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    Well, I did and didn't dodge a bullet

    For YEARS, when I turned on the car, at idle and low RPMs, it would make this metallic rattling sound. It eventually went away during the drive and didn't always happen. I figured it was a loose exhaust hanger or something, and didn't think much of it.

    Recently I felt what I can only describe as when you go over rumble strips coming from the center/rear of the car. Googling said it might be the center support bearing, the guibo, or something else. I have a second vehicle, so I decided to take it down to the indy shop I use and have them take a look at it.

    Got the call today and... fuck.

    The u-joints on the driveshaft are seized on one side. The rattling I've been hearing all these years? It was the driveshaft out of balance due to the seized u-joints. This also took out the center support bearing. The guibo/flex disc is also cracked and needs replaced.

    The shop is quoting me $3500 to replace the driveshaft and parts.

    Ugh...

    I just spent $1200 replacing the fuel pump.

    Does that quote seem reasonable to you folks? Anywhere else I can source a driveshaft other than Turner or FCP Euro?

    Thanks.

    #2
    Used driveshafts are dirt cheap and it sounds like these guys are trying to give you the shaft. You can get a good driveshaft for a couple hundred bucks. Don't get scammed.

    You need to find a new shop. These dudes are con artists which is unfortunately very common.
    Instagram: @logicalconclusion

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      #3
      Originally posted by CybrSlydr View Post
      For YEARS, when I turned on the car, at idle and low RPMs, it would make this metallic rattling sound. It eventually went away during the drive and didn't always happen. I figured it was a loose exhaust hanger or something, and didn't think much of it.

      Recently I felt what I can only describe as when you go over rumble strips coming from the center/rear of the car. Googling said it might be the center support bearing, the guibo, or something else. I have a second vehicle, so I decided to take it down to the indy shop I use and have them take a look at it.

      Got the call today and... fuck.

      The u-joints on the driveshaft are seized on one side. The rattling I've been hearing all these years? It was the driveshaft out of balance due to the seized u-joints. This also took out the center support bearing. The guibo/flex disc is also cracked and needs replaced.

      The shop is quoting me $3500 to replace the driveshaft and parts.

      Ugh...

      I just spent $1200 replacing the fuel pump.

      Does that quote seem reasonable to you folks? Anywhere else I can source a driveshaft other than Turner or FCP Euro?

      Thanks.

      The fuel pump is stupid easy. You could have saved yourself 700 to 800 bucks. Driveshaft is also easy and you can save yourself thousands if you DIY it.

      You're getting screwed.
      Last edited by oceansize; 06-26-2024, 05:25 PM.
      3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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        #4
        Very high but I guess the price might makes sense if you’re getting all brand-new OE BMW parts (driveshaft, guibo, CSB) but again, still high. You can grab a driveshaft off of eBay for <$300 with guarantee, throw a guibo and CSB from FCP for another $350ish and then labor at your favorite mechanic and you should be good to go.
        ‘02 TiAg Coupe

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          #5
          I think we also need to keep in mind OP's location. I agree price is high, but I'm also sure good shops aren't as plentiful as NJ and Cali.
          /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

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            #6
            Glad I asked you folks!

            Any well-known reputable folks you've used on eBay? Anything to look for in the images to make sure the driveshaft isn't a lemon?

            Comment


              #8
              Originally posted by 01SG

              This might apply for something difficult and car specific like rebuilding the s54. Replacing the driveshaft is no different than doing it on any other RWD car. That shop is a bunch of crooks.

              I've replaced a few on jack stands in the garage. It's not a difficult job. Even with a brand-new, $1,900 drive shaft, $3,500 is up there.
              All the shafts I've found, new OEM, are almost $2k (Turner/FCP). Even buying it new for that much, I figured $1500 in labor was a questionably high.

              Comment


                #9
                Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post
                I think we also need to keep in mind OP's location. I agree price is high, but I'm also sure good shops aren't as plentiful as NJ and Cali.
                This might apply for something difficult and car specific like rebuilding the s54. Replacing the driveshaft is no different than doing it on any other RWD car. That shop is a bunch of crooks.

                I've replaced a few on jack stands in the garage. It's not a difficult job. Even with a brand-new, $1,900 drive shaft, $3,500 is up there.​

                Comment


                  #10
                  Originally posted by sbay View Post
                  You can grab a driveshaft off of eBay for <$300 with guarantee, throw a guibo and CSB from FCP for another $350ish and then labor at your favorite mechanic and you should be good to go.
                  $350ish? Even that estimate seems kinda high. Would expect around $200ish using OE.
                  6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

                  Comment


                    #11
                    Originally posted by CybrSlydr View Post
                    Looks good to me…anything similar should be fine.
                    ‘02 TiAg Coupe

                    Comment


                      #12
                      Originally posted by old///MFanatic View Post
                      $350ish? Even that estimate seems kinda high. Would expect around $200ish using OE.
                      Thanks, you’re right, typed too quick. Correction $250*

                      Febi guibo goes for about $100, OE support $150.
                      ‘02 TiAg Coupe

                      Comment


                        #13
                        OP that’s on the higher side of a quote. Granted quality shops often only use new Genuine BMW Parts and charge you list price. Then book labor on top of that.
                        If you can find a shop that’ll use a remanufactered/used drive shaft and OE parts you supply you can save quite a bit. But this is how shops make money and also saves them extra time when a customer’s part doesn’t fit and adds labor headaches to a job. So understand they have their reasons.
                        6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

                        Comment


                          #14
                          Originally posted by old///MFanatic View Post
                          $350ish? Even that estimate seems kinda high. Would expect around $200ish using OE.
                          On FCP Euro, it's $272 including the butyl tape for the CSB they recommend.

                          Click image for larger version

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                            #15
                            Would it be better to get the Meyle flex disc that comes with the bolts and nuts?

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