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Help diagnosing on throttle clunk after rear end refresh

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    #16
    Very interesting, that could be it. In the last video where he says how it may have been sitting in the wrong way for a period of time, that definitely happened for me. I was supporting the driveshaft on a jack stand for weeks on end while I chipped away at my RACP job. I did not even think about if the joint was angled in a weird way. The center joint may have also been holding up weight and been under stress where it shouldn’t have been.

    Sunday is my day to get under the car and take a look.
    http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
    '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
    '01 M3, Imola/black

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      #17
      Did you ever figure this out? Another member posted a very similar sound. But it’s funny you mention this happened after the full CMP kit install. Which happened with me..

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        #18
        Hey, so yea. Probably good time to update this.

        No, I have not yet resolved the issue. I've had almost zero time to put into this car over the last year but now, I am finally starting to slowly get back on it.

        The driveshaft is off of the car right now. The guibo appears to be fine, I am replacing the center support bearing, and the CV joint appears to be fine. After I put the driveshaft back on and go for a test drive, if the problem is still there, that means the problem is much more of a pain in the ass.

        At that point, I will probably have to drop the rear end back off the car and check the front diff mount. Unless you can install and properly inspect this with everything on the car, in which case PLEASE tell me now so I don't waste a bunch of time LOL.

        It's possible but very unlikely that the sound is a crack or other damage on the RACP. My welder and I did a good job on the repair and I am 99.9% sure we didn't miss anything or create any new damage.

        I heard someone mention that it could be a RTAB related sound, does that add up to you guys? I have CMP monoball RTABs.

        I also heard someone mention that, because I have removed a ton of interior and sound deadening, the sound might be "normal" and I'm just now hearing it for the first time. I feel like that's a stretch because every track guy with a gutted E46 would have the same sound, and they don't.

        All other suspension and brake components are solid.

        Another thing I thought of was maybe a subframe bolt. But the sound only happens when I go on or off throttle. It does not happen over bumps and dips, cornering, or under braking, etc...
        Last edited by Nate047; 04-04-2025, 08:22 AM.
        http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
        '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
        '01 M3, Imola/black

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          #19
          Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
          At that point, I will probably have to drop the rear end back off the car and check the front diff mount. Unless you can install and properly inspect this with everything on the car, in which case PLEASE tell me now so I don't waste a bunch of time LOL.
          You can.

          If you have CMP subframe bushings, you'll need to remove the v brace, the part that it attaches to and section 2 of the exhaust in order to reach the front diff bolt. But no need to drop the entire subframe.

          If your subframe bushings are stock (or stock height), you basically don't need to remove anything. Just slightly bend the plastics out of the way and use a longish extension to reach the bolt.
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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            #20
            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

            You can.

            If you have CMP subframe bushings, you'll need to remove the v brace, the part that it attaches to and section 2 of the exhaust in order to reach the front diff bolt. But no need to drop the entire subframe.

            If your subframe bushings are stock (or stock height), you basically don't need to remove anything. Just slightly bend the plastics out of the way and use a longish extension to reach the bolt.
            Okay awesome, I thought I had read somewhere that it was hard or not doable but I'm glad that’s not the case. I do have the CMP solid aluminum subframe mounts.

            I’ll take a look at this now since the exhaust is off anyway. How will I know if something is amiss, aside from obviously loose or ill fitting bolts etc…?
            http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
            '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
            '01 M3, Imola/black

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              #21
              Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

              Okay awesome, I thought I had read somewhere that it was hard or not doable but I'm glad that’s not the case. I do have the CMP solid aluminum subframe mounts.

              I’ll take a look at this now since the exhaust is off anyway. How will I know if something is amiss, aside from obviously loose or ill fitting bolts etc…?
              You sure heinzboehmer ? I'm pretty sure you have to remove the crossmember too. I had looked at mine a while back and I felt like gizmo had it right.
              3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                #22
                Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
                How will I know if something is amiss, aside from obviously loose or ill fitting bolts etc…?
                I would just put a torque wrench on the bolt. Mark it with something too so that next time you can just check on it visually. Might be worth throwing on a nordlock washer for the peace of mind as well. See this thread for more info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...-on-diff-bolts

                Originally posted by oceansize View Post

                You sure heinzboehmer ? I'm pretty sure you have to remove the crossmember too. I had looked at mine a while back and I felt like gizmo had it right.
                Sorry, yeah that's what I meant by "the part that it attaches to". Should have been more specific.

                The crossmember is what actually gets in the way of a socket, all the other stuff needs to be removed to get to it. But just support the subframe with a jack, remove the crossmember, put the two front fasteners back in and remove jack.
                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                  #23
                  Cool thanks guys, that's not so bad since I already have the car up in the air and a lot of the stuff removed.
                  http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                  '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                  '01 M3, Imola/black

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