Transmission trouble

[Icecream]

This is a great idea to release the pin. Actually the spring is inside the actuator and not inside the tranny, so try to rotate the actuator shaft instead.

Sorry, yeah couldn't remember if it was the transmission side or actuator side. I originally wrote actuator then changed it lol.

[sapote]

It's easy to remember because the actuator controlled by 3 oil pipes, not four. Two pipes for moving the shift rod fore/aft to engage odd and even gears, and one pipe to rotate the shift rod to select the shift gates -- R, 1/2, 3/4, 5/6. It can't rotate the the desired angle with only one pipe unless the cylinder is preloaded with a spring. The spring pushes it to the the 5/6 gate in the default position. Since there is no detent for the shift rod rotation so the engineers chose to use the spring loaded piston and one pipe to push the piston. The fore/aft motion have detents and so the piston needs to have two pipes to overcome the detent forces.

[sapote]

Ok, I will stick with OE, as I thought.

Alright so today I got to the transmission (removed exhaust, driveshaft, and all the stuff under the hood - fan, fan shroud,....). I'm following the steps from ISTA+ (TIS?)

Now I'm blocked at removing the pin from the gear selection rod (in order to remove the gear selector rod and SMG actuator from the back of the trans). There's a C-clip you have to push forward: that's done. The next step is to "drive out retaining pin on selector rod linkage with special tool 23 0 240." I can't get that pin out though, I think I've pushed on it hard enough from the passenger side of the hole. Any advice?

Also, the documentation that I'm following advises removing the intake manifold. I understand that the work done under the hood is to tilt the engine and transmission to access the top screws on the bell housing. It "feels" like this should be achievable with the intake manifold on. What are the "gotchas"?

1. How hard to remove the exhaust bolts?
2. Is the tranny in neutral or gear engaged? If it's in neutral then I don't think the pin is loaded by the spring as Icecream mentioned. Regardless, rotate the actuator shaft CCW rear view a little to release the spring force.
3. No need to remove the intake. You can see all the tranny top bolts by working from the tranny rear after lowered it tail down until the engine touched the subframe. But you should use an engine puller bar (resting on the fender) to hold the front engine up during loosening the tranny bolts -- to avoid the engine swing forward and binding the bolts.

Getting the starter off the bellhousing dowel pin could be a tough job. Don't try to hammer the pin out as this could crack the bellhousing. Use a long extension and a socket (better than just the rounded end of the extension) placed on the back of the starter near the dowel, then hammer it forward to get it off the pin.

[E46m3zcp]

Thanks! It wasn’t hard to remove the exhaust bolts (do you mean the muffler or the flange?). I had just reinstalled it with new hardware when I reinforced the subframe. The first time around it wasn’t easy. The rear flange was so rusty it crumbled and I snapped a stud when removing the muffler.

[E46m3zcp]

Am I pressing on the right side?

[E46m3zcp]

Sorry about the bad orientation. It’s in neutral, I’m pressing on the side that is on the passenger side.

I tried rotating it but it didn’t seem to loosen it at all

[eacmen]

I've never done this myself but the TIS says that you need to push the selector rod into the trans to loosen tension on the pin. Are you able to push the selector rod into the trans at all?

[E46m3zcp]

I saw this. I applied some force but it didn’t budge. Due to the limited space it is hard to apply a lot of force. I stuck a screwdriver in the hole on the actuator rod and pushed, I also tried making a lever and pressing the rod into the tranny. No luck thus far.

[eacmen]

Again I've never done this job myself… but instead of trying to disconnect the actuator from the selector rod can you disconnect the hydraulic lines between the smg pump and the actuator and drop the trans with the actuator attached? Might be a bitch to bleed after but at least you'll get all the old pentosin out of the smg system and replace with fresh fluid.

[sapote]

I saw this. I applied some force but it didn’t budge. Due to the limited space it is hard to apply a lot of force. I stuck a screwdriver in the hole on the actuator rod and pushed, I also tried making a lever and pressing the rod into the tranny. No luck thus far.

The slightly rusted pin seized in the rod I think.
As about pushing the shift rod into the tranny, it might help to disconnect the actuator hydraulic hoses so the piston can move freely when pushing the rod.

[E46m3zcp]

I think my next step will be to remove the output flange to clear up more room and see if I can hit the tool with a hammer.

[eacmen]

I think my next step will be to remove the output flange to clear up more room and see if I can hit the tool with a hammer.

I don't think hammering on the selector shaft is a good idea.

[Irhase46m3]

When i replaced the actuator, i had the tranny sitting on a transmission jack, there is tenssion on the rod and pin, i had to use a hammer and a small screw driver to pop it out - when reinstalling i had to use the same screw driver on one of the ends of the hole where the pin goes to align it (if that makes sense) before inserting the pin, at the time i had no idea about tis, hope this helps.

also, it looks like you have the tranny still mounted onto the car - i dont think that is possible to do as you need more space and proper alignment of the screw driver to pop it out.

[sapote]

I think my next step will be to remove the output flange to clear up more room and see if I can hit the tool with a hammer.

I would use a nut as a spacer place on the opposite side, then use a visegrip and a short pin or small screw to press the said pin out or just get it moving back/fore to loosen.

[George Hill]

Ya that pin sucks to remove in the car.

Maybe I misunderstood, but aren't you removing the complete transmission? If so remove the plenum and disconnect the lines at the hydraulic unit and pull it all as an assembly, then deal with it on the bench.