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Making the throttle reliable...and how quickly can you kill a TPS?

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    #31
    Originally posted by Altaran View Post
    As far as I know Hella is the T1 supplier for these parts.
    I have replaced the front unit twice with aftermarket and failed within 5k kilometers. Last time I used Hella and no issue since 30k kilometers.
    I’d have to look at stock TPS to see who makes it. So if you’re saying Hella makes them for BMW that’s possible. For the record VNE is just a supplier of OE parts they buy. They don’t make stuff. They scratch off the BMW logo and sell.
    6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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      #32
      Originally posted by old///MFanatic View Post
      My bad pedal absolutely put my car into limp mode. It also throws a code pointing to the pedal.
      Thanks for that information. What is the code for a bad pedal (and what software/device)?

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        #33
        I keep a spare TPS in the car. They're light weight, responsible for... 40% of issues on the car? And swapping them out takes either 2 min (front) or an hours (under intake).

        The actuator and arm seems pretty reliable-- I'm willing to roll the dice on those. In 20 years/300,000 s54 miles, never had an issue with one of those (unlike the S85, where I've had failure).

        The pedal you could replace once and carry the original as a spare in your track kit. They do fail, but not like the TPSs. Automatic/SMG cars have a kickdown switch that I find annoying, so if junk yard driving a part, avoid that. There is a mount under it that sometimes gets brittle and fails, so maybe grab a spare that if you're carrying a spare pedal.

        2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
        2012 LMB/Black 128i
        2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

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          #34
          Originally posted by Obioban View Post
          I keep a spare TPS in the car. They're light weight, responsible for... 40% of issues on the car? And swapping them out takes either 2 min (front) or an hours (under intake).

          The actuator and arm seems pretty reliable-- I'm willing to roll the dice on those. In 20 years/300,000 s54 miles, never had an issue with one of those (unlike the S85, where I've had failure).

          The pedal you could replace once and carry the original as a spare in your track kit. They do fail, but not like the TPSs. Automatic/SMG cars have a kickdown switch that I find annoying, so if junk hard driving a part, avoid that. There is a mount under it that sometimes gets brittle and fails, so maybe grab a spare that if you're carrying a spare pedal.
          You can remove the kickdown pretty easily.

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            #35
            Originally posted by Slideways View Post
            You can remove the kickdown pretty easily.
            Yep
            6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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              #36
              Another EML yesterday. I’m done with this… I’m going to throw parts at it.

              I really don’t understand this problem if it’s simply the throttle position sensors. They shouldn’t fail in just a few thousand miles - even with track time.

              Today I installed a new throttle actuator (with new TPS), a new pull rod, and new Genuine BMW TPS up front. I know, I’m just throwing parts at it…but I have 172K miles. So, if my assumption that a new throttle actuator is manufactured at the same quality as the OEM parts, then in theory I’m just replacing things that would likely wear out over time and use.

              Other concerns: I’d also like to add that there’s a fair amount of front to back play on the throttle operating rod. This shouldn’t be an issue, but I wanted to mention it. Ther is also slop on the short plastic pull rods (x6) for each throttle body. Maybe I should replace them…even though the original main pull rod didn’t seem noticeably different from a new one.

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                #37
                Originally posted by OldRanger View Post
                Thanks for that information. What is the code for a bad pedal (and what software/device)?
                78 [120] EDK: potentiometer, signal comparison
                78 [120] EDK: potentiometer, signal comparison​
                PaSoft.
                At least for me these were the codes and can confirm it was my pedal and not my TPSs.
                6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by old///MFanatic View Post
                  78 [120] EDK: potentiometer, signal comparison
                  78 [120] EDK: potentiometer, signal comparison​
                  PaSoft.
                  At least for me these were the codes and can confirm it was my pedal and not my TPSs.
                  The EDK values can be viewed in INPA.

                  Do the separate TPS values also appear in INPA?

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