Originally posted by Altaran
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Making the throttle reliable...and how quickly can you kill a TPS?
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6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode
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I keep a spare TPS in the car. They're light weight, responsible for... 40% of issues on the car? And swapping them out takes either 2 min (front) or an hours (under intake).
The actuator and arm seems pretty reliable-- I'm willing to roll the dice on those. In 20 years/300,000 s54 miles, never had an issue with one of those (unlike the S85, where I've had failure).
The pedal you could replace once and carry the original as a spare in your track kit. They do fail, but not like the TPSs. Automatic/SMG cars have a kickdown switch that I find annoying, so if junk yard driving a part, avoid that. There is a mount under it that sometimes gets brittle and fails, so maybe grab a spare that if you're carrying a spare pedal.
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
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Originally posted by Obioban View PostI keep a spare TPS in the car. They're light weight, responsible for... 40% of issues on the car? And swapping them out takes either 2 min (front) or an hours (under intake).
The actuator and arm seems pretty reliable-- I'm willing to roll the dice on those. In 20 years/300,000 s54 miles, never had an issue with one of those (unlike the S85, where I've had failure).
The pedal you could replace once and carry the original as a spare in your track kit. They do fail, but not like the TPSs. Automatic/SMG cars have a kickdown switch that I find annoying, so if junk hard driving a part, avoid that. There is a mount under it that sometimes gets brittle and fails, so maybe grab a spare that if you're carrying a spare pedal.
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Originally posted by Slideways View PostYou can remove the kickdown pretty easily.
6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode
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Another EML yesterday. I’m done with this… I’m going to throw parts at it.
I really don’t understand this problem if it’s simply the throttle position sensors. They shouldn’t fail in just a few thousand miles - even with track time.
Today I installed a new throttle actuator (with new TPS), a new pull rod, and new Genuine BMW TPS up front. I know, I’m just throwing parts at it…but I have 172K miles. So, if my assumption that a new throttle actuator is manufactured at the same quality as the OEM parts, then in theory I’m just replacing things that would likely wear out over time and use.
Other concerns: I’d also like to add that there’s a fair amount of front to back play on the throttle operating rod. This shouldn’t be an issue, but I wanted to mention it. Ther is also slop on the short plastic pull rods (x6) for each throttle body. Maybe I should replace them…even though the original main pull rod didn’t seem noticeably different from a new one.
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Originally posted by OldRanger View PostThanks for that information. What is the code for a bad pedal (and what software/device)?
78 [120] EDK: potentiometer, signal comparison
PaSoft.
At least for me these were the codes and can confirm it was my pedal and not my TPSs.6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode
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Originally posted by old///MFanatic View Post78 [120] EDK: potentiometer, signal comparison
78 [120] EDK: potentiometer, signal comparison
PaSoft.
At least for me these were the codes and can confirm it was my pedal and not my TPSs.
Do the separate TPS values also appear in INPA?
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