Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Adjustable swaybar end link recommendation

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    For my MCS I use, E28 swaybar links as they were what I had laying around but work great.

    Make sure at ride height and at any lock situation your links aren't binding or at weird opposing angles.

    Also, they can come loose again after install so check the fasteners. I love marking stuff with paint pen. They also have real stuff for it.
    If you have been following our instagram page for a while you know we are fan of torque seal. I fell in love with this product while going through aircraft maintenance school.  Torque seal allows you to give a quick visual inspection on nuts and bolts you have torqued. If you take your car to the track, where your comp
    Last edited by samthejam; 03-31-2026, 10:01 AM.
    Build Thread:
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...-new-pb-at-msr

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by Projecte46m3 View Post

      Good info!! I need to cal them and ask if they can offer custom lengths..I'm not sure what you guys are doing but MCS/JRZ suspension need very short endlinks..the standard run of the mill links are too long.
      Yes, thank you. I'm the one who figured this out.
      He will do custom lengths -- just contact him through his ebay store the total length you need. For my MCS 2WR, I had him make 200mm length, but you will want to check if this works for your car.

      Comment


        #33
        I ended up just using BW 10-11.5” adjustable links they suggested for the MCS 2WR, no issues noticed during install with length, but that’s a far cry from 200mm


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
          I ended up just using BW 10-11.5” adjustable links they suggested for the MCS 2WR, no issues noticed during install with length, but that’s a far cry from 200mm
          Yeah, which is why I said to double check, but he said he needed shorter than stock, as did I.
          I suspect the link mount location for MCS might depend on from where you buy them. I got mine from Anze, not Bimmerworld.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by fattycharged View Post
            I ended up just using BW 10-11.5” adjustable links they suggested for the MCS 2WR, no issues noticed during install with length, but that’s a far cry from 200mm


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            BW sold me their 9.75-10.75" end links for my 1WNR kit. I have them as short as they go and the bar is pretty parallel with the ground.

            Question - did you do anything to counter hold when tightening the jam nuts to stop the shaft from rotating? They don't have a spot to put a wrench on like most other products; I don't know why they would design them like that.

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by prostcfc View Post

              BW sold me their 9.75-10.75" end links for my 1WNR kit. I have them as short as they go and the bar is pretty parallel with the ground.

              Question - did you do anything to counter hold when tightening the jam nuts to stop the shaft from rotating? They don't have a spot to put a wrench on like most other products; I don't know why they would design them like that.
              That part is annoying, my links have a point to hold, but I find it easier to offset the link in one direction, then tighten.

              It takes some time as you'll likely mess around with how much you need to (offset) rotate each link before finding the spot where when you tighten it lines up properly.
              2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
              Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
              Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

              OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/TCK Vorshlag/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
              RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

              2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
              Instagram

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

                Did you try disconnecting them and taking a short drive to isolate the issue? Make sure the endlink rod threads that allow the length adjustment are tight. This was my issue.
                after a hectic few weeks, I finally got around to removing the right side endlink where most/all of the noise was coming from, and took it for a short drive - not a creak from anywhere.

                When I installed these I was skeptical, because the rod ends were so tight I couldn't move them by hand. It's been 15 years since I used adjustable endlinks, and I know things are supposed to be tight, but I don't recall rod ends being so tight you can't move them. I think that's where my noise is coming from, if enough force is applied to the rod end it WILL move, but that's the popping sound I'm hearing.

                So, the question is do I just ask for a refund from FCP or have them send me another set of SPLs?

                Comment

                Working...
                X