Removing RTABs - anyone ever break the CTA tool?

[Maxhouse97]

Was trying to get the job done today, literally waiting for the UPS guy to deliver my brand new tool. Delivered a bit late but got to work immediately. Lined up the tool to make sure it was interfacing correctly with the arm and bushing. Started cranking, cranking, and … pop. The threaded shaft broke. WTF. Called FCP and they should be shading me a new one.

Had anyone ever had this happen? Do I need to put some heat into the arm to get the bushing out?

[Slideways]

I almost had this happen when trying to remove RTABs from a friend's slightly rusty E36. The threaded rod started to bend. It turns out that the outer aluminum flange of the old style RTAB had rusted to the trailing arm and would not allow the RTAB to move. Once the outer lip was chiseled toward the center of the RTAB, it easily came out with the RTAB tool. Heat can also help.

[Gt4]

You need to put grease on the threaded rod.

**EDIT**And also you should remove them with the tool on the outside of the trailing arm, not inside. When installing new bushing, put grease on them and clean the RTAB housing.

[bmwfnatic]

You need to put grease on the threaded rod. And also you should remove them with the tool on the inside of the trailing arm, not outside. When installing new bushing, put grease on them and install them from the inside and pull them to the outside of the trailing arm.

Are you sure about this? What makes you say that.

The trailing arm has a chamfered edge on the outside, to aid with installation I assume.

[Gt4]

Are you sure about this? What makes you say that.

The trailing arm has a chamfered edge on the outside, to aid with installation I assume.

I tought they were chamfered on the inside? That why I said that.

Anyway, just need to remove them on chamfered side cause corrosion might build on the aluminum of the bushing making them harder to pull.

[Maxhouse97]

Interesting that you say to put the tool on the inside. FCP article has you put it on the outside (if we are talking the same thing, see pic). Also matches most of what I’ve seen on YouTube. I’m trying to do this on the car, so putting the tool on the outside is the only viable option (quick project between track weekends).

My car has little to no rust, so it can’t be that. It does have 140k miles though.

I guess I will try some heat and grease on the shaft, although I’m reluctant to heat too much in case I can’t get it off and run the bushing. Hopefully it was a bad tool.

[Maxhouse97]

So someone reached out and said they had the same thing happen with the CTA tool. They mentioned returning and getting a MIS one. I don’t see that but do see the Schwaben tool. Hard to tell but looks a little more robust. Any recommendations?

[cobra]

They must be using some shitty threaded rod if it's breaking like that. Usually the friction in the threads is the limiting factor.

[Maxhouse97]

Here is the MIS link, I’m trying to contact them to purchase.

http://mistools.net/epages/ff151668-d785-4907-a892-ddab19de43ab.mobile/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ff151668-d785-4907-a892-ddab19de43ab/Products/1&Locale=en_US

[bmwfnatic]

I tought they were chamfered on the inside? That why I said that.

Anyway, just need to remove them on chamfered side cause corrosion might build on the aluminum of the bushing making them harder to pull.

Brand new BMW trailing arms from which I removed the stock bushes in order to install CMP spherical ones, you can quite clearly see the chamfer here, it is on the outside.

[Halftim3]

Did the bushing move a little? Once you break it loose it should be easy the rest of the way, it looks like the longer rod of the two broken pieces in your photo would work, if so maybe try again?

[old///MFanatic]

Yes the chamber is on the outside. Actually the early factory bushings had a lip on them (with cutouts). They could only be removed from the outside. And thus only installed outside to inside.

[old///MFanatic]

As for breaking the tool’s threaded rod. You need to oil the rod if it’s giving a hard time. Back it out and re-engage. The MIS tool uses a high grade rod, not sure one used in the CTA brand. But yep doing it wrong and forcing it can break it. I’m sure they sell replacement rods. Might do that instead of junking the whole tool. That’s why some places that rent the tool take full deposits. People doing it wrong can break the threaded rod.

*Edit just looked up the CTA tool..”Made in Taiwan”. Enough said.

[bavarian3]

lol just the washers, never busted the rod like that.

try freezing the rtabs, and use lube. i used circolight alternative called IPC P-80

[Gt4]

Threaded rod is M10x1.5. Broke mine not too long ago and my RTAB tool was bought in 2008 and did a lot of cars with it. I just bought a M10x1.5 threaded rod and cut it in desirable length. I have spare now!