My car is a 2000 323ci, which recently started to intermittently exhibit a no crank no start behaviour. This happened a few times but always started after turning the key a few times, But, finally one time it would not start at all. In desperation I tried to bump start the car but that was unsuccessful. So I resigned myself to have the car towed home for further investigation. As a last gasp attempt I turned the key in the ignition one last time and the car fired right up So I drove it home and have been scouring the Internet watching every video
I can find on no crank no start, and reading every posting I can find. So far no of these have helped me find the source of my issue. I should also note that this has been going on now for several weeks and it seems to me that the starting is becoming less frequent.
So far I have;
1. Checked the battery voltage (always 12.6 V or greater, 3 year old battery with clean posts)
2. Checked for battery drainage associated with a poor ground strap- looks good
3. Probed the starter posts, 12V is always present on the center post, when tested during a no start condition there was 0 voltage on bottom right post
4. Probed all the lines out of the ignition switch and observed voltage (12V) on them when the key was turned
5. Removed the EWS module and inspected it for visible signs of failure and cleaned the contacts and connector with electronic cleaning fluid.
6. I attempted to run the test with a fuse across the two large slots (as seen on many Youtube videos) but, noticed that pin 2 is not populated on my connector.
7. Instead jumped between the black wire and the black wire with a blue stripe. When the key was turned to start the starter engaged and turned the car over but the car did not start.
8. Tried the two original factory keys (#4 & 5) with no difference in behavoir. (Note: during this whole process I have observed both keys (#4 & 5) start the car)
9. Connected the INPA software and observed the following (see screenshots below)
10. Have seen the clutch switch toggle between yes and no when the clutch is engaged
11. Have wiggled the EWS connections and position around and have not seen the INPA information change.
12. Recorded the voltage at the EWS pin 1 = 0 V, and pin 3 = 12.4 V when the ignition is turned to start
13. Observed that the car will beep if when the key is left in the ignition and the door is opened
14. Tested the resistance of the ignition ring = 2.7 ohms
15. Observed a nice 126 KHz waveform on an oscilloscope at the iginition ring
16. Purchased PA Soft and captured the live data between the keys and the EWS
So here is where I am at.
I beleive that the battery and grounding issues have been eliminated.
Testing of the EWS and ignition modules show that the starter is functioning and that the ignition moduleand antenna are good.
Both the PA Soft and the INPA data seem to indicate that there is a key issue but, I find it hard to beleive that two keys could fail at the same time. Alternatively the EWS could be corrupted somehow but I am not sure how to confirm that.
What have I missed? What should I do next? I am stalled and need your help.
Thanks in advance for your help!
I can find on no crank no start, and reading every posting I can find. So far no of these have helped me find the source of my issue. I should also note that this has been going on now for several weeks and it seems to me that the starting is becoming less frequent.
So far I have;
1. Checked the battery voltage (always 12.6 V or greater, 3 year old battery with clean posts)
2. Checked for battery drainage associated with a poor ground strap- looks good
3. Probed the starter posts, 12V is always present on the center post, when tested during a no start condition there was 0 voltage on bottom right post
4. Probed all the lines out of the ignition switch and observed voltage (12V) on them when the key was turned
5. Removed the EWS module and inspected it for visible signs of failure and cleaned the contacts and connector with electronic cleaning fluid.
6. I attempted to run the test with a fuse across the two large slots (as seen on many Youtube videos) but, noticed that pin 2 is not populated on my connector.
7. Instead jumped between the black wire and the black wire with a blue stripe. When the key was turned to start the starter engaged and turned the car over but the car did not start.
8. Tried the two original factory keys (#4 & 5) with no difference in behavoir. (Note: during this whole process I have observed both keys (#4 & 5) start the car)
9. Connected the INPA software and observed the following (see screenshots below)
10. Have seen the clutch switch toggle between yes and no when the clutch is engaged
11. Have wiggled the EWS connections and position around and have not seen the INPA information change.
12. Recorded the voltage at the EWS pin 1 = 0 V, and pin 3 = 12.4 V when the ignition is turned to start
13. Observed that the car will beep if when the key is left in the ignition and the door is opened
14. Tested the resistance of the ignition ring = 2.7 ohms
15. Observed a nice 126 KHz waveform on an oscilloscope at the iginition ring
16. Purchased PA Soft and captured the live data between the keys and the EWS
So here is where I am at.
I beleive that the battery and grounding issues have been eliminated.
Testing of the EWS and ignition modules show that the starter is functioning and that the ignition moduleand antenna are good.
Both the PA Soft and the INPA data seem to indicate that there is a key issue but, I find it hard to beleive that two keys could fail at the same time. Alternatively the EWS could be corrupted somehow but I am not sure how to confirm that.
What have I missed? What should I do next? I am stalled and need your help.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Comment