Those who have DIY'd rod bearings, what angle tool would you prefer?

[George Hill]

During the recall I did all of them for my "team" which was about the 15% of our dealerships volume so that would have been 75, maybe over a 100(?) with this angle torque gauge. You 100% don't need a digital angle torque wrench if you are methodical and take your time.

https://www.kctool.com/stahlwille-7380n-torque-angle-gauge-1-2-internal-drive-1-2-external-drive/

With that said nowadays I do use a 3/8" techangle for some and actually still do use that stahlwille for others. It really boils down to how strong you are and how much room you have to work with. If you can't get a full 105* swing then sometimes that longer bar is helpful to reset and do the last 20* (or whatever it is). The other side is the longer bar means you need more room so if you can swing the 3/8" bar you have a better chance of getting the full angle in one go.

[bavarian3]

It does suck to buy a $760 1/2" torque wrench for this when the one that is more useful would be the 3/8" for anything besides R.B's, but it can be a big peace of mind for many like myself.

I'm the nervous/paranoid type and justify the 1/2" that way, but as others have said a properly setup dial/breaker bar would likely be just fine, or even just eyeballing/marking.

I have done multiple S85 R.B jobs with the SnapOn 3/8", but ARP bolts are used (50 ft. Lb), they seem to hold up well and have looked at the bearings after 10k miles in 2 instances and they looked damn good.

I may use the stretch gauge tool if I do ARPs on my S85.

I won't use the ARP's for my M3 when the time comes regardless of what they do on S85's. Hell, I may even get the OEM bolts for the S85, that shit would likely take all day though, but is what it is.

One could argue even a snapon could be defective, or out of calibration, but I guess it's about limiting the possibilities for error so it's fair. $700+ dollars though for one tool one use starts approaching the question if it even makes sense to DIY at that point.

Something else that's also important and not mentioned is operation error such as handling the tool from the handle, moving at the right speed, or even a "warm up" procedure for a torque wrench which I recently learned about.

I use the "eyeball" method. Find a comfortable position on the floor on your back, find a consistent starting point and crank the handle to point whatever direction gets you to the angle. Like if you start on cylinder 1 with handle pointing at the radiator, when done cranking if your handle is pointing at the driver side hub then you are in ballpark of 105. As you move down the cylinders ending reference point moves toward the driver door, but angle stays the same, just simple geometry. Analog clock face 2pm is 60 degrees, 3pm is 90, 4pm is 120. Not a popular method .

Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

Ambitious! I eyeballed/paint pen'd my rear diff bolts, don't think I have the guts for rod bolts =)

During the recall I did all of them for my "team" which was about the 15% of our dealerships volume so that would have been 75, maybe over a 100(?) with this angle torque gauge. You 100% don't need a digital angle torque wrench is you are methodical and take your time.

https://www.kctool.com/stahlwille-7380n-torque-angle-gauge-1-2-internal-drive-1-2-external-drive/

With that said nowadays I do use a 3/*" techangle for some and actually still do use that stahlwille for others. It really boils down to how strong you are and how much room you have to work with. If you can't get a full 105* swing then sometimes that longer bar is helpful to reset and do the last 20* (or whatever it is). The other side is the longer bar means you need more room so if you can swing the 3/8" bar you have a better chance of getting the full angle in one go.

Love hearing someone's experience that has done a ton of these. Also glad I don't have to do 105 degrees. For once Mk20 wins, ha.

[bigjae46]

I got a used 1/2” Techangle on eBay for $200 and then had the Snap on guy calibrate it. Not all snap on trucks can do it…semi painful to find one.

I have an older model. The newer ones have a light bar which makes getting consistent pulls much easier. It takes some effort to get all 5 lugs right at the same torque.

[marksae]

I bought the 1/2" digital torque wrench from Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/12-in-drive-125-250-ft-lb-digital-angle-torque-wrench-64916.html

[bavarian3]

I got a used 1/2” Techangle on eBay for $200 and then had the Snap on guy calibrate it. Not all snap on trucks can do it…semi painful to find one.

I have an older model. The newer ones have a light bar which makes getting consistent pulls much easier. It takes some effort to get all 5 lugs right at the same torque.

Used ebay snapon is 350 or so. Team Torque is $140 for calibration plus shipping costs. Tough sell as it approaches the cost of new.

I bought the 1/2" digital torque wrench from Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/12-in-drive-125-250-ft-lb-digital-angle-torque-wrench-64916.html

What's your opinion of it ? marksae I'm debating whether to go with this or Icon, but thinking Icon since it seems to be a slam dunk on accuracy while the Quinn seems to have some more mixed reviews.

[bigjae46]

Used ebay snapon is 350 or so. Team Torque is $140 for calibration plus shipping costs. Tough sell as it approaches the cost of new.

I think new is $700 but I don't think Snap On is king of torque wrenches.

Torque wrenches are one of those things that we overcomplicate on this forum. If you buy a cheaper torque wrench it can certainly be tested for accuracy. I've seen some semi-scientfic tests, the haven't shown much difference between brands.

[maupineda]

Used ebay snapon is 350 or so. Team Torque is $140 for calibration plus shipping costs. Tough sell as it approaches the cost of new.






What's your opinion of it ? marksae I'm debating whether to go with this or Icon, but thinking Icon since it seems to be a slam dunk on accuracy while the Quinn seems to have some more mixed reviews.

Just spent time on YT checking video comparisons. Quinn was actually pretty accurate for torque and angle. this is what I will go for my RB job

[bavarian3]

Just spent time on YT checking video comparisons. Quinn was actually pretty accurate for torque and angle. this is what I will go for my RB job

This video is interesting:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37Xj...JxdWUgd3JlbmNo

Wondering why this wouldn't apply to all digital torque wrenches though. only have used clickers personally.

[E11even]

As someone that is planning my own RB job in the future. I feel like this discussion gives more reason for using a ARP bolt. I can’t help but pose these questions to others that have more experience with these cars than myself.

1) Do you think there is more potential for error that can be introduced with the torque/angle procedure? Even the actual torque wrench/calibration is in question. Error stacking is something I’m very familiar in my line of work.

2) Measuring the stretch of a bolt is considered reliable and reproducible, not just in RB applications.

3) ARP bolts stretched properly ( not following absolute torque value listed) have acceptable if not less distortion than stock bolts. You can easily find these examples.

4) Are there a plethora of premature bearing failures with ARP bolts? I’m truly curious.

5) The Lang data that no longer is available seems to have scared everyone. Was this with a properly stretched bolt or just absolute torque number?

[marksae]

What's your opinion of it ? marksae I'm debating whether to go with this or Icon, but thinking Icon since it seems to be a slam dunk on accuracy while the Quinn seems to have some more mixed reviews.

Mine has worked without issue the few times I've used it. It's 36" long, so it gives you that extra leverage when working underneath the car with little space. Prior to actually torquing my rod bolts, I verified the angle calibration by practicing on some spare bolts off the car.

[bavarian3]

Just to update as i'm in the middle of the bearing job now. I ended up going with the Icon 1/2" digital torque wrench with angle.

Here's the arsenal I'm using:





My thoughts:
Pulling angle in one sweep is still hard as f even with the 1/2". It took me a couple of tries to nail it(M11 bolts), then I opted to have a helper hold the ratchet head down so I could use my second hand for leverage.

[bavarian3]

As someone that is planning my own RB job in the future. I feel like this discussion gives more reason for using a ARP bolt. I can’t help but pose these questions to others that have more experience with these cars than myself.

1) Do you think there is more potential for error that can be introduced with the torque/angle procedure? Even the actual torque wrench/calibration is in question. Error stacking is something I’m very familiar in my line of work.

2) Measuring the stretch of a bolt is considered reliable and reproducible, not just in RB applications.

3) ARP bolts stretched properly ( not following absolute torque value listed) have acceptable if not less distortion than stock bolts. You can easily find these examples.

4) Are there a plethora of premature bearing failures with ARP bolts? I’m truly curious.

5) The Lang data that no longer is available seems to have scared everyone. Was this with a properly stretched bolt or just absolute torque number?

After this experience, I do think this(stretch gauge + ARP) would be a much more certain way to go.

[JokerElite]

I used a Craftsman 1/2-in digital torque wrench. The space limitation was my only complaint having done it on jack stands. You kind of have to preview the "sweep" before you actually perform the angle procedure to make sure theres enough space and that you have enough leverage to get it in one go.

[aziego]

I am about to do the RB job and had bought ARP bolts/ACL bearings. I watched several videos on this topic and I see some people stretch the bolt while the last one I watched said to tighten the ARP to 50ft-lb without stretching or angle. What is the right method for the ARP bolt? I have a 2005. Thank you.

[Cubieman]

I am about to do the RB job and had bought ARP bolts/ACL bearings. I watched several videos on this topic and I see some people stretch the bolt while the last one I watched said to tighten the ARP to 50ft-lb without stretching or angle. What is the right method for the ARP bolt? I have a 2005. Thank you.

I have done a number of ARP/ACL 's on S85 V10 cars but there is always that "common knowledge" and the Lang article about bore concentricity w/ ARP bolts that keeps me thinking that stock bolts are the way to go on the S54, probably a better choice for the S85 as well.

The instructions generally say (with ARP) to either use a stretch gauge OR use the included ultra torque assembly lubricant, put it on the threads/underside of head and hit 50ft lbs.