Those who have DIY'd rod bearings, what angle tool would you prefer?

[bavarian3]

If you had to do it again, what tool would you prefer for doing the single sweep for the angle on the rod bolt.

I'm collecting tools for this job for my 2001 with presumably m11 bolts if that makes a difference. Working under quickjacks and plan to fully remove the subframe.

-3/8" digital torque wrench (roughly 5-100ft lb)
-1/2" digital torque wrench (roughly 25-250ft lb)
-3/8" or 1/2" breaker bar with an analog angle reader
-something else?

[bmwfnatic]

I used the 3/8 snap on digital, the 1/2 would probably require less effort but its more awkward due to the added length.

[Cubieman]

I used the 1/2" Techangle, doing it with the 3/8" would require some muscle for sure.
I wish I would have noted the nm/lbs when the angle was applied but I feel like it would be close to if not maxing out the 3/8th Techangle.

The 1/2" works well, just need to plan out your movements.


EDIT: I did this on 2004 vehicle, I see yours is 2001.

[bavarian3]

that’s exactly what i was thinking is if it would max out the torque capacity.
if the 1/2” fits, it seems this would make things easier. some of them do run super long though.

[Gt4]

2001 with M11 are also easiser to torque vs M10. I use 1/2 drive and like the extra length.

If you don’t have a digital angle torque wrench, the Hazet analog angle reader adapter with 1/2 breaker bar work really well

Cheap analog model work like crap IMO, it needs to spin without restriction

[bigjae46]

1/2” Techangle

[D-O]

Another vote for 1/2" Techangle

[beyondm3]

I used 3/8" and it worked well but it did take some more muscling than I anticipated.

[cobra]

I used the mechanical one with breaker bar since there's 0% chance of error due to sensor calibration or low battery or whatever.

[Obioban]

I have a 1/2" and 3/8" Techangle that I use, plus a dumb torque wrench.

Dumb one for the seating torque, 3/8" for the torque spec, 1/2" for the angle torque.

[bavarian3]

I have a 1/2" and 3/8" Techangle that I use, plus a dumb torque wrench.

Dumb one for the seating torque, 3/8" for the torque spec, 1/2" for the angle torque.

Sounds like the 1/2 is the way to go.

On the same note of using the right torque wrench range for the job..perhaps overthinking this, but doesn't the angle reading start after reading the initial seating torque?

What I'm thinking is if I use a 1/2" with settling torque only 22ftlb(set accurately by my 3/8" bar), then I move to a 1/2" bar to set angle this wouldn't be ideal if it needs to measure the 22ftlb settling reading. Not sure if Snapons work like this.

[Slideways]

Between 60-70 ft-lbs IIRC for the M10s after the 105 degrees. Doing more than that torque off one's back is not easy. 3/8th techangle works for this, but the M11s are only 70 degrees. For the M11s, even a basic angle gauge is fine.

I know someone who said they eye balled the 105 torque sequence lol, and that car has done many track days.

[bavarian3]

Between 60-70 ft-lbs IIRC for the M10s after the 105 degrees. Doing more than that torque off one's back is not easy. 3/8th techangle works for this, but the M11s are only 70 degrees. For the M11s, even a basic angle gauge is fine.

I know someone who said they eye balled the 105 torque sequence lol, and that car has done many track days.

Lol I can believe it. Many folks out there on non-bmw forums seem to even recommend a paint pen for angle without issues.

I'm still undecided as a techangle seems like overkill just to set the angle(I have CDI's for the inital torque), but the analog gauge seems like a hassle upside down. Thinking to just grab an Icon and calling it a day. Accuracy seems to be very good if not better than Snapon.

[Cubieman]

It does suck to buy a $760 1/2" torque wrench for this when the one that is more useful would be the 3/8" for anything besides R.B's, but it can be a big peace of mind for many like myself.

I'm the nervous/paranoid type and justify the 1/2" that way, but as others have said a properly setup dial/breaker bar would likely be just fine, or even just eyeballing/marking.

I have done multiple S85 R.B jobs with the SnapOn 3/8", but ARP bolts are used (50 ft. Lb), they seem to hold up well and have looked at the bearings after 10k miles in 2 instances and they looked damn good.

I may use the stretch gauge tool if I do ARPs on my S85.

I won't use the ARP's for my M3 when the time comes regardless of what they do on S85's. Hell, I may even get the OEM bolts for the S85, that shit would likely take all day though, but is what it is.

[mrgizmo04]

I use the "eyeball" method. Find a comfortable position on the floor on your back, find a consistent starting point and crank the handle to point whatever direction gets you to the angle. Like if you start on cylinder 1 with handle pointing at the radiator, when done cranking if your handle is pointing at the driver side hub then you are in ballpark of 105. As you move down the cylinders ending reference point moves toward the driver door, but angle stays the same, just simple geometry. Analog clock face 2pm is 60 degrees, 3pm is 90, 4pm is 120. Not a popular method .

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