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    #16
    Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
    Anyone have any experience with this tool for starter bolt removal?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...2KNDBWYV&psc=1

    I just use a closed end wrench, 10mm I think.

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      #17
      The hardest part of removing starter is getting it off the stupid very tight dowel pin.

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        #18
        Originally posted by sapote View Post

        All happened on the same car? Second starter was removed from other car and used on that same car?

        I start to think the problem is not bad starter; something else.
        1. With alternator running and output 14v, measure the batt posts voltage and if it's less than 13.5v then the big cable connection from starter to fender post to batter post is not good. Remove and clean up the fender jumper post, and the engine short ground cable connection.
        2. Maybe the starter motor doesn't get full current to spin it. Could be solenoid doesn't get full voltage to engage the starter motor contacts due to connection from starter to EWS module pin. Starter has the big red cable bolted down by the 13mm nut, and the smaller EWS cable bolted by the 10mm nut. I would try to short out from the 13mm nut to the 10mm nut directly using a screwdriver (working from under with the left front wheel removed and maybe the lower control arm two 16mm bolts removed for more room). If this crank the engine strong, then look for bad connection from 10mm nut to EWS connector, or even the EWS board with pitted internal relay contacts.


        Thank you! I'll make sure all the wiring is okay. It does turn over though, a single crank, but then stops. Lights dim during this and it sucks huge amounts of power from my jumpbox. It acts like it has a bad battery - but the battery is fine. I've swapped good known good batteries, tired jump boxes etc.
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          #19
          Originally posted by liam821 View Post


          Thank you! I'll make sure all the wiring is okay. It does turn over though, a single crank, but then stops. Lights dim during this and it sucks huge amounts of power from my jumpbox. It acts like it has a bad battery - but the battery is fine. I've swapped good known good batteries, tired jump boxes etc.
          You can disassemble the starter and inspect it. It is straightforward. You might find the internals caked in clutch material, grease, and crap. It might help to degrease, clean and lube everything and then bolt on a new solenoid.

          But I'd check the power wire first..it's free and relatively easy,

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            #20
            Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

            You can disassemble the starter and inspect it. It is straightforward. You might find the internals caked in clutch material, grease, and crap. It might help to degrease, clean and lube everything and then bolt on a new solenoid.

            But I'd check the power wire first..it's free and relatively easy,
            I did inspect the power cable the last time I swapped starters a few months ago, it seems fine to me. My car doesn't leak any oil (really!) so I'm going to imagine the starter will come out clean - but we'll see. I'll take it apart this weekend and report back.
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              #21
              Originally posted by liam821 View Post

              I did inspect the power cable the last time I swapped starters a few months ago, it seems fine to me. My car doesn't leak any oil (really!) so I'm going to imagine the starter will come out clean - but we'll see. I'll take it apart this weekend and report back.
              Did you resistance test the wire? It could look OK but the wire could be broken inside of the insulation. Or the crimps could be coming loose. This would increase the resistance of the wire. Ohms law - voltage = Current * Resistance. Or current = voltage/resistance. Assuming voltage remains constant - increasing resistance reduces current. So if you turn the key, activate the solenoid it will demand so much current to turn.

              I'd start with a multimeter. Disconnect both end and apply the probe. Should get something like .01 ohms. Then check to see if the wire or solenoid get super hot when you try and crank the engine. The fact that you've smoked 3 starters in a short period of time leads me to believe its an electrical issue.

              Also check the battery to firewall, fire wall to starter, starter to alternator...I think that's the order. But there are multiple sections of the battery cable that needs to be disconnected and ohm'd or resistance tested.

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                #22
                Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                Did you resistance test the wire? It could look OK but the wire could be broken inside of the insulation. Or the crimps could be coming loose. This would increase the resistance of the wire. Ohms law - voltage = Current * Resistance. Or current = voltage/resistance. Assuming voltage remains constant - increasing resistance reduces current. So if you turn the key, activate the solenoid it will demand so much current to turn.

                I'd start with a multimeter. Disconnect both end and apply the probe. Should get something like .01 ohms. Then check to see if the wire or solenoid get super hot when you try and crank the engine. The fact that you've smoked 3 starters in a short period of time leads me to believe its an electrical issue.

                Also check the battery to firewall, fire wall to starter, starter to alternator...I think that's the order. But there are multiple sections of the battery cable that needs to be disconnected and ohm'd or resistance tested.
                Excellent advice. I'll do that.
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                  #23
                  Originally posted by PSUEng View Post
                  Anyone have any experience with this tool for starter bolt removal?

                  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...2KNDBWYV&psc=1

                  Buy this one, https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...MuNDkifQ%3D%3D
                  Can confirm worked great.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by liam821 View Post


                    It does turn over though, a single crank, but then stops. Lights dim during this and it sucks huge amounts of power from my jumpbox. It acts like it has a bad battery - but the battery is fine. I've swapped good known good batteries, tired jump boxes etc.
                    The jumpbox was used even with a good known battery? Then why a good known battery alone was not enough - bad cable connection at batt positive post (this caused the lights dim as they are connected by a separate cable to the positive post)?
                    I would look carefully at the said post clamp to the copper cable for a solid connection.
                    Last edited by sapote; 02-01-2024, 09:10 PM.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                      Did you resistance test the wire? It could look OK but the wire could be broken inside of the insulation. Or the crimps could be coming loose. This would increase the resistance of the wire. Ohms law - voltage = Current * Resistance. Or current = voltage/resistance. Assuming voltage remains constant - increasing resistance reduces current. So if you turn the key, activate the solenoid it will demand so much current to turn.

                      I'd start with a multimeter. Disconnect both end and apply the probe. Should get something like .01 ohms. Then check to see if the wire or solenoid get super hot when you try and crank the engine. The fact that you've smoked 3 starters in a short period of time leads me to believe its an electrical issue.

                      Also check the battery to firewall, fire wall to starter, starter to alternator...I think that's the order. But there are multiple sections of the battery cable that needs to be disconnected and ohm'd or resistance tested.
                      Further reading for anyone who wants to understand electrical testing a little better.

                      Attached Files
                      /// 2004 SGM/IR - Build Thread

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by sapote View Post

                        The jumpbox was used even with a good known battery? Then why a good known battery alone was not enough - bad cable connection at batt positive post (this caused the lights dim as they are connected by a separate cable to the positive post)?
                        I would look carefully at the said post clamp to the copper cable for a solid connection.
                        The Forum starter had this same problem, and replacing it fixed it. I couldn't find anything wrong with the power leads - I just figured it was huge internal resistance in the starter.
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                          #27
                          Just an update. I wasn't able to find anything wrong with the power cables, wiring, etc. I ended up buying a new starter from FCPEuro, swapped it in, and it fixed the problem. I guess my last starter was just a dud.
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                            #28
                            Originally posted by liam821 View Post
                            Just an update. I wasn't able to find anything wrong with the power cables, wiring, etc. I ended up buying a new starter from FCPEuro, swapped it in, and it fixed the problem. I guess my last starter was just a dud.
                            did you go with a Valeo starter?
                            /// 2004 SGM/IR - Build Thread

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post

                              did you go with a Valeo starter?
                              My last two that broke was Valeo, so this new one was a Bosch. It was on sale at FCPEuro for $171 so I jumped on that.
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                                #30
                                Originally posted by liam821 View Post
                                Just an update. I wasn't able to find anything wrong with the power cables, wiring, etc. I ended up buying a new starter from FCPEuro, swapped it in, and it fixed the problem. I guess my last starter was just a dud.
                                Just curious, remove/replace starter at the engine bay, or wokring under the tranny?

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