Hose clamp hitting throttle

[ac427]

Yes - you’re right. Sorry about that

No worries. You can test the throttle actuation and TPS with DIS to take some of the guess work out of the equation.

[audipwr1]

Yes - you’re right. Sorry about that

[ac427]

I removed the unit that does exhaust gas recirc on warm up, plugged the hole with a aftermarket plug and HTE said they disabled it in software - no code for it

Would be odd for the pedal TPS to randomly break

Same with actuator right? For it to just kaput at same time of all of this?

Any mechanical components of TB that people have seen get damaged during these installs that would be smart for me to eye?

Going to pull the airbox and crap all out again and look it all over - but not sure Id spot something being bent or out of place because I don't know what "good" looks like in it - will check air rail bolts

By EGR, i think you mean the SAP pump, it pumps air into the exhaust to warm up the cats on start up.

[audipwr1]

I removed the unit that does exhaust gas recirc on warm up, plugged the hole with a aftermarket plug and HTE said they disabled it in software - no code for it

Would be odd for the pedal TPS to randomly break

Same with actuator right? For it to just kaput at same time of all of this?

Any mechanical components of TB that people have seen get damaged during these installs that would be smart for me to eye?

Going to pull the airbox and crap all out again and look it all over - but not sure Id spot something being bent or out of place because I dont know what "good" looks like in it - will check air rail bolts

[Slideways]

Ok the journey sadly continues here. To A/B test this I just totally removed the hose clamps - this is still happening.


Hit full throttle - there is a moment then it begins to shudder and hesitate, then I get the "e gas" codes which I believe is TPS sensor and TPS position dont agree.


At this point it must be one of two? things

1. the HTE tune itself I put in is causing some sort of issue?
2. I somehow damaged a portion of the throttle system when I installed the CSL intake (or the hose clamps that were on there did this) causing the throttle to catch and struggle when I hit full throttle?

Any other ideas?

The changes were install CSL intake, delete EGR, install HTE tune, replace vanos solenoid, replace both cam position sensors between when the car was working perfectly and now.....

What do you mean by "delete EGR"?

You can always reflash the tune and reset adaptations to rule out a software issue.

There could be an issue with one of the three TPSs - pedal, TPS on the throttle bodies, TPS on the throttle actuator.

If all three TPSs are good, then your throttle actuator is faulty.

The only other thing that might mechanically limit the throttle bodies is one of bolts being loose for the air rail or something being stuck in/near the throttle bodies.

[audipwr1]

Ok the journey sadly continues here. To A/B test this I just totally removed the hose clamps - this is still happening.


Hit full throttle - there is a moment then it begins to shudder and hesitate, then I get the "e gas" codes which I believe is TPS sensor and TPS position dont agree.


At this point it must be one of two? things

1. the HTE tune itself I put in is causing some sort of issue?
2. I somehow damaged a portion of the throttle system when I installed the CSL intake (or the hose clamps that were on there did this) causing the throttle to catch and struggle when I hit full throttle?

Any other ideas?

The changes were install CSL intake, delete EGR, install HTE tune, replace vanos solenoid, replace both cam position sensors between when the car was working perfectly and now.....

[ac427]

I have used a pair of medium sized needle nose pliers with the small teeth to remove and install the stock clamps multiple times. If you clock them correctly, you don't have to remove the air rail to remove or install them.

I've done it that way too it is just easier with the rail removed.

[Slideways]

I have used a pair of medium sized needle nose pliers with the small teeth to remove and install the stock clamps multiple times. If you clock them correctly, you don't have to remove the air rail to remove or install them.

[ac427]

hoping for some guidance.

Installed turner CSL box - all hose clamps have the worm drives in the 12 o'clock position - yet at 50% throttle I am getting the egas error code and the car starts shuddering (at first I thought it was a bad plug or something, but INPA points to the error 230 egas)

It's intermittent too - not every time will the throttle code throw

I don't see where they are hanging up the throttle actuators - any hints?

Better hose clamp?

The CSL clamps are only 7mm low-profile clamps. Which is probably why they were chosen by BMW - 6x 11617831745 CSL Airbox pipe clamps.

They can be placed so as not to fowl and mechanical linkage. Although in the six or seven times i have removed and refitted the airbox, they have never fouled anything mechanically. Mine are set to a more 10 or 11 O'Clock position. Mostly because i have been leaning over the car on a sloping driveway when installing them.

To gain proper access to the clamps for installation, remove the auxiliary air pipe beforehand, rather than straining like i did, when i first refitted my airbox.

The non-compound action Oetiker pliers are good enough and are the actual BMW supplied tool for the job, cheaper than the HIP2000 which i also have

Oetiker CSL pliers - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275999308532

[Avedis]

Neither of those pliers are the right ones, those are all for the single use Oetiker "ear" clamps which are used on the airbox side of the boot.

The throttle body side of the airbox uses clamps made by Oetiker also, but from their "low profile" catalog, these are reusable and require a plier that has 2 pointy tips that go inside the little holes.
Removal is probably possible with another type of plier, but installation will be difficult.

The original plier for this has some tiny teeth that slide perfectly into the holes, see image:


However those are quite expensive, especially for the amount of use they would get as these clamps really don't exist anywhere else on this car, not on many other BMW's either as far as I am aware.

The more budget friendly variant that you want is the Lisle 3500 -> https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-B.../dp/B0002SREB8

I just did this install a few months ago. I can confirm the Lisle 3500 paired with 63mm boot clamps (11617831745) is a correct combination.

[bmwfnatic]

Neither of those pliers are the right ones, those are all for the single use Oetiker "ear" clamps which are used on the airbox side of the boot.

The throttle body side of the airbox uses clamps made by Oetiker also, but from their "low profile" catalog, these are reusable and require a plier that has 2 pointy tips that go inside the little holes.
Removal is probably possible with another type of plier, but installation will be difficult.

The original plier for this has some tiny teeth that slide perfectly into the holes, see image:


However those are quite expensive, especially for the amount of use they would get as these clamps really don't exist anywhere else on this car, not on many other BMW's either as far as I am aware.

The more budget friendly variant that you want is the Lisle 3500 -> https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-B.../dp/B0002SREB8

[Ramps]

This video shows how to remove and reinstall the clamps. Also a link for a tool you can use in the description.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G5WWLeY9V8

[elbert]

You can google "bmw hose clamp tool" for cheaper versions.

Yep, those pliers are made by Knipex (10 99 "ear clamp pliers"). You can get them from amazon for $33.
These are also used for one-time use Oetiker clamps, like for the power steering hoses.

For the resuable throttle body clamps for the intake boots, I use these pliers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012S61AM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[oceansize]

FYI: DIS at this link: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...418#post208418

Key point, holds at WOT until told not to.

[bmwfnatic]

I guess chance I damaged something when installing all of this though I dont see any immediate issues

I think this is the issue as i had the hose clamps in worse spots and the car really got upset and killed the power - i moved them all to 12 oclock position and now its internment issue with similar error codes

Is there a way to use inpa to actuate throttle positions?

Unfortunately not, DIS and presumably ISTA can do it, and if you are a bit tech savvy you can probably figure it out in Tool32 without installing any of the aforementioned.

But how about a brick on the throttle pedal?