Buying Beisan VANOS, What Else Do I Need?

[sapote]

Here's my final order list:

Beisan	New Vanos	$1,500.00
Beisan	Exhaust Sprocket Hub	$300.00
Beisan	Exhaust Upper Chain Guide	$80.00
Beisan	New o-rings for oil flow regulator	$10.00
Dr Vanos	S54 Upper Chain Guide	$68.00
Dr Vanos	Cam Bolts	$40.00
Dr Vanos	Oil Line	$74.00
Dr Vanos	S54 Modified Exhaust Gear	$125.00
FCP Euro	Vanos Gasket	$10.00
FCP Euro	Valve Cover Gasket	$107.00
Labor		$1,000.00
		$3,314.00

Wow, but be warned that the brand new vanos might not as good as the old stock disk and 4 matching pumping pistons; a few stories of the newly made disk/pistons seized up and screwed the engine. More moneys spent and a bigger headache.

I would just redrill the disk with proper smaller holes and Loctite the cam sleeve bolts. Optional you might replace the vanos piston seals. Done.

Btw,

Dr Vanos

S54 Upper Chain Guide

Beisan

Exhaust Upper Chain Guide

They are the same so why buy two?


why do you need this one?

Dr Vanos

S54 Modified Exhaust Gear

[inlinesix123]

Beissan is fantastic, good luck!!

[YoungDinosaur]

Can save yourself about 1250$ by just getting a pump disk and all seals from Beisan, there's nothing to benefit from replacing a 62k mile VANOS.

I couldn't find anyone in Denver to rebuild the Vanos for cheap so that's why I'm going with the brand new Vanos and spending the extra money. If a shop did do a rebuild price was close to the cost of a full replacement. And almost every shop was replacement only.

Inspect yours first, if it is not broken or damaged, no need to replace, I have seen 200k mile ones that are still in one piece, saves 400$.

I agree this is overkill. Beisan kind of talked me into the fact that it couldn't hurt to bulletproof it.

Not sure why we are replacing this, generally don't see much wear on these, if you insist, FCPEuro has it cheaper.

Part of the "while we are in there" bullet proofing.

As I said in my first reply, these are just the original BMW parts, I am not certain these are improved at all over the original design, I personally use 12.9 versions like Lang sells.

I have ordered the Lang Racing bolts as suggested. I didn't really understand at first that there is a difference in the metal hardness. I'll return the DrVanos bolts.

I wouldn't use this, looks tacky, the updated original BMW piece is a fine replacement.

Agreed. I have the part in hand though and the OEM part is 3x the cost.

Another reason why I don't like Dr.Vanos, why just sell one of these, why not both.
For this money just buy the Beisan Rattle Kit and Tool, then you can do both intake and exhaust, but as others have said, might not even be needed at your milage.

This is part of the DrVanos anti-rattle kit which is completely different from Beisan. The polished gears seemed like they wouldn't really do anything and one other member mentioned that they also installed this part. I figured, why not?

[karter16]

This is part of the DrVanos anti-rattle kit which is completely different from Beisan. The polished gears seemed like they wouldn't really do anything and one other member mentioned that they also installed this part. I figured, why not?

Because as it stands there is nothing in your list of parts that addresses rattle in the intake spline. As bmwfnatic says if you want to address this then purchase the Beisan rattle kit instead and do both, rather than replacing just the exhaust one and not doing anything to the intake.

(As bmwfnatic has said this may not be needed at your milage anyway).

As others have noted you stand to spend a lot more money here than is necessary. Appreciate that you want to "do it all while you're there" preventatively, however do keep in mind that the Vanos system is finicky at the best of times and you risk introducing new problems and further expenses if you aren't careful. I would certainly make sure you read up about the issues Beisan had with their "new" discs (as opposed to predrilled discs). Throwing more money at this than less doesn't necessarily improve/fix anything in a more permanent way.

[rickybobby]

Feels like drilled disk is still a great bang for your buck in this scenario

[Cubieman]

Feels like drilled disk is still a great bang for your buck in this scenario

Keeping your OEM disc or at least an OEM disc is what I'll always suggest.

I'm jaded though as my "aftermarket" Besian disc unfortunately did not have the ability to deliver sufficient oil pressure to vanos resulting it terrible response times when tested.

Maybe they have since fixed this issue, I had to go in there twice as a result, but Raj (RIP) was quite nice/helpful, even refunded all my money for other items I bought from him that were 100% fine, basically got a free vanos "bulletproofing" in the end.


Agree with others, OP is spending way too much here, but if money isn't an issue and all these parts make him feel better, OK.

[Slideways]

Keeping your OEM disc or at least an OEM disc is what I'll always suggest.

I'm jaded though as my "aftermarket" Besian disc unfortunately did not have the ability to deliver sufficient oil pressure to vanos resulting it terrible response times when tested.

Maybe they have since fixed this issue, I had to go in there twice as a result, but Raj (RIP) was quite nice/helpful, even refunded all my money for other items I bought from him that were 100% fine, basically got a free vanos "bulletproofing" in the end.


Agree with others, OP is spending way too much here, but if money isn't an issue and all these parts make him feel better, OK.

They made the new discs because some people were not sending back the originals. They have since gone back to redrilling original discs as they built up stock.

[Cubieman]

They made the new discs because some people were not sending back the originals. They have since gone back to redrilling original discs as they built up stock.

Makes sense, was not aware of that.
I liked the idea of the aftermarket discs as regardless of cores we have discs for our cars, just needed a few kinks worked out.

[ac427]

I've never seen the point of the anti-rattle kit. These engines aren't that quiet anyway. Has anyone actually found their engine to be quieter after fitting them?

As mentioned drilling the disc is the best option.

Yep, those Torx bolts are made of the same material as the Allen key bolts. I believe the E36 M3 bolts are made of a harder material. Just buy some 12.9 bolts from anywhere.

OP could invest in a gauge and adapter to measure the vanos pump pressure before he does the rebuild. It would be an interesting to see oil pressure before and after the vanos rebuild work.

Is the upper chain guide mentioned supposed to be superior to the OEM part?

[maupineda]

Does anyone know if the new units have their own discs redrilled, or they mix and match form their stock? Even if original, it would be best to keep the disc the unit came with.

[Slideways]

Does anyone know if the new units have their own discs redrilled, or they mix and match form their stock? Even if original, it would be best to keep the disc the unit came with.

I would think that they mix and match as they redrill the disks in batches.

[bmwfnatic]

Does anyone know if the new units have their own discs redrilled, or they mix and match form their stock? Even if original, it would be best to keep the disc the unit came with.

I have one here on hand, I had the same concern but on mine it’s 100% a redrilled new disk, there is 0 wear on the original holes.

[karter16]

I've never seen the point of the anti-rattle kit. These engines aren't that quiet anyway. Has anyone actually found their engine to be quieter after fitting them?

I guess it's hard to say for sure right, overall rebuilding the VANOS made a massive difference to noise for me, however at the same time as doing the rattle kit I replaced the broken upper chain tensioner guide, redrilled disc, etc so without testing each component individually its impossible to know.


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[ac427]

I guess it's hard to say for sure right, overall rebuilding the VANOS made a massive difference to noise for me, however at the same time as doing the rattle kit I replaced the broken upper chain tensioner guide, redrilled disc, etc so without testing each component individually its impossible to know.


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True. I don't think those S62 diaphragm springs are worth bothering with either.

[karter16]

True. I don't think those S62 diaphragm springs are worth bothering with either.

Yeah I did them back in 2016 because that seemed to be the best thing to do at the time. I think next time I'll go back to the S54 ones, there seems to be some evidence out there that response times are adversely affected.


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