservoir.
    - fill up the reservoir with the p/s fluid
    - Turn key to position 1 or 2 and turn lock to lock a couple of times to bleed of the air in the system
    - Check the reservoir and refill in between max and min (Dont overfill)
    - Check for leaks !!!
    - Lower car
    - Drive around and turn lock to lock a couple of times and refill if needed."

    #2
    You my friend are doing the lords work with a post like this 😀

    Thank you.

    Comment


      #3
      Yup, not a hard job at all. I had a HP line burst on me once, and its no fun (145K miles, though).
      BMW / E46M Interior & Trim Restoration.
      https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...ch-restoration

      Comment


        #4
        Nice DIY...🤙
        TTFS Engine/SMG Tune - CSL 255 - SGT Headers/Sect 1/SCZA
        Brembo 996 - ARC-8's - BWS 500S 9k/11k - Valentine 1 - BlueBus - Orion V4's
        Evolve Eventuri
        - VIS XTS CF Hood - CF Lip/Console/Diffuser/CSL Trunk

        Comment

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