Originally posted by bavarian3
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Karbonius CSL Roof – Tips for DIYers
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FYI...Amazon sells Buck Panel Bond that comes in a 400ml cartridge for $65. I had about 1/3 of the cartridge left over after the roof.Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
That's surprising...seems most videos suggest they only used one(200ml). Good callout. Consumables are adding up $$.
One other thing I noticed is many videos (Tek, IND, AJ Hartman) brush the adhesive on to the perimeter, but then don't go back and put another bead.
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Tempting. I would be happy to use this for the roof, but I need to bond the roof bow as well so will probably just go with 3M 07333.Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
FYI...Amazon sells Buck Panel Bond that comes in a 400ml cartridge for $65. I had about 1/3 of the cartridge left over after the roof.🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
Build thread: link
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Mine went really well, finished the project last August and was able to enjoy the car for the rest of the season before putting it away.Originally posted by bavarian3 View PostThanks for the great DIY. I've been parsing through it in detail. Also curious how yours went Heirforce1
I'm sure I'll have more questions but for now:
-Why not use spring clamps(on the front and rear)? They seem much easier to use. Regarding clamps, my understanding is something strong is obviously needed, but not too strong as to let the panel bond do the work. Thoughts here?
-I see in Tek Motorsports video he used expanding foam, (3m 08463) to fill the gaps where you used windshield adhesive. Since this is just for nvh dampening it seems like a good solution, but maybe unruly to work with. Wondering if you considered this, and how the results were filling the gap with your windshield adhesive method.
ended up using some spring clamps on the front and rear, but I think a part of using the C clamps is getting the tension you want. If you can use a lot of spring clamps to get some decent clamping force, it should be fine, but the goal would be consistency of clamping force to make sure the front and back are evenly bonded.
The one thing I suggest is using dynmat or something equivalent on the under side of the carbon roof after installation. I trimmed and rolled dynamat onto the underside, and after everything was reassembled, there is 0 NVH, rattles, creaks, or any noises. It feels like a OEM piece from a modern BMW.
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Thanks Heirforce1 . So you used them in addition to c clamps? I ordered some of these in 6" but they seem a bit small. With that said, I'm not so sure significant clamping force is desired...Originally posted by Heirforce1 View Post
Mine went really well, finished the project last August and was able to enjoy the car for the rest of the season before putting it away.
ended up using some spring clamps on the front and rear, but I think a part of using the C clamps is getting the tension you want. If you can use a lot of spring clamps to get some decent clamping force, it should be fine, but the goal would be consistency of clamping force to make sure the front and back are evenly bonded.
The one thing I suggest is using dynmat or something equivalent on the under side of the carbon roof after installation. I trimmed and rolled dynamat onto the underside, and after everything was reassembled, there is 0 NVH, rattles, creaks, or any noises. It feels like a OEM piece from a modern BMW.
🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
Build thread: link
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My roof is officially on order(will take 4wks). Currently collecting tools and consumables. Went with 3m 08609 for the bows(nvh reduction), 3m 07333 for the roof perimeter and center bow(en lieu of welding). Skipping the primer and thinking to just touch up the bows with paint where the original noise reducing padding gets removed(the 08609 apparently adheres fine to paint).Originally posted by SQ13 View PostI’m sure there’s no harm in adding dynomat, but I’ll state my experience anyways. I didn’t add anything like that to my roof, and I have zero NVH issues. I think the key is to properly apply windshield adhesive on the front, middle, and rear bows.🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
Build thread: link
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You’re welcome to borrow my one time use tools. Just pay for the cost of shipping and cost of tools, and I’ll refund the tool cost once I get them back in good shape.Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
My roof is officially on order(will take 4wks). Currently collecting tools and consumables. Went with 3m 08609 for the bows(nvh reduction), 3m 07333 for the roof perimeter and center bow(en lieu of welding). Skipping the primer and thinking to just touch up the bows with paint where the original noise reducing padding gets removed(the 08609 apparently adheres fine to paint).
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Appreciate that! I figure i'll just sell the double cartridge gun then keep the rest of the tools.Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
You’re welcome to borrow my one time use tools. Just pay for the cost of shipping and cost of tools, and I’ll refund the tool cost once I get them back in good shape.
Do you recall what size rivets you used?🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
Build thread: link
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Can I get in on this? The 2 part gun I have doesn't work with the 08115 cartridges. Would probably be sometime after May once it warms up here.Originally posted by SQ13 View Post
You’re welcome to borrow my one time use tools. Just pay for the cost of shipping and cost of tools, and I’ll refund the tool cost once I get them back in good shape.
Mike02 M3 Titanium Silver / Black
11 Tundra SuperWhite / Black
16 X5 Imperial Blue Brilliant Metallic / Dakota
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Correct, I used them in addition to the c clamps. But I agree with you, I don't believe the clamping force is as important as even clamp force distribution. There is a certain amount of clamp force you would need, but its not as great as you'd expect.Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
Thanks Heirforce1 . So you used them in addition to c clamps? I ordered some of these in 6" but they seem a bit small. With that said, I'm not so sure significant clamping force is desired...
I really enjoyed doing mine. If you were closer to me I would offer to lend a hand. Also suggest getting decent rivet drill bits, or a few back ups. I went through 3 bits (used cheaper amazon ones) but it worked out well in the end. The rivet chisel was also extremely important and made light work of the rivets after I had them drilled out. The roof basically lifted itself off.
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